Tulum and Holbox in 7 Days

Jungle, cenotes and candlelight, then an island with sand for streets.

7 days2 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Three nights on Tulum's beach road and three on Holbox, a car-free island off the Yucatán's northern tip, linked by a road transfer and a short ferry. It suits couples who want style and food first, then barefoot quiet. November to April is best, with June to September for whale sharks off Holbox.

Tulum and Holbox make a 7-day honeymoon in two moods. Tulum is the Riviera Maya with its shoes off: boutique hotels built from palapa and driftwood along a sandy beach road, a Maya city on a cliff above the sea and some of the best restaurants on Mexico's Caribbean coast. Holbox is quieter still, a long, skinny island with no paved roads where you get around on foot, by bicycle or in a golf cart.

You spend three nights on Tulum's beach road for ruins, cenotes and candlelit dinners. Then you transfer north across the peninsula to the port of Chiquilá and take a ferry of about 25 to 30 minutes to Holbox. There you wade across sandbars, watch flamingos in the lagoon and eat lobster pizza on the plaza.

The transfer day is long, so the trip keeps the other days light. Go from November to April for dry weather and clear water. From June to September, whale sharks feed off Holbox and you can snorkel beside them.

The route

  1. TulumMexico · 3 nights
  2. HolboxMexico · 3 nights
Best months
November to April; June to September for whale sharks
Trip length
7 days
Budget
About $300–1,200 a night for two in boutique hotels, more at Tulum's top villas (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: Tulum

Fly into Tulum International Airport (TQO), about 30 to 45 minutes from the beach road, or into Cancún (CUN), about 1.5 to 2 hours north. Book a private transfer either way. Check in, borrow bikes from your hotel and ride the beach road at golden hour before dinner.

On day two, be at the Tulum archaeological site when it opens, before the heat and the tour buses. The walled city stands on cliffs about 40 feet above a turquoise cove. If the beach below is open, bring swimsuits. In the afternoon, swim at Gran Cenote, where clear water fills the caverns and turtles drift in the sunlit pools. Book a temazcal, a traditional Maya sweat lodge ceremony led by a local guide, for the early evening. It is a shared ritual many couples remember.

Make day three a boat day in the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-listed area of lagoons and mangroves just south of the hotels, where dolphins and turtles are common. Tonight is your splurge in Tulum. Kin Toh at Azulik serves dinner in woven nests above the jungle canopy. Reserve well ahead.

Day 4: Across the Peninsula to Holbox

This is your travel day. A private transfer from Tulum to Chiquilá takes roughly three and a half to four hours, mostly on quiet highways through the jungle. Leave after breakfast so you arrive in daylight. Some couples break the drive with a stop in Valladolid for a late breakfast or a swim at a cenote along the way.

At Chiquilá, leave any rental car in a guarded lot and board one of the passenger ferries that cross to Holbox throughout the day. The ride takes about 25 to 30 minutes. Golf cart taxis wait at the dock to take you to your hotel.

Once you have checked in, walk the sand lanes into town, past murals and small restaurants. Find a rooftop or a beach bar on the western side for sunset over the Gulf. Keep dinner simple. Share a lobster pizza on the plaza, the island's best-known dish. Do not overthink it.

Days 5–7: Holbox

Start day five early. At low tide, walk east from town toward Punta Mosquito, wading across the sandbars where the water stays knee deep far from shore. Flamingos sometimes feed at the edge of the lagoon. Go before the day trippers arrive from Cancún. In the afternoon, take a three islands boat tour to Isla Pájaros for birds, Isla Pasión for a swim and the Yalahau freshwater spring on the mainland side.

From June to September, swap that tour for a morning swimming beside whale sharks. Choose an operator that limits swimmers per shark and forbids touching. On a moonless night, join a guided kayak trip near Punta Cocos to see bioluminescent plankton light up with every stroke. It is the romantic moment of Holbox.

Keep day six for nothing at all: hammocks, a long swim and a candlelit dinner on the sand at your hotel. On day seven, take an early ferry back to Chiquilá and a transfer of about two to two and a half hours to Cancún. Book a flight that leaves in the afternoon.

Getting Between Stops

Fly into Tulum (TQO) or Cancún (CUN), which has nonstop flights from dozens of US cities. Flights take roughly two hours from Miami or Houston and about four from New York.

The Tulum to Holbox leg is the long one. A private transfer to Chiquilá takes about three and a half to four hours. A rental car works if you are comfortable driving in Mexico, though you leave it in Chiquilá while you are on the island. Ferries from Chiquilá run throughout the day and cross in about 25 to 30 minutes. Small charter planes fly to Holbox's airstrip from Cancún and Playa del Carmen, saving time at a much higher price.

Fly home from Cancún. Allow about three hours from your Holbox hotel to the airport, plus the usual check-in time. An early ferry keeps the day relaxed.

Where to Stay

In Tulum, stay on the beach road for a honeymoon. Azulik Tulum is the town's best-known design statement, a kid-free collection of treehouse-style villas built by hand from wood and vine above the sea, with outdoor tubs and hanging beds. Be Tulum, on the quieter southern stretch of the beach road, is a polished boutique hotel. Tulum town and the Aldea Zamá neighborhood have cheaper stays, though you lose the beach.

On Holbox, look at the beachfront east of town. It is a short walk from the plaza, close enough for dinner and far enough to sleep well. Casa Las Tortugas and Hotel Mawimbi are two long-running small hotels on this stretch. The western side toward Punta Cocos is quieter but needs a golf cart.

Ask about air conditioning, hot water and generator backup on both stops, since standards vary even at higher prices.

When to Go

November to April is the classic window for both stops. Days are dry and sunny, nights are cooler and the sea is at its calmest and clearest. It is also peak season, so book well ahead for Christmas, New Year and March. Winter can bring the occasional norte, a cold front that pushes wind and choppy water into Holbox for a day or two.

From late May or June to September, whale sharks gather off Holbox, with the best odds in July and August. It is hot and humid then, with afternoon storms. Sargassum seaweed can also reach the Caribbean coast from late spring into summer, often affecting Tulum more than Holbox.

September and October are the peak of hurricane season. Holbox is low and exposed, so avoid those months or buy travel insurance.

Budget and Booking

Tulum is the expensive half. As an approximate guide, good beach road boutique hotels often run about $350 to $800 a night for two in high season, with Azulik's oceanfront villas often higher. Holbox is gentler, with good small hotels often about $200 to $450 a night.

Book the Tulum hotel first, then Holbox, then the transfers. Reserve Kin Toh, the temazcal and any whale shark tour before you leave home. Tulum's best tables fill weeks ahead in winter.

Carry pesos. Smaller restaurants, cenotes and Holbox's golf cart taxis often take cash only. ATMs on the island can run dry. Bring more than you think you need and keep a reserve for the last day. Ask both hotels about honeymoon touches. Many will set up a beach dinner or a room surprise.

Staying Comfortable and Safe

Mosquitoes and tiny sand flies come out at dusk on both stops, especially after rain. Pack strong repellent and a long-sleeve layer each. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Mexico before you book.

Use reef-safe sunscreen and biodegradable repellent. Many cenotes require it and ask you to shower before swimming. Swim with a buddy in the cenotes and follow staff instructions on where to enter.

Tulum town has had nightlife-related crime. At night, stay with the dinner crowd, use taxis your hotel calls for you and skip late beach parties if they are not your scene. Holbox is relaxed and walkable after dark, though the sand lanes are unlit in places, so carry a phone light. Pack light, soft bags, since you will carry them onto the ferry.

Make It Shorter or Longer

For a five-day trip, choose one stop. Tulum alone gives you ruins, cenotes and the food scene. Holbox alone gives you three or four slow days, which is the island's sweet spot. Avoid trying both in five days, since the transfer eats too much time.

For nine or ten days, add two nights at Bacalar, about two and a half hours south of Tulum, for its lagoon of seven blues, or two nights in Valladolid on the way to Holbox to visit Chichén Itzá early in the morning. Both break the long drive.

Couples who want more comfort can add two nights at a full-service resort farther north on the Riviera Maya after Tulum, then fly home from Cancún without the Holbox leg.

FAQ

Planning this trip

How do we get from Tulum to Holbox?

Book a private transfer to the port of Chiquilá, which takes about three and a half to four hours, then take a passenger ferry of about 25 to 30 minutes to Holbox. You can also drive and leave your car in a guarded lot in Chiquilá. Charter flights are faster but much pricier.

Should we do Tulum or Holbox first?

Tulum first works best for most couples. You fly into Tulum or Cancún, do the busier sightseeing early and finish with slow days on Holbox. If your flight home leaves very early, reverse the order so you end near the airport in Tulum.

When can we swim with whale sharks?

Whale shark tours from Holbox usually run from late May or June to September, with the best odds in July and August. Choose an operator that limits swimmers per shark and forbids touching. Tours take most of the morning and often include a snorkel stop and lunch.

Is Holbox too rustic for a honeymoon?

Not if you choose well. The island has no paved roads or giant resorts. Some hotels have basic utilities. Beachfront boutique hotels east of town offer comfortable rooms, good food and hammocks on the sand. Ask about air conditioning and hot water before you book.

How much cash should we bring?

More than you expect, especially for Holbox. Many small restaurants, golf cart taxis and tour operators there take cash only. ATMs can also run out. Carry pesos for both stops and keep a reserve for the ferry and transfer on your last day.

Stops on this route

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