Sunset Coast vs Sunrise Coast
The simplest way to choose is to ask which end of the day you care about. Le Morne faces west and south, so the sun drops into open water right beside the mountain. A drink on the public beach at dusk, with local families picnicking and fishermen pulling in boats, is one of the best evenings in Mauritius.
Belle Mare faces east. The show is at dawn, with the sky turning pink over the reef while the beach is still empty. Walking the sand with coffee before the resorts wake up is the free highlight here. If you are not early risers, you will see less of what makes this coast special, though the lagoon light through the day is lovely.
The setting behind you differs too. At Le Morne the basalt peak looms over every pool. Belle Mare is flatter, with casuarina trees and gardens backing the beach. The drama is in the water and the length of the sand.
The Beach and the Water
Belle Mare has the better beach for walking and swimming. The sand is soft, it runs for several miles and the water deepens gently, so swimming is easy at most tides. Because beaches in Mauritius are public along the shore, you can walk past several resorts in one stroll.
Le Morne's lagoon is wider and paler, stretching so far to the reef that it feels like a private lake. It is shallow and sandy right off the resorts, which makes for calm floating but modest snorkeling. For coral, both areas send you out by boat: Le Morne to Île aux Bénitiers and Crystal Rock, Belle Mare to the waters around Île aux Cerfs.
In both places, pack water shoes for urchins and stonefish in the shallows. Use reef-safe sunscreen too.
When Each Coast Is at Its Best
Both coasts take the southeast trade winds from about June to August, when the lagoon can be choppy by afternoon and the beach feels cool late in the day. Le Morne's wind delights kitesurfers. Belle Mare's makes a strong case for spa afternoons and golf. Neither is a still-water winter choice. For that, Mauritius points you to the northwest.
Le Morne is best in April, May and September through November. Belle Mare is strongest from September to December, as the wind eases and the sea warms, with April also good.
December to March is hot and humid with cyclone risk. Here the west has an edge, since the east coast catches more rain than Le Morne. If you are traveling in January or February, lean toward Le Morne and plan a few indoor activities either way. Prices peak at both over Christmas and New Year.
Resorts on Each Side
Le Morne's peninsula holds a handful of big resorts with direct lagoon frontage. LUX* Le Morne has a quieter stretch of sand and rooms from roughly $500 a night. The St. Regis Le Morne offers butler-served suites, typically from around $750. Beachcomber's Paradis, with a golf course on the grounds, often starts near $300. Ask whether your room faces the sunset or the mountain.
Belle Mare's line-up is longer and more famous. One&Only Le Saint Géran sits on its own peninsula at Pointe de Flacq. Constance Prince Maurice has thatched suites, some on stilts over a mangrove inlet, usually from around $900 a night. Constance Belle Mare Plage, LUX* Belle Mare and Long Beach sit on the main beach, while Shangri-La Le Touessrok has a private island for guests. Ask for beachfront rather than garden view.
Both areas have cheaper villas nearby, in La Gaulette at Le Morne and in Palmar at Belle Mare. All prices are approximate.
Transfers and Getting Around
This is where Belle Mare pulls ahead. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Airport (MRU) is in the southeast, about 45 to 60 minutes from Belle Mare along the eastern road. Le Morne is roughly 75 to 90 minutes away. After a journey from the US that runs 20 hours or more with a connection in Dubai, Paris, London, Istanbul or Johannesburg, that extra half hour is noticeable.
For day trips, both work best with a rental car or a hired driver. From Le Morne, the hills of Chamarel are minutes away and Tamarin is a short drive north. From Belle Mare, the coastal road links the fishing villages of Trou d'Eau Douce and Poste de Flacq, while the motorway reaches Port Louis in about an hour. Drive on the left and agree on taxi fares in advance, since cabs are not metered.
Active Days or Slow Days
Le Morne suits couples who want at least a few big outings. Climb Le Morne Brabant at dawn, with a guide for the steep upper scramble. Take a helicopter or seaplane over the underwater waterfall. Book kitesurf lessons in the shallow inner lagoon. Spend an afternoon in Chamarel among the colored earth dunes, the waterfall and the rum distillery.
Belle Mare suits couples who want to slow down. Take an early boat from Trou d'Eau Douce to Île aux Cerfs before the day boats arrive, adding the Grand River South East waterfall on the way. Charter a private catamaran with a grilled lunch on board. Play the Constance courses or the one on Île aux Cerfs. Browse the market at Centre de Flacq. The big east coast resorts also have some of the largest spas on the island, which earn their keep on breezy afternoons.
The Case for Doing Both
Our Belle Mare guide makes this point too: many couples split their stay. This is the classic way to do it. Spend the first five or six nights at Le Morne for the mountain and the sunsets, then cross the island to Belle Mare for the last four. The drive takes about 90 minutes by motorway. Ending in the east means a short transfer on departure day and a final morning swim instead of a long ride.
If you only have a week, pick one. Seven nights split two ways leaves too little time to settle in once you lose half a day to the transfer. In that case, let the season decide: Le Morne for April, May or the hot summer months, Belle Mare for September to December when the east coast is at its calmest and warmest. Whichever you choose, mention your honeymoon when booking, since resorts on both coasts often add a bottle of sparkling wine, turndown touches or a beach dinner offer.