Kempinski Hotel Ishtar is the most elegant resort on Jordan's Dead Sea shore and the one to book if you want the float, the mud and a serious spa in one place. Its design borrows from ancient Babylon: tiered terraces, hanging greenery and water everywhere, with nine pools cascading toward a private beach on the lowest point on Earth. In the late afternoon the sun drops behind the hills across the sea and the water turns silver and pink.
The resort is big, with 345 rooms and suites plus Royal Villas, but the layout of terraces and pools spreads people out. The spa is the star, with 20 treatment rooms, a Dead Sea pool, heated lounges and what the hotel calls the largest hydro-pool on the Dead Sea.
It suits couples combining Petra, Wadi Rum and Amman who want two or three nights of pure rest in the middle. It works for a short spa break too. It is not intimate. Families and weekend visitors from Amman add bustle, especially on Fridays. Couples wanting a small boutique stay will not find one on this coast; book a quieter weekday and a sea-view room instead.
Highlights at a glance
- Nine pools terraced down to a private Dead Sea beach
- A spa with 20 treatment rooms and a large hydro-pool
- Panoramic rooms with included spa wet-area access
- West-facing terraces for Dead Sea sunsets
- About an hour from Queen Alia Airport (AMM)
Why Couples Love the Ishtar
The Dead Sea is unlike anywhere else. The water is so salty you bob on the surface like a cork, reading a newspaper if you want the cliché photo. The air feels thick and warm, the light is hazy gold and sunsets over the water are spectacular. Ishtar makes the most of it with terraces that face west, so nearly every pool and bar has a sunset view.
The design gives the resort a sense of drama that the chain hotels nearby lack. Paths wind between palms, fountains and terraced pools. The low-rise buildings keep views open.
Then there is the spa, regularly cited among the largest in the Middle East. After a day of hiking at Wadi Mujib or touring Mount Nebo, an afternoon in the hydro-pool followed by a massage is a hard routine to beat. Couples who arrive tired from Petra leave restored.
Rooms and Suites to Book
Room categories differ more in position than in style, so choose by view and access.
- Panoramic Room by Resense Spa: 61 square meters with panoramic sea views, free access to the spa wet area and 20 percent off treatments. For a spa-focused honeymoon this is the smartest booking.
- Ishtar Superior Room: 50 square meters with an ocean view and a spacious private terrace for sunset drinks.
- Ishtar Deluxe Room: on the ground floor with a verandah and direct pool or easy beach access.
- Ishtar Terrace Room: designed for two, with a furnished verandah facing the sea.
- Superior Room: 42 square meters with a beach-view balcony, the entry point.
Suites and Royal Villas add more space and privacy for a special occasion. Whatever you choose, insist on a sea view; the sunset is the main show.
The Spa, Pools and Dining
The spa has 20 treatment rooms, six outdoor relaxation areas, heated tepidarium lounges, a Dead Sea pool and a large hydro-pool. Treatments lean on Dead Sea mud and salts. Book a couples massage early in your stay so you can add more if you love it. The hotel offers spa packages that pair rooms with treatments, worth comparing against room-only rates.
With nine swimming pools, finding a quiet one is rarely a problem. The lower pools near the beach are livelier, while the upper terraces tend to be calmer.
There are several places to eat. Blu serves Mediterranean dishes, Rehan offers Lebanese cooking, Akkad is the pool and grill spot and the Sumerian Terrace and The Edge Social Lounge suit sunset drinks. Dress at dinner is smart casual for both of you; cover swimwear when you leave the pool areas.
Why guests fall for it
Floating, Mud and Things to Do
Floating comes first. Walk into the water slowly, lean back and let the sea lift you. A few rules keep it pleasant: do not shave the day before, keep the water out of your eyes and mouth, wear water shoes for the salt crystals and limit each float to 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse at the beach showers afterward. Then coat each other in mud from the beach stations, let it dry in the sun and wash it off in the sea.
Beyond the resort, Bethany Beyond the Jordan, the baptism site, is about 20 minutes away. Mount Nebo, where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land, pairs with the mosaic town of Madaba for an easy half day. For adventure, the Siq Trail at Wadi Mujib takes you wading and climbing up a narrow canyon; it runs in the warmer months and needs good fitness.
Getting There
Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) is about an hour's drive from the resort. Downtown Amman is a similar distance. The road descends steadily from the plateau to around 430 meters below sea level. Your ears will notice.
Most couples arrange a private transfer through the hotel or a reputable driver, or pick up a rental car at the airport. Jordan is easy to drive in outside Amman. A car lets you visit Mount Nebo, Madaba and Wadi Mujib on your own schedule.
The Dead Sea fits neatly into a classic Jordan loop. Petra is about three hours south by the Kings' Highway or the faster Desert Highway. Wadi Rum is another 90 minutes beyond. Ending your trip here, after the hiking at Petra and the desert camps of Wadi Rum, gives you a soft landing before the flight home.
Is It Worth It?
Yes, if spa time and pools are a priority. Expect very roughly $280 a night for two in a Superior Room with breakfast, more for sea-view and spa-access categories and much more for suites and villas (approximate; look out for advance-booking and stay-longer offers on the official site). That is good value compared with similar spa resorts in the Gulf or Europe.
The main drawbacks are scale and crowds. With 345 rooms and nine pools, it rarely feels intimate. Fridays and Jordanian holidays bring families from Amman. Midweek stays are calmer.
Couples who want a small, design-led retreat will not find it on this coast, so treat the Dead Sea as a two-night rest stop rather than the heart of a honeymoon. In summer, temperatures climb well above 100°F (38°C); spring and autumn are far more comfortable.
Insider tips
- Book a Panoramic Room by Resense Spa for free spa wet-area access.
- Visit midweek to avoid Friday crowds from Amman.
- Bring water shoes for the salt-crusted shoreline.
- Do not shave the day before you float.
