Safety and the Advisory
Eritrea is generally calm and street crime in Asmara is low. The concerns in the State Department's Level 2 advisory are about the government and the terrain rather than muggings.
Foreigners need a permit to travel more than 25 kilometers outside Asmara. Roadblocks check documents. US officials also need special approval to leave the capital, which limits the embassy's ability to help. The advisory warns that Eritrean authorities may not inform the embassy if a US citizen is detained.
Landmines remain in many remote areas, including around Nakfa, parts of the Massawa region and near Keren. Stay on established roads and paths.
Dual US-Eritrean nationals face particular risks. Eritrea does not recognize dual nationality. Dual nationals may be subject to taxes and national service.
Malaria is a risk in the hot lowlands around Massawa, though much less so on the Asmara plateau. Pack repellent for the coast and see a travel clinic before you go; if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Eritrea. Avoid political discussions and do not photograph government buildings, police or military sites.
Why Eritrea for a Honeymoon
The main draw is Asmara itself. The city's streets are a museum of modernist architecture, but they are also lived in. Old men sip espresso at Bar Zilli. Couples walk Harnet Avenue in the evening passeggiata. Bicycles roll past the Fiat Tagliero service station, its concrete wings stretched like an airplane. There is very little tourist infrastructure, which means you experience the city as it really is.
The climate in the highlands is mild year round. Days are warm, nights cool and the sun bright.
Below the plateau, the landscape changes dramatically. The road to Massawa drops through switchbacks and terraces to the coast. Massawa's old town has coral-stone buildings from Ottoman and Egyptian times. The Dahlak islands offer reefs with almost no other divers.
If you value discovery over convenience, Eritrea offers the rare thrill of exploring somewhere without crowds.
Best Time to Visit
Eritrea's seasons depend on altitude. In the highlands around Asmara, the main rains fall roughly from June to September, with lighter showers possible in spring. October to April is mostly dry and sunny, though December to February nights can be close to freezing. The hottest months are usually April and May, when days can reach the mid 80s Fahrenheit.
On the Red Sea coast, the pattern is reversed. Summer, from June to September, is extremely hot, with temperatures that can top 104°F. The cooler coastal season runs roughly from November to March, when diving and beach days are pleasant.
For a trip combining Asmara and Massawa, November to March is the best overall window. You will have dry highland days and bearable heat on the coast. Avoid Eritrean holidays if you need government offices for permits, since they may close.
Where to Go
Asmara is the natural base and has its own guide on this site. Spend several days walking its avenues, sitting in cafes and visiting landmarks such as the Cinema Impero, the Catholic cathedral and the Fiat Tagliero building.
Massawa, about three to four hours by road, sits on two islands linked to the mainland by causeways. The old town has crumbling coral-stone mansions, mosques and a waterfront that comes alive in the evening.
The Dahlak Archipelago, offshore from Massawa, includes more than 200 islands with coral reefs. Access requires permits and a boat charter.
Keren, north of Asmara, is known for its markets, bougainvillea and colonial-era buildings.
Filfil, northeast of Asmara, has a pocket of green forest that feels worlds away from the dry plateau. Archaeology fans can visit Qohaito, an ancient city on the edge of the escarpment.
Sample 9-Day Itinerary
Days 1 to 3: Arrive in Asmara and adjust to the altitude. Walk Harnet Avenue, visit the cathedral, see the Cinema Impero and spend an afternoon at the National Museum. Apply for your travel permit early.
Day 4: Take a day trip toward Filfil or a short excursion to villages on the edge of the escarpment for views.
Days 5 and 6: Drive down to Massawa. Explore the old town, eat grilled fish on the waterfront and relax in the warmth.
Day 7: Charter a boat for a day trip to the Dahlak islands to snorkel or dive.
Day 8: Return to Asmara, stopping at viewpoints along the road.
Day 9: Fly out via Istanbul, Cairo or Dubai.
With more time, add Keren and its markets, or ask a local agency about a steam train excursion on the restored Asmara-Massawa railway.
Budget and Costs
Eritrea is moderately priced for visitors, but cash is everything. Figures below are approximate.
Mid-range hotels in Asmara often cost around $60 to $150 a night for two. Higher-end hotels charge more but are limited in number. Massawa has a smaller selection of hotels, some of them dated.
Meals in local restaurants and cafes are inexpensive. A cappuccino or macchiato in Asmara costs very little. Italian and Eritrean dinners for two are usually affordable by US standards.
Car hire with a driver is a significant expense, partly because fuel is costly. Boat charters to the Dahlak islands can also add up.
Plan your entire budget in cash before arrival, with a buffer. There are no ATMs and cards are not accepted. Exchange money only at official Himbol branches. You cannot take more than 1,000 nakfa out of the country, so spend down before you leave.
Getting There and Around
There are no direct flights from the US. Turkish Airlines connects via Istanbul, EgyptAir via Cairo and flydubai via Dubai. Flynas serves Jeddah. Ethiopian Airlines suspended its Asmara flights in 2024.
Within Asmara, walking is a pleasure. Shared taxis and buses run fixed routes cheaply. Contract taxis cost more and should be negotiated.
For travel outside the capital, you need a permit from the Ministry of Immigration and Nationality office in Asmara. Apply a day or two in advance and carry it with you. A hired car with a driver is the most practical option, though public buses also run to major towns.
Drive during daylight. Mountain roads have sharp bends and buses do not run after dark. Respect all checkpoints.
Culture and Etiquette
Eritreans are reserved but welcoming. A handshake and a greeting in Tigrinya, selam, are appreciated. Many people speak English.
The coffee ceremony is a cornerstone of social life. Beans are roasted, ground and brewed in a clay pot called a jebena, then served in three rounds. Accepting all three cups is polite.
Dress modestly, particularly outside Asmara. Cover shoulders and knees in churches and mosques. Remove shoes when entering mosques and some homes.
Photography is restricted. Never photograph government buildings, police, military sites or the airport. Ask before photographing people.
Avoid political conversations. Eritrea has a one-party government and open criticism can be risky.
Tipping is not obligatory but is appreciated in restaurants and for drivers and guides. The evening stroll along Harnet Avenue is the easiest way to blend in and enjoy the city.
Quick tips
- Bring enough US dollars or euros in cash for the whole trip; there are no ATMs and cards are not accepted.
- Collect your travel permit in Asmara before any day trip. Carry it with your passport at every checkpoint.
- Expect no mobile data roaming; download maps and confirm plans before you land.
