Why Honeymoon in Ulcinj
Sand and space are the main draws. Velika Plaža is long enough that even in summer you can walk away from the crowds and find a quiet stretch.
The old town gives you somewhere atmospheric to sleep and eat. It was badly damaged in a 1979 earthquake and has been restored piece by piece, with small hotels and restaurants inside the walls.
Ulcinj has a colorful past. For centuries it was known as a pirates' port. Local legend links the writer Cervantes to a spell of captivity here.
It is also a gateway. Lake Skadar, the Albanian city of Shkodër and the Albanian Alps are all within reach. Prices are lower than on the northern coast, which helps stretch a honeymoon budget.
When to Go
June and September are the best months. The sea is warm, beaches are open and crowds are manageable. September often has the warmest water of the year.
July and August are hot and very busy, with families from Montenegro, Kosovo, Serbia and Albania filling the beaches and guesthouses. Book well ahead and expect lively evenings.
May and early October are pleasant for walking and eating, though the sea can be cool and some beach clubs are closed.
From November to April much of Ulcinj shuts down, especially around the beaches and Ada Bojana. The old town stays quiet. Winter is mild but wet. Summer afternoons are often windy along Velika Plaža, which is good for kitesurfers and less ideal for sunbathers.
Where to Stay
The old town is the most romantic base. A handful of restored stone buildings inside the walls now operate as boutique hotels and guesthouses, some with terraces over the sea. Rooms are often small with steep stairs.
Around the town center and Mala Plaža, the small beach below the old town, there are mid-range hotels and apartments with easy access to restaurants.
Along Velika Plaža, beach hotels and resort complexes sit behind the sand. They are convenient for long beach days but feel more remote from town.
Ada Bojana has simple bungalows and a few lodges set among trees, popular with kitesurfers. Part of the island has long been a naturist area, so check where your lodging sits if that matters to you.
Romantic Things to Do
Watch sunset from the old town walls with a drink in hand. The sun drops straight into the Adriatic.
Walk Velika Plaža early in the morning when the sand is empty and the light is soft.
Drive to Ada Bojana and eat fresh fish at one of the stilted restaurants along the river. Many couples call this their favorite meal of the trip.
Try kitesurfing. The steady afternoon winds near Ada Bojana make it one of the best spots in the Adriatic for lessons.
Swim at Valdanos, a sheltered cove surrounded by olive groves just north of town.
Visit the Ulcinj Salina, old salt pans that have become an important bird reserve, where flamingos are sometimes seen.
Getting There and Around
Podgorica Airport (TGD) is the closest, about an hour and a quarter by car. Tivat (TIV) is about two hours north along the coast. There are no nonstop flights from the US, so connect through a European hub or Istanbul. Tirana in Albania is also within a few hours by road.
A car is the easiest way to explore. Velika Plaža, Ada Bojana and Valdanos are spread out. Buses between them are limited. Taxis are plentiful in summer; agree on the fare before you go.
Buses connect Ulcinj with Bar, Budva and Podgorica. Minibuses run across the border to Shkodër in Albania. Bring your passports for the crossing, which can be slow on summer weekends.
Food and Drink
Seafood is the highlight. Grilled fish, squid, octopus and mussels are on every menu. Fish is usually sold by weight before cooking, so ask for the price per kilo and the weight of the fish you choose.
The river restaurants at Ada Bojana are known for fish straight from the water, simply grilled with olive oil and garlic.
Ulcinj's olive oil is excellent, from groves that have been farmed for centuries.
Much of the food is halal, reflecting the town's Muslim majority, so pork is rare. Alcohol is still widely available in restaurants and bars. Try Montenegrin wines such as Vranac and Krstač, or a cold local beer. Albanian-style grilled meats and fresh salads round out the options.
Honeymoon Tips
Avoid the first two weeks of August if you can. That is the busiest time on the whole coast.
Check the beach flags along Velika Plaža. On windy days, currents can be strong.
Bring cash. Small restaurants and beach bars sometimes do not take cards.
Dress modestly when visiting mosques, covering shoulders and knees. Remove your shoes inside.
If you want quiet, choose a hotel inside the old town walls rather than on the main road, where summer traffic and music run late.
Combine Ulcinj with Lake Skadar and the Bay of Kotor. A week in Montenegro can easily cover all three.
