Getting Between Stops
Paris CDG to Lyon is a TGV of about two hours from the airport station. Book ahead for the best fares.
In Lyon, you will not need a car. The metro, trams and funiculars are simple and the center is walkable.
Rent a car when you leave Lyon. Lyon to Annecy is about an hour and a half by car. Annecy to Chamonix is also about an hour and a half. Chamonix to Geneva Airport is about an hour and 15 minutes.
In Chamonix, free local buses and the regional train link the villages and lift stations. Most hotels provide a guest card for free transport.
If you prefer not to drive, trains connect Lyon and Annecy in about two hours. Shared shuttles run from Annecy and Geneva to Chamonix.
Where to Stay
In Lyon, Villa Florentine sits on the slope below Fourvière with views across the city. Cour des Loges fills a group of Renaissance houses around a glass-roofed courtyard. The InterContinental Lyon Hotel Dieu is set in a grand former hospital on the Rhône.
On Lake Annecy, Talloires is the most romantic spot. Auberge du Père Bise, a famous family-run hotel and restaurant, sits right on the water. The Abbaye de Talloires occupies a former Benedictine abbey with gardens down to the lake. In Annecy town, the Impérial Palace is a grand hotel by the lake, while Les Trésoms sits on the hillside with a spa.
In Chamonix, Hameau Albert 1er is a long-running, family-owned hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant and a pool facing Mont Blanc. Hôtel Mont-Blanc is a historic central hotel with a spa. For privacy, rent a chalet with a hot tub.
When to Go
Late June to mid-September is the season for this route. Every lift runs, trails are clear of snow and Lake Annecy is warm enough for swimming. June and September are the sweet spots, with fewer crowds than July and August.
July and August are busy at Annecy, with crowded beaches and higher hotel rates. Book well ahead.
Avoid May, October and November, when the high lifts in Chamonix close for maintenance and many hotels shut.
From mid-December to April, Chamonix is a serious ski resort. A winter version of this route works for skiers, with Lyon for food, Annecy for a quiet lake stay and Chamonix for the slopes, but you lose the swimming and hiking. Lyon's Fête des Lumières around December 8 is a beautiful time in the city.
What It Costs
The French Alps are moderately expensive in summer. As an approximate guide, boutique hotels in Lyon cost about $200 to $400 a night for two. On Lake Annecy, lakeside hotels in Talloires run about $350 to $700, with Auberge du Père Bise around $700. In Chamonix, good hotels cost about $250 to $500.
The TGV from Paris, a rental car and tolls add moderately.
The things worth paying for are a bouchon dinner in Lyon, a lake-view room in Talloires, a tandem paraglide over Annecy and a multiday lift pass in Chamonix covering the Aiguille du Midi and Montenvers. Lyon is better value for food than Paris, so plan your big dinners there.
Tips for the Two of You
The Aiguille du Midi summit is at 12,605 feet. Take it slowly at the top, drink water and come down if either of you feels dizzy or short of breath. Bring warm layers and sunglasses, since it is cold and very bright even in summer.
Pack layers for the whole trip. Mountain mornings are cool even when Annecy is hot.
Lake Annecy's water is cold early in summer. Get in slowly and swim close to shore.
Annecy's lake road is busy on summer weekends. Use the bike path or the lake boats for short trips.
The route gives each of you something. One of you might paraglide while the other cycles, or one might hike to Lac Blanc while the other takes a spa morning. Meet for lunch. Chamonix's restaurants book up in summer, so reserve dinners ahead.
Make It Shorter or Longer
With a week, skip Lyon and fly straight into Geneva, spending three nights in Annecy and three in Chamonix.
With 12 or 13 days, add two nights in Paris at the start, taking the TGV from Gare de Lyon to Lyon. Or add Burgundy, about an hour and 45 minutes from Lyon by car, for two nights of wine tasting in Beaune.
Another option is a two-night extension to the Italian side of Mont Blanc in Courmayeur, through the tunnel, or to Switzerland's Zermatt, about three hours or more from Chamonix by car or train.
Couples who want a beach finish can add three nights on the French Riviera, flying from Geneva to Nice in about an hour. If you love Provence, drive south from Lyon instead for a slower lavender-country ending.