Why Honeymoon in Vienna
The romance here is old-fashioned in the best sense. Couples still waltz at balls in the Hofburg, string quartets play in Baroque churches and waiters in black jackets bring your coffee on a silver tray with a glass of water on the side.
The art is a draw on its own. The Upper Belvedere holds Gustav Klimt's The Kiss, the Kunsthistorisches Museum has a room full of Bruegels and the Leopold Museum covers Egon Schiele. Music is everywhere, from the Vienna Philharmonic in the Golden Hall of the Musikverein to buskers in the U-Bahn.
Then there is the wine. Vienna is one of the few capitals with serious vineyards inside the city limits, so an evening can end at a family wine tavern overlooking the rooftops instead of a hotel bar.
When to Go
April through June is lovely: chestnut trees bloom along the Ring, café terraces open and the opera season is still running. September and October are equally good, with harvest at the city vineyards and a new crop of Sturm, the cloudy young wine sold only in early autumn.
July and August can be hot and humid, sometimes reaching the mid 90s Fahrenheit. The State Opera and the Philharmonic break for summer, though open-air films at the Rathausplatz and the Danube beaches make up for it.
Winter is gray and cold but atmospheric. Christmas markets run from mid-November into late December. January and February are ball season. Note that the city largely shuts down on December 25 and 26. On Sundays year-round most shops close.
Where to Stay
The First District (Innere Stadt) inside the Ring puts you within walking distance of the opera, the cathedral and the best cafés. This is where the grand hotels sit: Hotel Sacher across from the opera and Hotel Imperial on the Ring both deliver the full imperial treatment. Park Hyatt Vienna occupies a former bank headquarters on Am Hof. Rosewood Vienna offers a quieter, more contemporary feel near the Graben.
For a more local base, look at Neubau (7th District) and the cobbled lanes of Spittelberg, full of boutique hotels, wine bars and design shops. Wieden (4th) and Mariahilf (6th) sit by the Naschmarkt and are good for food lovers.
Ask for a room facing the courtyard on busy streets; trams start early.
Romantic Things to Do
Start at Schönbrunn Palace early, before tour groups arrive. Walk up through the free gardens to the Gloriette for the view back over the palace and city. The Belvedere's terraced gardens are quieter and the Klimt gallery is best right at opening.
In the evening, see an opera at the Staatsoper or a concert at the Musikverein. A ride on the Riesenrad, the giant Ferris wheel in the Prater that dates from 1897, is short but charming at dusk. Individual cabins can be booked for private rides.
On a warm afternoon, take the tram toward the Vienna Woods and hike up to Kahlenberg for a view over the Danube. In summer, the Alte Donau, an old arm of the river, has swimming spots and rowboat rentals that locals use far more than tourists do.
Getting There and Around
Vienna International Airport (VIE) has nonstop flights from several US cities on Austrian Airlines. From the arrivals hall, the City Airport Train reaches Wien Mitte in about 16 minutes. The S7 commuter train is slower but much cheaper. Some long-distance trains run straight to the main station, Wien Hauptbahnhof, in about 15 minutes.
Inside the city, you will not need a car. Trams, the U-Bahn and buses share one ticket. A seven-day pass costs under 30 euros, which beats taxis even for two. Tram lines 1 and 2 circle much of the Ring and make a cheap sightseeing ride.
Railjet trains connect Vienna with Salzburg in under three hours and with Budapest in about two and a half, so it is easy to continue by rail.
Food and Drink
Order Wiener Schnitzel at least once; by law it must be veal when sold under that name, so check the menu wording. Figlmüller is famous for plate-sized schnitzel. Plachutta built its name on Tafelspitz, boiled beef served in its broth with apple horseradish and chive sauce.
Coffeehouses are an institution. Café Central is grand and busy, Café Sperl feels little changed since it opened in 1880 and Demel is the place for pastries. Order a melange, never just "a coffee," and expect to ask for the check yourself.
The Naschmarkt is good for lunch and people watching. For wine, head to a Heuriger, a family wine tavern, in Grinzing, Nussdorf or Stammersdorf. A bough hung above the door means it is open and serving its own wine with a cold buffet.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book opera and Philharmonic seats online as soon as your dates are set; popular nights sell out weeks ahead.
- Standing-room opera tickets are released shortly before each performance and are a great value if you do not mind being on your feet for a few hours.
- Dress smartly for the opera and better restaurants. A jacket or a dress fits in everywhere.
- Waiters will not bring the check unless you ask. Say "Zahlen, bitte" and round up about 10 percent.
- Carry some cash for Heurigen and small cafés.
- Mention your honeymoon when booking hotels and dinners. A glass of sparkling Sekt often appears without fuss.
- Bike lanes on sidewalks are easy to miss. Watch where you walk, especially along the Ring.
