A Beach Town and an Outer Island
Grand Anse is the beach most people picture when they think of Grenada. Pale sand and gentle water run for about two miles, backed by almond trees, small and midsize hotels and a handful of beach bars. At the north end, the red roofs and church towers of St. George's stack up the hillside across the bay. Morne Rouge Bay sits just over the headland. Lance aux Epines adds quieter coves near the airport. It is busier than the rest of Grenada, with cruise passengers and vendors on some days.
Carriacou is low hills, mangrove bays and white beaches behind reefs, with around 6,000 residents. Fishermen and boatbuilders still work the shores. In Windward, families of Scottish descent have built wooden sloops by hand for generations. The Big Drum dance still honors West African ancestors at village celebrations. People wave from porches and chat at the ferry dock.
Grand Anse gives you Grenada's highlights on a plate. Carriacou gives you a slower, more personal island.
Stays: Polished or Simple
Grand Anse has the range. Spice Island Beach Resort is a long-established luxury hotel on the sand, with suites that have private pools. Silversands Grenada has a modern design and a very long pool running toward the beach. Mount Cinnamon sits on the hillside above with views over the bay. On Morne Rouge's Portici Bay, Laluna has 16 thatched cottages above its own little beach, each with a plunge pool. Its meal-inclusive offer starts from roughly $645 a night for two plus tax and service. In Lance aux Epines, Calabash Hotel has garden suites facing a calm bay. Sandals Grenada, a kid-free all-inclusive on Pink Gin Beach, bundles everything.
Carriacou's lodging is small scale: guesthouses, cottages and private villas, many run by local families or longtime residents. Hillsborough and Tyrrel Bay are the main bases. L'Esterre puts you near Paradise Beach. Hillside villas above Tyrrel Bay and near Bogles add views and privacy. Since Beryl, some places have rebuilt and others remain closed, so contact hosts directly and ask about water, power and Wi-Fi. A villa with a kitchen keeps you flexible.
In and On the Water
Carriacou's sea is clear and calm, especially from January through May. Take a water taxi to Sandy Island, a thin strip of sand and palms in a marine protected area off Hillsborough. Bring shade, water and lunch, since there are no facilities. Swim at Paradise Beach, shallow and reef-sheltered at L'Esterre. Walk the coastal trail to Anse La Roche, a secluded bay with good snorkeling. On the northeast coast, guided night tours sometimes visit turtle nesting beaches in season. A boat to tiny Petite Martinique makes a good half-day.
Grand Anse is a base for more organized water days. Dive boats leave from the beach for wrecks and for the underwater sculpture park at Molinere Bay, where life-size figures rest in shallow water and coral has slowly grown over them. Snorkelers can see them clearly on a calm morning. Back on Grand Anse, the water is usually gentle enough for a long swim.
For solitude, Carriacou. For variety and easy logistics, Grand Anse.
Beyond the Beach
Grand Anse puts the rest of Grenada within reach. Spend a morning in St. George's, climbing Fort George for views over the Carenage and browsing the spice market for nutmeg, mace and cocoa balls. Head into the interior for a swim at Annandale Falls or a guided Seven Sisters hike in Grand Etang. Tour a cocoa estate to see beans become chocolate bars. On Fridays, drive up the west coast to Gouyave for Fish Friday, a street party of grilled seafood and music. Hire a driver-guide for these trips rather than renting a car, since interior roads are steep and narrow.
Carriacou's culture is smaller and more intimate. Visit the boatbuilders of Windward and ask before taking photographs. Spend sunset among the yachts in Tyrrel Bay. Time your trip for a festival if you can: the Carriacou Regatta on the first weekend of August, a Maroon and string band festival usually in April, Parang the weekend before Christmas or Carnival just before Lent. Even a small village event can become a highlight.
Eating Well
On Grand Anse, choices run from beach bars for a sunset rum punch to resort restaurants that range from relaxed to quite formal, several known for using local produce. Laluna has an Italian restaurant on the sand. Try oil down, Grenada's national dish of breadfruit, callaloo and salted meat simmered in coconut milk, often served on weekends. Lambi (conch), lobster in season, callaloo soup, nutmeg ice cream and cocoa tea all appear on menus.
On Carriacou, meals are simple and fresh: grilled fish, conch, chicken with rice and peas, roti and lobster in season. Many guesthouses cook dinner on request, which can be the best meal of the trip. Tyrrel Bay has long been the dining hub, with waterfront spots for sailors. Since Beryl, openings have shifted, so ask your host what is operating. There are no large supermarkets, so bring treats from Grenada if you plan to cook. Jack Iron, an overproof local rum, is a legend best treated with caution.
Getting There and Timing It
Maurice Bishop International Airport (GND) has US nonstops from Miami and New York JFK, plus seasonal flights from Charlotte and Atlanta in some winters. Grand Anse is 10 to 15 minutes away, one of the shortest transfers in the Caribbean. Taxis charge set fares and minibuses run cheaply to St. George's during the day.
Carriacou takes an extra step. Flights from the US usually land too late to connect, so plan a night near Grand Anse first. From St. George's, the Osprey ferry runs most days and takes about 90 minutes direct; seas can be rough, so bring motion sickness tablets if needed. Short regional flights also reach Lauriston Airport (CRU), with limited schedules. On the island, taxis meet arrivals and minibuses run by day except Sundays. A rental car or jeep helps for beaches and villas.
January through May is the dry season for both. Carriacou is drier than Grenada. Hurricane season runs June through November. Travel insurance with medical evacuation cover is wise for Carriacou, since serious cases are flown off the island.
The Two-Island Honeymoon
Because you pass through Grand Anse on the way to Carriacou anyway, a split is natural. Try this for eight or nine nights: one night on Grand Anse to recover from the flight, then the ferry north for three nights on Carriacou with Sandy Island, Paradise Beach and a slow sunset in Tyrrel Bay. Return to Grand Anse for four or five nights in a plunge-pool cottage or beachfront suite, with the sculpture park, a waterfall swim and Fish Friday in Gouyave.
Ending on Grand Anse puts you minutes from the airport and back among full services, which is a comfortable way to finish.
If you have a week or less, stay on Grand Anse and skip the ferry, since Carriacou deserves at least two or three nights to be worth the journey. If you go, carry cash, as ATMs are few. Pack insect repellent: mosquitoes can carry dengue in the region, so if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices first.
