Why Honeymoon in Aswan
Aswan rewards doing less. After the early starts of Cairo and Luxor, it is the place to take a long breakfast, spend the afternoon on a felucca and watch the sun drop behind the dunes from a hotel terrace.
The scenery is the draw. The river runs through the First Cataract here, a stretch of rocky islands that once marked the southern edge of pharaonic Egypt. Granite from these quarries ended up in obelisks across the country. Today the islands hold a botanical garden, Nubian homes and ancient ruins on Elephantine.
Aswan also carries a little old-world glamour. Victorian travelers wintered here for the dry air. Agatha Christie stayed at the town's most famous hotel while writing Death on the Nile. A sundowner on that terrace, looking across to the Tombs of the Nobles lit by the setting sun, is about as romantic as Egypt gets.
When to Go
Aswan is one of the hottest and driest places on earth, so timing matters. November through February brings daytime highs in the 70s Fahrenheit and cool, clear nights. January is the coolest month, with average highs in the low 70s. This is the season for felucca sails, long lunches outdoors and comfortable sightseeing all day.
March and October are warm but workable if you plan around midday. From April the heat climbs quickly. From June through September average highs sit above 100 degrees, with records far beyond that.
Rain almost never falls. Abu Simbel's sun alignment, when sunlight reaches deep into the inner sanctuary, happens around February 22 and October 22 each year. It draws big crowds, so book well ahead if you want to be there for it.
Where to Stay
The Sofitel Legend Old Cataract is the classic splurge, a Victorian-era palace on a granite outcrop above the river with views across to Elephantine Island and the west bank dunes. Even if you stay elsewhere, reserve a table on its terrace for a sunset drink.
Several larger resorts sit on the islands in the river, reached by the hotel's own boats. They offer pools, gardens and a pleasant sense of being away from town while staying a short ride from the corniche.
For something more personal, Nubian guesthouses on the west bank, especially around the village of Gharb Soheil, have painted domed rooms, rooftop terraces and home-cooked meals. They are simple rather than luxurious, but many couples remember them as the highlight of the trip. A cruise boat or a dahabiya moored in Aswan is the other option, with the river views built in.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a felucca in the late afternoon. Sail around Elephantine Island and Kitchener's Island, where the botanical garden fills an entire island with palms and flowering trees. The boats are slow and quiet, the captain does the work and the light turns gold as the dunes catch the sun.
Philae Temple, dedicated to the goddess Isis, was moved stone by stone to a higher island when the dams were built. You reach it by small motorboat. It is lovely in the morning light. A sound and light show runs some evenings.
Take an early trip south to Abu Simbel, where four seated statues of Ramesses II guard a temple cut into the cliff, next to a smaller temple for his queen Nefertari. Spend a slow afternoon in a Nubian village afterward, with tea, music and bright painted walls. The Nubian Museum gives good background before you go.
Getting There and Around
Aswan International Airport (ASW) has flights from Cairo, roughly an hour and a half in the air. There are no nonstops from the US, so plan to connect in Cairo.
Trains run north to Luxor in about three to four hours and on to Cairo overnight on a sleeper. Many visitors arrive or leave by Nile cruise boat, with the Luxor to Aswan leg typically taking three or four nights. Multi-night Lake Nasser cruises run between Aswan and Abu Simbel for couples who want something less crowded.
Abu Simbel is about 290 kilometers south. You can go by road, usually in an early morning convoy or private car that takes around three and a half hours each way, or by a short flight to Abu Simbel's small airport. In town, use hotel boats, licensed taxis or ride-hailing apps. Motorboats and feluccas serve as water taxis to the islands and the west bank.
Food and Drink
Nubian cooking is the local specialty. A home-style lunch in a west bank village is worth arranging. Expect slow-cooked stews with okra or lamb, rice, bread baked in clay ovens and a pot of strong sweet tea afterward.
Along the corniche, floating restaurants and riverside cafes serve grilled fish from the Nile or Lake Nasser, along with Egyptian mezze such as baba ghanoush and tahini. The spice market in town is a good place to pick up hibiscus flowers for karkade tea, dried dates and Nubian spice blends to take home.
Alcohol is served in the larger hotels, on cruise boats and at a few tourist restaurants. Outside those places, assume it is not available. Hibiscus tea and fresh juices fill the gap well.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book your Abu Simbel trip early in your stay so a cancellation leaves time for a second try.
- If you fly to Abu Simbel, ask how long you will have at the temples, since some packages are tight.
- Felucca prices are negotiable. Agree on the route and time before boarding.
- Pack layers. Winter mornings on the water are chilly, even when afternoons are warm.
- Ask permission before photographing people in Nubian villages.
- Reserve a sunset table at a terrace bar a day or two ahead in high season.
- Leave room in your schedule for nothing at all. Aswan is the rest stop of an Egypt honeymoon.
