Why Saint Helena for a Honeymoon
This is a honeymoon about remoteness and character rather than luxury. There are no chain resorts, no crowds and almost no crime. You will drive narrow lanes where every driver waves, hike to ridges with the Atlantic on three sides and eat fishcakes in a Georgian town tucked into a ravine.
The island offers more variety than its size suggests. Jamestown has a near-perfect Georgian main street and the 699 steps of Jacob's Ladder. Inland, Longwood House shows where Napoleon spent his last years. On the coast, you can snorkel over wrecks, watch dolphins from a boat and, from January to April, swim with whale sharks.
The weekly flight shapes everything. You commit to a week or two together with no easy exit, which for many couples is exactly the point.
Safety and Practicalities
Saint Helena is one of the safest places you could visit. Serious crime is rare and people leave cars unlocked. The State Department has no separate advisory for the island, which falls under the United Kingdom's Level 2 rating for terrorism.
The real risks are practical ones. Medical care is limited to a small hospital in Jamestown and serious cases must be flown out, so buy travel insurance with generous medical and air evacuation cover and keep a copy of the policy on your phone.
The other risk is the calendar. A missed connection in Johannesburg can cost you a week, so build in a buffer night there on each side. Wind and low cloud can also delay the flight. In the water, currents off the exposed coasts are strong, so swim only at sheltered spots such as Lemon Valley or the Jamestown wharf.
Best Time to Visit
Saint Helena has a mild tropical climate shaped by trade winds and a cool ocean current. In Jamestown, temperatures range from the low 70s to low 80s °F from January to April and from the mid 60s to mid 70s the rest of the year. The interior is several degrees cooler, cloudier and wetter.
The peak visitor season runs from about October to April, when extra midweek flights are often added. January to April is whale shark season and the warmest period for swimming, with the best diving visibility from December to May.
June to December brings humpback whales passing the island. These cooler months are pleasant for hiking, though mist often wraps the high ground. There is no bad season, only a choice between sea and sky.
Where to Go
Jamestown is where most couples stay and where island life gathers. Our Jamestown guide covers its hotels, Jacob's Ladder, the museum and the waterfront.
Up on the central plateau, Longwood House, where Napoleon lived from 1815 until his death, is preserved as a museum. The Briars Pavilion, where he spent his first weeks, is nearby. So is his empty tomb in a quiet valley. All three are owned by France.
Plantation House, the governor's residence, is home to Jonathan, a giant tortoise who arrived in 1882 and is recognized as the oldest known living land animal. Diana's Peak National Park protects the island's endemic cloud forest, while walks to Lot's Wife and Sandy Bay show its wild southern coast. Lemon Valley is a favorite spot to swim and snorkel.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
Because Airlink flies weekly, most visitors stay seven or 14 nights. This plan covers ten days including the Johannesburg legs.
Day 1: Fly from the US to Johannesburg overnight.
Day 2: Arrive in Johannesburg and rest near the airport.
Day 3: Saturday flight to Saint Helena. Settle into Jamestown and walk Main Street.
Day 4: Climb Jacob's Ladder early, then visit the Museum of Saint Helena and the Castle gardens.
Day 5: Napoleon day at the Briars, Longwood House and the tomb.
Day 6: Boat trip to swim with whale sharks in season, or a dolphin and wreck snorkel tour.
Day 7: Hike Diana's Peak, then visit Jonathan at Plantation House.
Day 8: Walk to Lot's Wife or Sandy Bay and picnic on the coast.
Day 9: Snorkel at Lemon Valley.
Day 10: Saturday flight back to Johannesburg.
Budget and Costs
Saint Helena is expensive to reach and moderately expensive once there. Treat these figures as approximate.
The Airlink return fare from Johannesburg is the biggest single cost after your US flights and often runs to well over $1,000 per person. Book early, as seats are limited.
On the island, guesthouses and self-catering cottages often cost around £80 to £150 a night, with the boutique Mantis hotel in Jamestown higher. Car hire typically runs roughly £30 to £50 a day. Tours such as whale shark swims, dolphin trips and guided hikes are priced per person, usually tens of pounds each.
Food is pricey because most of it is shipped in, though local fish, coffee and honey are excellent. Plan on about £200 to £350 a day for a couple, plus the flights.
Getting There and Around
Fly to Johannesburg first. Delta and United have flown nonstop to Johannesburg from Atlanta and Newark. Many other routes connect through Europe or the Middle East. From there, Airlink's Saturday flight reaches Saint Helena in about six hours, sometimes with a fuel stop in Namibia. Seasonal Tuesday flights from Cape Town have been scheduled in the southern summer, roughly mid-December to mid-March. The airport has closed at short notice before, so watch for schedule changes.
A rental car is the best way to explore. Roads are narrow, steep and twisting, with driving on the left. Book well before you arrive, as the fleet is small.
Taxis need to be booked in advance. A limited bus service links Jamestown with the countryside. Many sights also connect by footpaths, including the island's popular Post Box Walks.
Culture and Etiquette
Saints are friendly, polite and quietly proud of their island. Wave at drivers and walkers you pass. Everyone does it. Not waving is noticed.
Island life runs at its own pace. Shops close early, many are shut on Sundays and supplies depend on the monthly cargo ship. If something has run out, it may be weeks before it returns. Patience is part of the trip.
The island's food reflects its seafaring past. Try fishcakes spiced with chili, plo (a curried rice dish) and fresh tuna or wahoo. Saint Helena coffee, grown from beans brought in the 1700s, is among the rarest in the world. Tungi, a spirit made from prickly pears, is the local drink to try.
Church plays a big role in community life. Visitors are welcome at Sunday services at St James' Church in Jamestown.
Quick tips
- Book your car hire before you fly, especially for November to April. Expect to drive on the left on steep single-track roads.
- Carry enough British pounds in cash for the whole stay; the island has no ATMs and the bank closes from Saturday afternoon to Monday.
- Buy travel insurance that covers a missed weekly flight, since the next one may be seven days later.
