Why Honeymoon in Algiers
Algiers rewards couples who like cities with layers. In a single afternoon you can move from the seventeenth century Ketchaoua Mosque to the Palais des Raïs, a cluster of restored Ottoman houses by the water, then along Rue Didouche Mourad's cafes and bookshops. The architecture tells the story of the place better than any museum.
The setting helps. Almost every hill offers a view across the bay. The light at dusk turns the white facades gold. Algerians are often delighted to meet Americans. Conversations start easily in cafes. With Roman Tipasa an hour or so along the coast, Algiers gives you history, sea air and a feeling of being somewhere few of your friends have been.
When to Go
April through June and September through October are best. Highs run from the upper 60s into the 80s °F, the sea is pleasant by June and the Roman sites are green and flowered in spring.
July and August are hot and humid, with highs in the low 90s °F. The beaches west of town fill with families. Winter is mild, with highs around 60°F, but the city gets most of its rain between November and February. November is the wettest month. Ramadan brings quiet days and lively nights. Many cafes close until sunset, so check its dates before booking.
Where to Stay
- Hydra and the hills: the historic Hotel El Djazair, once the Saint-Georges, sits in terraced gardens above the city and has hosted generals, writers and royalty. It is the romantic classic.
- Hamma and the Jardin d'Essai: the Sofitel Algiers Hamma Garden overlooks the botanical garden and the bay, with the metro close by.
- City center: smaller hotels near the Grande Poste put you within walking distance of the Casbah and the waterfront, though standards vary.
- West coast at Sidi Fredj and Zeralda: beach and marina hotels for a slower few days.
Ask for a sea-view room in the hills. The view from the terrace is half the pleasure of Algiers.
Romantic Things to Do
Hire a licensed local guide to lead you through the Casbah, the UNESCO-listed old town where stairways and covered passages connect Ottoman palaces, mosques and tiny workshops. Late afternoon, head up to Notre Dame d'Afrique, a nineteenth century basilica on the Bouzaréah heights. Watch the sun sink over the bay.
Spend a morning in the Jardin d'Essai, a botanical garden of avenues lined with plane trees, palms and giant ficus that was laid out in the 1830s. Visit the vast Djamaa El Djazair mosque, whose minaret dominates the eastern skyline. Then give a full day to Tipasa: wander the Roman amphitheater and basilicas above the waves, find the Camus memorial stone and continue to the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania.
Getting There and Around
Houari Boumediene Airport lies about 20 kilometers east of the center. There are no nonstop flights from the US, so expect one connection through a European hub such as Paris or Frankfurt, or through Istanbul. Agree on a taxi fare before you set off, or have your hotel arrange a car.
The city has a metro line and a tram, both cheap and handy for the waterfront, Hamma and the eastern districts. For the hilly old town, walking is the only option. Yassir, a local ride-hailing app with fixed cash fares, is convenient for crossing town. For Tipasa, hire a driver for the day rather than driving yourselves through traffic and checkpoints.
Food and Drink
Algiers eats hearty and well spiced. Try rechta, fine handmade noodles in a white chicken broth that is the city's signature dish. Chorba frik, a soup of cracked green wheat, anchors Ramadan evenings. On the street, look for karantika, a baked chickpea custard sold in squares with cumin and harissa. Then there is mhajeb, flatbreads folded around a tomato and onion filling.
Fresh fish and grilled sardines are the reason to head to the small fishing harbors west of the city. For dessert, makroud and honey-soaked pastries go well with mint tea or strong coffee. Algerian wine and beer are served in good hotels and many city restaurants.
Honeymoon Tips
- Ask your hotel to book a Casbah guide a few days ahead and take the walk in the cool of the morning.
- Carry euros or dollars in cash and exchange at banks or hotels. Do not use street changers, which is illegal.
- Dress modestly in the Casbah and around mosques, covering shoulders and knees.
- A few phrases of French or Arabic will open doors, since English is uncommon.
- Keep your passport or a copy with you, as police checks are routine.
- Register your trip with STEP before you leave.
Friday is the main day of prayer and the city is very quiet until mid afternoon, which makes it a good morning for a long breakfast at the hotel.