Why Honeymoon in Crete
Crete rewards couples who like variety. One morning you are wandering a 14th-century fortress. The next you are swimming in the warm shallows of Balos lagoon or eating lunch in a mountain village where the menu is whatever the owner's mother cooked.
The east has some of the best luxury resorts in Greece. Phāea Blue near Elounda, formerly Blue Palace, has rooms with private pools facing the sea. So does Daios Cove near Agios Nikolaos.
Cretan culture has a strong identity of its own. Hospitality is serious here. Expect a free glass of raki at the end of dinner and possibly a plate of fruit you did not order.
Finally, Crete has a wedding dish. Gamopilafo, rice cooked in a rich meat broth, is traditionally served at Cretan weddings. Ask for it.
When to Go
The best months are May, June, September and early October. The sea is warm from late May, the hills are still green in spring and the heat is manageable for hiking and sightseeing.
July and August are hot, especially inland and around Heraklion. Beaches such as Balos and Elafonisi get very crowded in midday hours. The good news is that Crete's size absorbs visitors better than smaller islands do.
Samaria Gorge usually opens from around May to October, depending on weather and water levels. It closes on days of high wind or heat. Check before planning around it.
April and late October are excellent for walking and visiting archaeological sites. Swimming is cooler but possible on warm days. Winter brings rain and many resort closures, though Chania and Heraklion stay lively year round.
Where to Stay
In the west, base yourselves in or near Chania. Boutique hotels in restored Venetian and Ottoman houses line the old town lanes. Stay on a quiet street a block or two back from the harbor for the best mix of atmosphere and sleep. Beach resorts along the coast to the west and on the Akrotiri peninsula are another option.
In the east, Elounda and the coast around Agios Nikolaos have the island's best luxury resorts. Expect bungalows and suites with private pools, spa days and calm water in the Gulf of Mirabello. A boutique room in Chania's old town usually costs far less than a private-pool suite here, so splitting the stay also helps the budget.
For something different, spend one or two nights on the south coast. Car-free Loutro, reached by boat, is a small whitewashed village on a quiet bay. Mountain villages near Chania and inland from Heraklion also offer guesthouses in old stone homes.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Venetian harbor in Chania at sunset, out along the breakwater to the old lighthouse. Then lose yourselves in the old town lanes for dinner.
Drive or take a boat to Balos, a shallow lagoon on the Gramvousa peninsula in the far northwest. The water is pale turquoise and warm. Go early or late to avoid the boat crowds. Elafonisi, in the southwest, has shallow water and patches of pinkish sand and is protected for its dunes.
In the east, take a boat from Plaka or Elounda to Spinalonga, a Venetian sea fortress later used as a leper colony. It is moving and beautiful.
Visit Knossos early in the morning before the tour buses. Spend the afternoon in the wine villages south of Heraklion for tastings and lunch. Active couples can hike Samaria Gorge, about 16 kilometers to the Libyan Sea.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to Crete. Most couples fly to Athens and connect on a domestic flight of about an hour to Heraklion or Chania. In summer, many European airlines fly direct to both, which can make a single connection through a European hub easier. Overnight ferries from Piraeus to Heraklion and to Souda, the port for Chania, are another option.
A rental car is essential for most honeymoons on Crete. The north coast highway links Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos. Chania to Heraklion takes around two hours. Mountain and south coast roads are slower and winding, so allow extra time and avoid driving them after dark when tired. Buses connect the main towns but do not reach most beaches or villages easily.
Food and Drink
Crete is one of the best places to eat in Greece. Start with dakos, a barley rusk topped with grated tomato, soft mizithra cheese and olive oil. Try kalitsounia, small cheese pies sometimes sweetened with honey. In Chania, look for boureki, a baked dish of zucchini, potato and cheese. Staka, a rich butter and flour dish, is often served with eggs or pilaf.
Olive oil here is excellent and often comes from the family's own trees. Wild greens, snails and slow-cooked lamb appear on village menus.
Cretan wine has improved enormously. Look for the white Vidiano and the red Liatiko and Kotsifali grapes. Wineries in the Peza and Archanes area south of Heraklion offer tastings. Expect raki, also called tsikoudia, at the end of almost every meal.
Honeymoon Tips
Do not try to see all of Crete in a short trip. Choose two bases at most, such as Chania and Elounda. Accept that the rest can wait for an anniversary.
Book resort stays early for June and September, when the best private pool rooms go first.
Start beach days early. Balos and Elafonisi are best before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
Drive defensively. Local drivers often use the hard shoulder to let faster cars pass. Mountain roads have goats around corners.
Carry some cash for village tavernas and kiosks.
If you hike Samaria Gorge, book a tour that includes the bus and the boat back, since the hike ends at a coastal village with no road out.
