Why Honeymoon in Tbilisi
Tbilisi has character in every corner. Churches, a mosque and a synagogue stand within a few blocks of each other in the old town. Courtyards hide grapevines and laundry lines. Street musicians play Georgian polyphony in the evening.
It is also a great food and wine city at prices well below Western Europe. You can eat khinkali dumplings in a cellar for a few dollars or book a tasting menu built around Georgian ingredients. Wine bars pour bottles from small producers you will never find at home.
Then there are the baths. Booking a private sulfur bath room for an hour, with a hot pool, a cold plunge and an optional scrub, is one of the most memorable things couples do here.
When to Go
April through June and September through October are the best months. Days are warm, evenings are made for terraces and the hills around the city are green or golden.
July and August are hot, often in the 90s. The old town's stone streets hold the heat. Plan sightseeing for mornings and evenings and take a long lunch in between. Many locals leave for the mountains or the coast in August.
Winter is fairly mild by mountain standards, with January averages a little above freezing and occasional snow. It is a good season for the baths and long dinners, though the rest of the country is harder to explore. May and June tend to be the wettest months, so pack a light rain jacket.
Where to Stay
Sololaki and the old town are the classic choices. Here you are a short walk from the baths, the cable car and dozens of restaurants. Boutique hotels in restored 19th century houses often come with balconies and courtyards.
Vera, a leafy neighborhood north of the center, is home to Stamba Hotel and Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, two well-known design hotels in a former Soviet publishing complex. They suit couples who like dramatic interiors, good cocktail bars and a buzzy scene.
Vake is a quieter residential area with parks and upscale cafés, a short taxi ride from the old town. Abanotubani, right by the baths, is atmospheric but can be busy with visitors during the day. Wherever you stay, ask for air conditioning in summer.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a private room at one of the sulfur bathhouses in Abanotubani, ideally in the evening. Chreli Abano, with its blue mosaic façade, is the most photographed.
Ride the cable car from Rike Park to Narikala fortress for views across the domes and rooftops, then walk down past the botanical garden and the small waterfall tucked into the gorge.
Cross the Bridge of Peace, a curving glass and steel footbridge over the Mtkvari River, after dark when it lights up.
Take the funicular to Mtatsminda park on the city's highest ridge for a ride on the ferris wheel and a drink with the whole city below.
On a Saturday, browse the Dry Bridge market for Soviet curios, old jewelry and vintage enamel.
Getting There and Around
Tbilisi International Airport is about 11 miles southeast of the center. Most flights from US connections land late at night or early in the morning. A pre-booked hotel transfer or a Bolt ride is easiest; the trip takes roughly 25 to 30 minutes outside rush hour.
The old town is best explored on foot, though it is hilly and the cobbles are uneven. Wear comfortable shoes.
For longer hops, Bolt is cheap and reliable. The two-line metro is simple and useful for reaching some neighborhoods. Buses and metro accept a rechargeable transit card.
For day trips to Mtskheta, Kakheti or Kazbegi, a private driver is the most comfortable option. Many hotels can arrange one.
Food and Drink
Start with khinkali, soup dumplings you hold by the twisted top, bite and sip before eating. Leave the top on the plate; locals count them. Try khachapuri in its Adjarian form, a boat of bread filled with cheese, butter and an egg yolk you stir in at the table.
Other dishes to look for include pkhali (vegetable pastes with walnuts) and badrijani (eggplant rolls with walnut paste). Chakapuli is a lamb stew with tarragon and sour plums.
Tbilisi's wine bar scene is excellent. Many pour qvevri wines from small family producers, including amber wines made from Rkatsiteli and Kisi. Ask for recommendations and taste side by side. Finish with churchkhela, walnuts strung and dipped in grape must, sold all over the city.
Honeymoon Tips
Book private bath rooms in advance, especially on weekends and evenings. Check what is included, since scrubs and massages often cost extra.
Avoid political demonstrations, which have been frequent around Parliament on Rustaveli Avenue. Check local news before heading into that area.
Many restaurants add a service charge of about 10 percent to the bill. Look before you tip.
Plan your last night with your flight time in mind. Many departures leave between 3 and 6 a.m., so a short stay near the old town with an airport transfer booked makes the exit smoother.
Carry some lari in small notes for markets, taxis and churches, where donation boxes are common.
