Why Honeymoon in Prague
Few European capitals are as easy to fall for in a long weekend. The distances are short, the architecture changes on every corner and there is always somewhere to stop for a glass of something. You can climb to the castle in the morning, have a long lunch in a monastery courtyard and spend the evening at a chamber concert under frescoed ceilings.
Prague is also a good value. Hotels in restored palaces and old townhouses cost less than their equivalents in Western Europe. A night at the opera in a gilded theater is affordable enough to be a spontaneous decision.
The city pairs well with a second stop. Vienna, Český Krumlov and the Moravian wine country are all within a few hours. Couples who want a fuller trip can combine two or three of them without long transfers or extra flights.
When to Go
May, June and September give you the best balance of weather and life on the streets. Highs sit in the 60s and 70s, gardens open on the castle slopes and beer gardens fill every evening. Book well ahead for these months.
July and August are warm and the busiest of the year. The city is lively, but midday crowds on the bridge and in the Old Town Square can be overwhelming. Plan sightseeing for early morning and evening and keep the afternoons for a long lunch or a nap.
From late November to early January, Christmas markets take over the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square with mulled wine, sausages and a giant tree. It is cold and dark by four in the afternoon, but undeniably atmospheric. January through March is quiet and gray, with the lowest hotel rates. April and October are cool and often lovely.
Where to Stay
Malá Strana, the Lesser Town below the castle, is the most romantic base. Its lanes empty out in the evening and many hotels sit in old palaces with garden courtyards. The Augustine is a luxury hotel set partly in a working monastery. The Aria Hotel, a music themed boutique beside a Baroque garden, is a few minutes away on foot. The Mandarin Oriental occupies a former monastery a few lanes away.
The Old Town is livelier and puts you closest to restaurants, bars and the river. The Four Seasons sits on the riverbank with views across to the castle.
Hradčany, the castle district at the top of the hill, is quiet at night and has some lovely small hotels, though you climb every time you come home.
For a more local feel, look at Vinohrady, a leafy residential area with wine bars, cafes and good tram links. It costs less and feels like a real neighborhood.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Charles Bridge twice: once at first light when it is nearly empty, then again late at night with the castle lit above you. Climb the Old Town Bridge Tower for the view down its length.
Ride the funicular up Petřín Hill, walk through the rose garden and climb the small lookout tower modeled on the Eiffel Tower. From there, a path leads along the slope to Strahov Monastery, which has a historic library and its own brewery.
Vyšehrad, an old fortress on a cliff south of the center, has ramparts above the river, a quiet cemetery where Dvořák is buried and few tourists. At sunset, cross to the Letná beer garden for a cold Pilsner and the classic view of the bridges stacked down the river.
Rent a paddleboat from Slavic Island in summer. Book a concert in a Baroque church, or see Don Giovanni at the Estates Theatre, where Mozart conducted its premiere in 1787.
Getting There and Around
Václav Havel Airport (PRG) sits about 30 minutes west of the center by car. Delta has flown seasonally from New York JFK and American from Philadelphia, though most couples connect through a European hub. The airport has an official taxi partner. Ride apps such as Bolt and Uber work well. The cheapest route is bus 59 to the Nádraží Veleslavín metro station, then the metro into town.
Once you arrive, walk. The historic center is compact. Cobblestones and hills make cars more trouble than help. Trams are frequent and scenic. Line 22 climbs past the castle. One ticket system covers trams, the metro, buses and the Petřín funicular. Buy tickets in the PID Lítačka app or validate paper tickets when you board, because inspectors do check.
Trains to Vienna take about four hours. Comfortable buses reach Český Krumlov in about three.
Food and Drink
Start with Czech classics. Svíčková is beef in a creamy vegetable sauce with bread dumplings and cranberries. Roast duck with red cabbage is a Sunday favorite. Chlebíčky, small open faced sandwiches, make a good snack between sights.
Prague now has a respectable fine dining scene, with several restaurants recognized by the Michelin Guide. Many reinterpret Czech ingredients in tasting menus. Book a few weeks ahead for a special dinner.
Beer is cheap and excellent. Order a half liter of Pilsner Urquell from a tank pub, or try a smaller craft brewery in Vinohrady or Holešovice. Wine bars pour bright whites from Moravia, which most visitors never see at home.
Weekday lunch menus, called denní menu, are the best value in town. Skip trdelník, the sugary chimney cake sold everywhere in the center. It is a tourist invention rather than a Czech tradition.
Honeymoon Tips
Mention your honeymoon when booking hotels and dinners. Small hotels in particular often respond with a bottle of wine or a room with a better view.
Book Prague Castle tickets online and arrive at opening. The grounds and gardens are free to walk, so you can return in the evening without a ticket.
Use ride apps instead of street taxis and change money only at banks or reputable exchange offices. Always pay in koruna rather than dollars on card machines.
Keep phones and wallets zipped on the bridge, on crowded trams and around the Astronomical Clock, which draws pickpockets as well as crowds.
If you have one free day, take the train to Kutná Hora for its Gothic cathedral of St. Barbara and the Sedlec bone chapel. Karlštejn Castle is an easy half day by suburban train for couples who want to see the countryside.
