Why Honeymoon in Bukhara
Bukhara is the most atmospheric town on the Silk Road circuit. The old center is compact enough to explore on foot, yet dense enough that every walk turns up a new courtyard or carved wooden door.
The heart of town is Lyabi-Hauz, a 17th-century pond framed by old mulberry trees and madrasas. In the evening, families gather, teahouses fill and the water reflects the lights. It is the natural place to end each day with tea or dinner.
The monuments range across a thousand years. The Samanid Mausoleum, built in the 10th century, is a small cube of patterned brick that changes texture as the sun moves. The Kalyan Minaret and mosque form one of the most dramatic ensembles in Central Asia.
Bukhara also has a craft tradition that is easy to share as a couple: watching a blacksmith forge stork-shaped scissors or a miniature painter at work in a madrasa cell.
When to Go
April, May, September and October are the best times. Days reach the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit, evenings are pleasant for outdoor dining and the light is soft.
Summer is extremely hot. Bukhara sits on the edge of the desert. July highs average close to 100 Fahrenheit with almost no rain. If you visit then, plan sightseeing for early morning and evening, with long rests in an air-conditioned room.
Winter is cold and dry, with frosty nights. Few tourists come, so the old town is very quiet and guesthouse prices drop. Bring warm layers since many historic buildings are unheated.
March and November are transitional, with variable weather that can be lovely or chilly. Spring festivals sometimes bring music and crafts to the squares.
Where to Stay
Stay inside or right beside the old town so you can walk everywhere, especially in the evening. The area around Lyabi-Hauz has the most choice.
Bukhara's specialty is the boutique guesthouse in a restored merchant's house. Expect a central courtyard with trees or a fountain, rooms with carved plaster niches and painted ceilings and breakfast served outdoors. Many are run by families who will help with tours, drivers and dinner bookings.
Rooms can be small and plumbing old in historic buildings, so read recent reviews carefully. Upper-floor rooms with rooftop terraces are worth asking for.
Several larger international and upscale hotels sit a short walk or taxi ride from the center. These have pools and more space, which helps in hot months, but they lack the intimate charm of the old-town guesthouses.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend an evening at Lyabi-Hauz. Have dinner under the mulberry trees and watch the lights come on across the water.
Walk to the Poi Kalyan complex after dark, when the minaret and the facades of the mosque and madrasa are floodlit. It is quieter than in the daytime.
Browse the trading domes, including the old money changers' dome near Lyabi-Hauz. Carpets, suzani embroidery, ceramics and spices fill the stalls.
Book a traditional hammam. Bukhara has historic bathhouses where attendants offer scrubs and massages. Traditional sessions are usually separate for men and women, but some places offer private sessions for couples, so ask when you book.
Take a short ride to Sitorai Mohi Xosa, the summer palace of the last emir, with gilded reception rooms, gardens and peacocks.
Watch the sunset from a rooftop terrace near the Ark fortress, with the old city and minarets stretched out below.
Getting There and Around
Most visitors arrive by train. The Afrosiyob high-speed service runs from Tashkent through Samarkand to Bukhara, with the Samarkand leg taking about 90 minutes. Book early since seats sell out in spring and fall.
Bukhara International Airport (BHK) has flights from Tashkent and a few international connections, including Istanbul. It sits close to town, about 15 minutes by car.
From Bukhara, slower trains and private cars continue to Khiva through the Kyzylkum Desert. The road trip takes most of a day but passes desert scenery and the Amu Darya river. Many couples prefer the train for comfort.
Inside the old town, walking is the best way to get around. Taxis cover the summer palace, the Chor Minor gatehouse and outlying sights. Hotels can arrange drivers and licensed guides.
Food and Drink
Bukhara's restaurants range from humble teahouses to elegant courtyard dining rooms. Lyabi-Hauz has several busy places with outdoor tables facing the water, which are lively on warm evenings.
Plov is the essential dish here too, often served at midday. Look also for shurpa, a clear lamb and vegetable soup. Kebabs grilled over charcoal are everywhere. Samsa pastries baked in clay ovens make a good snack while wandering.
Green tea is served everywhere, often with dried fruit, nuts and sweets. Try the local halva and nisholda, a whipped sweet made from egg whites and sugar, sold in the old town.
Several restaurants inside historic madrasas or merchant houses offer dinner with traditional music. Rooftop terraces near the Kalyan Minaret are the most romantic option for a sunset meal. Most places serve wine and beer, though some teahouses do not.
Honeymoon Tips
- Allow three nights so you can walk the old town at different times of day.
- Choose a guesthouse with a courtyard or rooftop to enjoy cool evenings.
- Visit monuments early, when it is quieter and cooler, then rest during the afternoon heat.
- Bargain politely in the trading domes; start well below the asking price and smile.
- Bring cash for small guesthouses, hammams and crafts, although some shops accept cards.
- Dress modestly at active mosques, especially around the Kalyan complex.
- Ask your host about evening folk performances held in historic buildings during the main seasons.
