Is Kiribati Right for Your Honeymoon?
Answer honestly before you book. If you want a spa, overwater villas and fine dining, Kiribati is the wrong choice; look at Fiji, the Cook Islands or Hawaii instead. If one or both of you fly fish, Kiritimati may be the most exciting trip you could take together. Its sand flats hold bonefish in large numbers, while giant trevally hunt the edges.
Birders are the other natural fit. Kiritimati is a wildlife sanctuary hosting millions of seabirds, including sooty terns and masked boobies. Some islets require permission to visit.
For divers and snorkelers, the waters are clear and lightly visited, though dive services are limited.
Tarawa suits history-minded couples. The battle there in November 1943 was among the bloodiest in US Marine Corps history. Rusting guns and bunkers still line the shore at Betio.
Whatever you choose, accept simple rooms, slow service and limited food. In return, you get places that feel untouched by travel.
Best Time to Visit
Kiribati is hot all year, with temperatures that sit around 85°F to 87°F in the afternoon and only slightly cooler at night. Rain varies by island group rather than season alone.
In the Gilberts, including Tarawa, the wetter months run roughly November to April, with westerly winds bringing storms. May to October is drier, with northeast trades keeping the heat manageable.
Kiritimati sits in an equatorial dry zone. Its driest months are usually August through December. Rain picks up from about January and peaks around April. Total rain is low but swings wildly between years; El Niño can bring several times the usual amount.
Fishing on Kiritimati works year-round, with the best combination of calm wind and clear water often found in the dry months. Surfers visit during the northern winter for swells.
Kiribati lies outside the main cyclone belt, though distant storms can bring high seas and flooding.
Where to Go
Kiritimati is the realistic choice for American couples because it is the only part of Kiribati with a direct link to the US. Our Kiritimati guide covers the flats, the bird islands, the lodges and the date line sunrise.
Tarawa, the capital atoll, is a long way from Kiritimati (more than 2,000 miles). Getting between them usually means routing through Fiji. Betio, at the southwest corner, holds the main World War II sites from the 1943 battle. North Tarawa, reached by boat, is quieter, with traditional villages and fewer cars.
Abaiang, just north of Tarawa, is a small, peaceful atoll with simple guesthouses and a slower pace.
The Phoenix Islands Protected Area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protects one of the largest marine reserves on earth. It is essentially out of reach for casual visitors and served only by rare expeditions.
For most couples, a week on Kiritimati, maybe paired with Hawaii, is the trip that makes sense.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
This plan pairs Kiritimati with Hawaii, which suits the single weekly flight.
Days 1 and 2: Fly to Honolulu and spend a couple of days on Oahu or a neighbor island to recover from the mainland leg.
Day 3: Fly Fiji Airways to Kiritimati, about three and a half hours. You land a calendar day later than you left because of the date line.
Days 4 to 9: Settle in for a week on the atoll. Fish the flats with a guide in the mornings, then rest through the hottest part of the day. Visit a seabird colony with permission. Snorkel or dive with the island's dive operator, join a village church service on Sunday and watch sunsets over the lagoon.
Day 10: Fly back to Honolulu on the next weekly flight, landing on the previous calendar date. Add a night or two in Hawaii to finish in comfort.
Budget and Costs
All amounts are approximate and change often.
- Flights: the weekly Fiji Airways flight from Honolulu is the main cost. Seats are limited.
- Fishing packages: most anglers book all-inclusive weeks on Kiritimati through fly-fishing travel agents. These typically include lodging, meals, guides and transfers. They are the biggest expense, often several thousand dollars per angler for the week.
- Lodging: rooms on Kiritimati are simple, with only a handful of hotels and lodges. Many sell full board packages.
- Food: meals are basic and often included in packages. Imported goods cost more.
- Cash: bring Australian dollars, since ATMs are rare and card acceptance limited.
Tarawa has a few small hotels and guesthouses with modest rates, though getting there from the US via Fiji adds significant cost. Plan on paying in cash for most local services and tips for guides.
Getting There and Around
Kiritimati is the gateway for US travelers. Fiji Airways flies Honolulu to Kiritimati about once a week on a route that continues to Nadi, a flight of roughly three and a half hours. Check the current schedule well ahead, since it has changed over the years.
Tarawa's Bonriki Airport has flights from Nadi, plus regional links through Majuro. Reaching Tarawa from Kiritimati typically means flying via Fiji.
On Kiritimati, one main road runs from Cassidy International Airport near Banana village through the main settlements, including London. Lodges usually arrange transfers. Local trucks and minibuses run along the road.
In South Tarawa, minibuses run the length of the causeway-linked islets. Air Kiribati and other small carriers serve some outer islands from Tarawa, but schedules can change.
Drive on the left in Kiribati. Expect slow speeds and crowded roads in Tarawa.
Culture and Etiquette
Say Mauri for hello and Ko rabwa for thank you. Both are well received.
The maneaba, a large open meeting house with a high thatched roof, is the heart of every village. If you are invited in, wait to be shown where to sit, sit on the mats and do not stand over seated elders. Visitors may be asked to give a small gift.
Dress conservatively in villages. Women should cover thighs and men should wear shirts. Swimwear is for the beach. Public affection is rare, so keep it to hand-holding.
Church is important. Sundays are quiet days for family and worship. Singing in Kiribati churches is powerful and visitors are usually welcome to attend.
Kiribati dance, with its sharp bird-like movements, is a point of pride. If you see a performance, watch closely.
On Kiritimati, remember that the nuclear tests of 1957 to 1962 affected residents. Rising seas also threaten the country's future. Listen respectfully when locals discuss either.
Quick tips
- Bring Australian dollars in cash from Fiji or home; ATMs are rare and many places do not take cards.
- Kiritimati runs on UTC+14: the same clock time as Honolulu but one calendar day ahead.
- Pack a water filter or plan on bottled water throughout. Carry a basic medical kit.
