Why Honeymoon in Colchagua
Colchagua is the most romantic way to experience Chilean wine. The valley is wide and sunny, ringed by low hills, with quiet roads lined with poplars and fields of fruit trees between the vineyards. The best tastings happen in small groups or privately, often with the winemaker or a family member pouring.
The Apalta area, a horseshoe of steep hillsides on the north side of the valley, is home to some of the country's most celebrated reds, especially rich Carménère, Syrah and Cabernet blends. Many wineries there have striking architecture and views worth the visit alone.
It is also relaxing. After the travel day from the US, a few nights of good food, lazy pool afternoons and no fixed schedule set the tone for the rest of the trip.
When to Go
Colchagua has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, damp winters.
The best months are March and April, during harvest. The vines are heavy with fruit, wineries are busy with picking and crushing and the weather is warm without the peak summer heat. Santa Cruz celebrates with its Fiesta de la Vendimia, a harvest festival on the main plaza with wine stands, food and folk music, usually in early March.
October and November are also lovely, with green vines, flowering gardens and fewer visitors. December through February is hot, often in the 90s, though nights cool down nicely and pools get a lot of use.
Winter, from June to August, brings rain and bare vines. Some restaurants reduce hours, though cozy fireside tastings and lower hotel rates have their own appeal.
Where to Stay
Viña Vik, about an hour's drive from Santa Cruz in the neighboring Millahue valley, is the showpiece: a hilltop hotel with a shimmering titanium roof, rooms decorated by different artists and a hillside infinity pool looking over its vineyards and lakes. The estate makes its own wines from the surrounding vineyards, which you can taste in a striking modern winery.
The Clos Apalta Residence at Lapostolle has a handful of private casitas set among the vines, with tastings in a dramatic winery built into the hillside. It is small and intimate.
In Santa Cruz, Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza sits on the main square with colonial-style architecture, a spa and pools, making it easy to walk to restaurants. Casa Silva also runs a hotel in a historic estate house beside its polo field.
Smaller guesthouses and B&Bs scattered through the valley offer good value. Rent a car if you choose one. As a rough, approximate guide, the top winery lodges run well over $1,000 a night for two, while Santa Cruz hotels and valley B&Bs cost a fraction of that.
Romantic Things to Do
Build your days around two or three winery visits rather than racing through five. Montes, with a winery designed on feng shui principles and Gregorian chant playing to its barrels, is a fun first stop. Lapostolle's Clos Apalta winery descends several floors into the granite hill.
Viu Manent offers horse-drawn carriage rides through its vineyards and a well-loved restaurant. Several wineries offer horseback rides followed by tastings, a lovely way to see the valley.
The Museo de Colchagua in Santa Cruz is a large private museum with an eclectic collection ranging from fossils and pre-Columbian ceramics to vintage cars. It makes a good break between tastings.
For a change of scene, drive about an hour and a half west to Pichilemu, a laid-back surf town with long beaches and wild Pacific sunsets.
Getting There and Around
Colchagua is about two and a half hours by car from Santiago's airport, along Route 5 and then west through the valley. Many couples rent a car at the airport. Roads are paved and straightforward.
Driving after tastings is the catch. Chile has strict drunk-driving laws with very low legal limits. If you plan to drink, book a driver or a tour for winery days. Hotels can arrange private drivers. Several companies in Santa Cruz offer full-day guided wine tours that handle the logistics.
A private transfer from Santiago is another option, especially if you arrive tired after an overnight flight. Combine Colchagua with Valparaíso and the Casablanca Valley by driving between them in about three hours.
Food and Drink
Winery restaurants are the heart of the food scene. Lunches are long, multi-course affairs that pair the estate's wines with dishes built on local ingredients: lamb, beef, river fish, fresh cheese and seasonal vegetables. Expect grilled meats and empanadas alongside more modern plates.
Carménère is the grape to know, with soft tannins and notes of red pepper, spice and dark fruit. Also try Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from Apalta, plus Malbec and Cabernet Franc from smaller producers. Some wineries now make fresh whites and rosés from cooler coastal plots.
In Santa Cruz, simple restaurants serve Chilean comfort food such as pastel de choclo, a baked corn and beef pie. Cazuela, a hearty meat and vegetable stew, is another staple. In summer, a mote con huesillo, the sweet drink of wheat berries and dried peaches, is a refreshing treat.
Honeymoon Tips
Book tastings ahead. Most wineries take reservations online and the best ones limit group sizes, especially on weekends.
Mention your honeymoon. Wineries often arrange a private tasting, a picnic among the vines or a special bottle for couples celebrating.
Pace yourselves. Two or three tastings a day is plenty, especially in summer heat. Hydrate, eat well and use the spit buckets without embarrassment.
If you want to ship wine home, ask your hotel or the winery about options. Most travelers simply pack a few bottles in checked luggage, wrapped well.
Finally, mix in a non-wine day. A horseback ride, a visit to Pichilemu or an afternoon by the pool makes the next round of tastings feel fresh.
