At a glanceFour nights in a villa hotel on Lake Como, three among the Barolo vineyards of the Langhe in Piedmont, then three on the Italian Riviera at Portofino, flying in and out of Milan. It suits couples who love food, wine and polished hotels and want a short drive between stops. Go in May, June or September; October suits wine lovers.
Milan Malpensa has nonstop flights from several US cities. Within three hours of it sit three of northern Italy's most romantic places. This route strings them together with short drives: Lake Como for villa gardens and boat rides, the Langhe in southern Piedmont for Barolo and Barbaresco, then the Italian Riviera at Portofino for a harbor village and cliff paths through the pines.
Each stop has a different mood. Lake Como is refined and unhurried. The Langhe is about long lunches, cellar visits and vineyard views from hilltop villages. Portofino is small, glamorous and best after the day boats leave. Together they make a honeymoon for couples who care about what is on the plate and in the glass as much as the view.
You rent a car only for the middle of the trip, from Lake Como through the wine hills to the coast. The first and last legs work by transfer and train. Fly in and out of Milan Malpensa (MXP) on a simple round trip.
The route
- Lake ComoItaly · 4 nights
- LangheItaly · 3 nights
- PortofinoItaly · 3 nights
- Best months
- May, June and September, with October for the harvest and truffles
- Trip length
- 11 days
- Budget
- About $500–1,200 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, with Portofino and the grand Lake Como villas above that (approximate)
Day by day
Days 1–4: Lake Como
Land at Milan Malpensa (MXP). A private transfer to Cernobbio or Moltrasio takes roughly an hour; to Bellagio or Tremezzo it is closer to an hour and a half. Check in and spend the afternoon by the water. Day 1 needs no plan.
On day 2, take the ferries between Bellagio, Varenna and Tremezzo. See Villa Carlotta's gardens, then Bellagio's lanes early or late, when day trippers thin out. On day 3, visit Villa del Balbianello near Lenno, whose terraced gardens hang over the water. Then ride the funicular from Como to Brunate for views toward the Alps on clear days.
Day 4 is the slow day. Swim from the hotel lido, float in the pool and save your energy for golden hour, when a private tour on a vintage wooden motorboat glides past villas, chapels and waterfalls. That ride is the romantic moment of the lake. For the splurge, stay at Passalacqua in Moltrasio, a composer's villa with 24 rooms, or Villa d'Este in Cernobbio, the lake's grande dame.
Days 5–7: The Langhe
Pick up a rental car in Como or have one delivered, then drive about two and a half hours southwest to the Langhe. Alba is the practical base; La Morra, Monforte d'Alba and Barolo itself give you the vineyard views. Casa di Langa, in Cerretto Langhe with terraces facing the Alta Langa hills, is a polished choice between the Barolo and Barbaresco zones.
On day 6, visit two cellars at most: a historic Barolo house in the morning and a small family producer after lunch. Many require appointments, so let your hotel book them. Hire a driver if you are both tasting. In between, see the Cappella del Barolo near La Morra, a small chapel painted in bright colors by Sol LeWitt and David Tremlett. Then visit the WiMu wine museum in the castle at Barolo.
On day 7, take a sunrise hot-air balloon flight over the vines if the weather allows. That quiet drift is the romantic moment of the Langhe. In autumn, join a trifolau and his dog on a truffle hunt, then finish with a tasting menu dinner in Alba.
Days 8–10: Portofino
Drive about two hours south to the Ligurian coast on day 8. Return the car at Genoa airport or keep it parked at your hotel, since the road into Portofino is narrow and parking is scarce. Santa Margherita Ligure is the practical base with a train station. Staying in Portofino itself is the splurge.
On day 9, walk from Portofino to San Fruttuoso, a Benedictine abbey in a cove with no road access. The path through the woods takes about two hours each way, so walk one direction and ride the ferry back. Snorkelers can look for the bronze Christ statue underwater off the abbey's beach in calm weather.
On day 10, swim at the small cove of Paraggi, then book a private boat for a half day along the cliffs of the marine reserve. At golden hour, climb from the harbor to the Church of San Giorgio and Castello Brown, then on to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo. Aperitivo on the piazzetta after the day boats leave is the romantic moment of the coast.
Day 11: Back to Milan
Take the train from Santa Margherita Ligure–Portofino station to Milan, roughly two to two and a half hours, then continue to Malpensa by the airport express. A private car from Portofino to Malpensa takes about two and a half to three hours. Book a flight that leaves in the afternoon or later.
If you would rather not rush, spend your last night in Milan. A walk past the Duomo and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in the evening gives you a taste of the city. The airport train in the morning is easy. Couples connecting through Europe can fly from Genoa (GOA), about 45 minutes to an hour from Portofino by car. Pack focaccia from a Santa Margherita bakery for the train.
Getting Between Stops
Use a transfer or train from Malpensa to Lake Como. Trains run often from Milan to Como and on the eastern shore toward Varenna. Ferries do the rest around the lake.
Rent a car only for the Langhe. Lake Como to Alba takes about two and a half hours and the Langhe to the Ligurian coast about two. A car is close to essential in the wine hills, where trains are limited. Roads are winding but well maintained.
In Portofino, do without a car. Local buses run from Santa Margherita along the coast road and ferries connect Portofino, Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Camogli and San Fruttuoso from spring to autumn. Returning the rental at Genoa airport and taking a taxi to your hotel is the easiest arrangement. Italy's drink-driving limits are strict, so hire a driver for Langhe tasting days.
Where to Stay
On Lake Como, Villa d'Este in Cernobbio is a 16th-century cardinal's villa with a pool floating on the lake. Passalacqua in Moltrasio is a smaller, more private villa with 24 rooms. Both sit on the southwestern shore, an hour or so from Malpensa. Bellagio, Tremezzo and Varenna have smaller hotels at the scenic center of the lake.
In the Langhe, Casa di Langa in Cerretto Langhe is our pick for a polished wine-country stay. Il Boscareto Resort and Spa near Serralunga d'Alba has vineyard views and a full spa. Agriturismi on working wine estates cost less and often have pools.
In Portofino, Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, is a former monastery in the olive groves above the harbor and one of the most expensive hotels in Italy. Its sister, Splendido Mare, sits right on the piazzetta. Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli have good hotels for less.
Advertisement
When to Go
May, June and September are the best months for the full route. Lake Como's gardens are lush, the Langhe is green and calm and the sea at Portofino is warm enough for swimming from late May. April brings camellias and azaleas to the lake and wisteria to the Portofino headland, though the water is cold.
September and October are the headline months in the Langhe, with the grape harvest and the start of white truffle season. Liguria gets heavy rain in autumn and some Portofino hotels close by the end of October, so early October is the latest for this route.
July and August are hot and busy on the lake and the Riviera, with day boats filling Portofino's harbor around midday. Many lake hotels close from November to March.
Budget and Booking
This is one of Italy's more expensive routes. Plan on roughly $500–1,200 a night for two in good boutique to luxury hotels. The Lake Como villa hotels and Splendido run well above that in peak season, while Langhe agriturismi and Santa Margherita hotels cost less. These figures are approximate.
Book Lake Como and Portofino first, then the Langhe. In September and October, top Langhe hotels and restaurants fill early around the Alba truffle fair weekends. Reserve the Lake Como boat tour and Langhe winery visits before you leave home.
Other costs: the airport transfer, the rental car with any one-way fee, a driver for one tasting day, the balloon flight, private boats and a nightly tourist tax at each hotel.
Make It Shorter or Longer
For a week, spend four nights on Lake Como and three in Portofino, skipping the Langhe. The train from Como to the Riviera via Milan takes about three hours and you do not need a car at all.
With two weeks, add two or three nights in the Cinque Terre after Portofino. It is on the same rail line south of Santa Margherita. You could also add a night or two in Franciacorta, the sparkling wine region between Milan and Lake Iseo, before Lake Como.
Couples who want more lakes can add Lake Maggiore, about an hour from Malpensa, where the Borromean Islands and their gardens sit just offshore from Stresa.
Honeymoon Tips
Visit Bellagio early or late in the day and check villa opening days, since some close on certain weekdays or need timed tickets. Book the private boat on Lake Como for late afternoon light.
In the Langhe, book two or three winery visits a day at most and mix big names with small family producers. Many cellars close for lunch. Pack a light sweater for cellars and cool evenings.
The San Fruttuoso path is a real hike with climbs and uneven ground, so wear proper shoes and carry water. Portofino's lanes are steep and cobbled, so leave heels for dinner at the hotel. Pack covered shoulders and knees for both of you for churches along the way.
FAQPlanning this trip
Can we combine Lake Como and the Italian Riviera?
Yes. Portofino is about three hours from Lake Como by train via Milan or by car, so the two pair easily. Adding the Langhe in between turns a long transfer into a wine stop and breaks the trip into short drives. The whole route flies in and out of Milan Malpensa (MXP), which has nonstops to several US cities.
Is the Langhe worth it if we are not wine experts?
Yes. The landscape is the reward: rolling vineyards, hilltop villages and castles, with views from La Morra across the Barolo hills. The food is a big draw, from tasting menus in Alba to simple trattorias. Most cellars welcome curious visitors and your hotel can choose friendly family producers for you.
Should we stay in Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure?
Staying in Portofino itself is a splurge and the village is at its best in the evening after the day boats leave. Santa Margherita Ligure is the practical base, with grand seafront hotels, a train station and easy buses or boats into Portofino. Many couples stay in Santa Margherita and book one special dinner in Portofino.
When is truffle season in the Langhe?
White truffle season starts in autumn. The Alba International White Truffle Fair runs on weekends from autumn into early December and November brings the most prized truffles. If you travel in October, you get both the harvest and truffles, though some Portofino hotels close by the end of the month.
Do we need a car for the whole trip?
No. Use transfers, trains and ferries for Lake Como and Portofino. Rent a car only for the Langhe, picking it up when you leave the lake and returning it at Genoa airport when you reach the coast. That avoids parking headaches in both of the busier places.
