Why Honeymoon at Franz Josef Glacier
Few experiences feel as dramatic as stepping out of a helicopter onto a glacier together. The ice is brilliantly blue in places. Guides cut steps and lead you through formations that change from week to week.
The contrast is the other appeal. Within an hour you can go from ice and snow to a rainforest walk under tree ferns, then to a hot pool surrounded by native bush.
The West Coast also feels remote and wild. Lake Matheson's mirror reflections of the Southern Alps, the quiet Okarito Lagoon and empty beaches strewn with driftwood show a side of New Zealand that many visitors miss. Days here are about nature. Evenings are quiet.
When to Go
The West Coast is wet year-round, with several meters of rain a year. Rain is part of what keeps the forest so green and the glacier fed, so plan around it rather than trying to avoid it.
December to March brings the warmest weather and longest days. It is also the busiest time, so book flights and lodging ahead.
Winter, June to August, is colder but often has more settled, clear days, which can mean better flying conditions and sharp mountain views. Snow landings are spectacular in winter light.
Whatever the season, allow at least one spare day. Helicopter flights are canceled when the cloud is low, sometimes for days at a time.
Where to Stay
Franz Josef village has motels, lodges and boutique hotels within walking distance of the main street and the hot pools. Look for rooms with mountain views or private outdoor tubs.
A few lodges and retreats sit in the rainforest just outside the village, offering more privacy and the sound of birds rather than traffic.
Fox Glacier village, about 30 minutes south, is quieter and close to Lake Matheson. Okarito, a tiny coastal settlement north of Franz Josef, has a handful of rentals and B&Bs for couples who want real seclusion.
As a rough guide, expect about NZ$180–400 a night for a good motel or lodge. Higher-end options cost more, especially in summer.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a heli-hike, which flies you onto the glacier for a guided walk of a couple of hours on the ice. Boots, crampons and jackets are usually supplied.
For something less active, take a scenic flight with a snow landing high on the névé. Longer flights loop past Fox Glacier and Aoraki/Mount Cook.
Walk the Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk to a lookout over the ice. You cannot reach the face itself, but the views of the valley and waterfalls are impressive.
Visit Lake Matheson early in the morning, when calm water reflects the mountains. Kayak on Okarito Lagoon or, from November to February, take a boat to the white heron nesting colony near Whataroa.
Getting There and Around
Franz Josef is on State Highway 6, the main road along the West Coast. Hokitika Airport (HKK), with flights from Christchurch, is about two hours north. Queenstown (ZQN) is roughly five and a half to six hours south via Wānaka and the Haast Pass.
Many couples drive the coast as part of a loop. A popular route is Queenstown to Wānaka, over the Haast Pass to Franz Josef, then north to Hokitika and across Arthur's Pass to Christchurch.
The TranzAlpine train runs from Christchurch to Greymouth, about two and a half hours north of Franz Josef by car. You need a car on the West Coast. Fill up with fuel when you can, since stations are far apart.
Food and Drink
Franz Josef's dining scene is small but welcoming. A handful of restaurants, cafés and pubs along the main street serve hearty food after a day outdoors, from pizza to lamb and venison.
Local seafood includes whitebait, tiny fish caught in West Coast rivers in spring and often served in fritters. If you see a whitebait fritter on a menu, order it.
Hokitika and Greymouth have more options. Monteith's, the West Coast brewery, has its brewery in Greymouth. On the drive, stop at roadside cafés for coffee and baking.
Many lodges outside the village offer breakfast but not dinner, so plan your evening meals in advance.
Honeymoon Tips
Book your heli-hike or scenic flight for your first full day. If it is canceled, you still have time to try again.
Sandflies are fierce on the West Coast, especially near water at dusk. Bring strong insect repellent and long sleeves.
Pack a good waterproof jacket and quick-dry layers. Rain is common and the ice is cold.
State Highway 6 can close after heavy rain or slips, especially around the Waiho River bridge. Check the New Zealand Transport Agency map before you drive. Stay behind barriers on the valley walk. Rockfall and flash floods are real risks near the glacier.
