Why Montserrat for a Honeymoon
The volcano is the main reason. The Soufrière Hills have been active since 1995. The landscape it created is unlike anything else in the region. From Jack Boy Hill on the east and Garibaldi Hill on the west, you can look across ash plains to the old airport and the half-buried roofs of Plymouth. With a permit and an approved guide, limited tours into the edge of the zone have sometimes been possible.
The north is lush and peaceful. The Centre Hills are crisscrossed with trails. The coast is a string of small black and gray sand beaches. Rendezvous Bay, the island's only light sand beach, is reached by boat or a hike from Little Bay.
Then there is the pace. You can drive the island in an afternoon, stop for a chat at a rum shop and be back at your villa for sunset. Montserrat is about time together, not a schedule of activities.
Best Time to Visit
December through April is the driest and most comfortable time, with temperatures typically from the mid 70s to the high 80s Fahrenheit and steady breezes. It is also when trails in the Centre Hills are firmest.
March is the most festive month. Montserrat celebrates St. Patrick's Day as a public holiday, with a week of events that mark both Irish heritage and a 1768 uprising by enslaved people. Book rooms well ahead if you want to be there.
July through November is wetter and coincides with hurricane season. The Calabash Festival in July and the annual festival that runs over Christmas and New Year add color to the calendar.
The volcano itself does not follow seasons. Activity is monitored constantly by the Montserrat Volcano Observatory. Access to the hazard zones can change at short notice. Check the current map before planning excursions in the south.
Where to Go
Little Bay is the island's port and emerging capital, where the ferry arrives and where you will find the cultural center, a dive shop and access to Rendezvous Bay. It is the subject of our Little Bay guide.
Woodlands and Salem, on the west coast, are where many villas and guesthouses sit. They have sunset views, Woodlands Beach below and a few of the island's better restaurants nearby.
Olveston, just south, has Olveston House, the former home of Beatles producer Sir George Martin, now a small inn. Martin's AIR Studios, where many famous albums were recorded, was damaged by Hurricane Hugo in 1989 and now sits in ruins.
For views of the volcano, head to Jack Boy Hill and Garibaldi Hill. Then visit the Montserrat Volcano Observatory for a short film and a look out over the dome. Hikers should walk the Oriole Walkway in the Centre Hills to spot the national bird.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
Most couples are best served by splitting time between Montserrat and Antigua.
Days 1 to 4: Antigua. Fly into Antigua and stay at a beach resort to recover from the trip. Spend a day at English Harbour and Shirley Heights for the Sunday sunset party.
Day 5: Cross to Montserrat on the short flight or the ferry. Settle into a villa in Woodlands or Salem and watch the sunset.
Day 6: Visit the Volcano Observatory, then drive to Jack Boy Hill for views of the ash flows over the old airport.
Day 7: Take a boat or hike to Rendezvous Bay for a swim and picnic, then stop at a beach bar in Little Bay.
Day 8: Walk the Oriole Walkway and have lunch at a local spot. Try goat water stew.
Days 9 and 10: Snorkel or dive, take a boat tour around the island and return to Antigua for your flight home.
Budget and Costs
Montserrat is relatively affordable once you arrive, but getting there adds cost. These figures are approximate.
Guesthouses and small inns usually charge around $100 to $200 a night. Private villas with pools, which suit honeymooners best, often run about $200 to $500 a night. Taxes of around 7 to 10 percent are commonly added.
The flight from Antigua has typically cost a little over $100 each way per person. The ferry is cheaper. Both have limited schedules, so lock them in early.
Rental cars generally run around $50 to $70 a day, plus a temporary driving permit of about $20.
Meals at local restaurants are reasonable. Many guesthouses cook dinner on request. Groceries are more expensive than on Antigua, since most goods are imported. Boat tours and guided hikes usually cost between $50 and $100 per person. Bring cash, since not every business takes cards.
Getting There and Around
All routes go through Antigua. V.C. Bird International Airport (ANU) has nonstops from several US cities, including New York and Miami. From there, Fly Montserrat runs small planes to John A. Osborne Airport in the north of the island, a flight of around 15 minutes. Luggage limits are tight on these aircraft, so pack light or ship extras ahead.
A fast ferry from Antigua to Little Bay takes about 90 minutes, but schedules change and sailings may not run every day. Confirm close to travel.
On the island, renting a car gives the most freedom. Driving is on the left, roads are narrow and hilly and there is one main road around the safe zone. You need a temporary local permit, issued at police stations.
Taxis are available and drivers double as guides. Buses run mostly in the daytime. Plan on a car if you are staying in a villa.
Culture and Etiquette
Montserrat feels like a close-knit village where visitors are noticed. Greet people with good morning or good afternoon before asking anything. Waving to passing cars on country roads is common.
The Irish connection is real. Many family names and place names date to Irish settlers in the 1600s. The shamrock turns up on the passport stamp and Erin with her harp sits on the flag. African heritage runs just as deep, celebrated in music, food and the St. Patrick's festivities.
The volcano is a sensitive subject. Many residents lost homes, land and livelihoods. Thousands left the island for good. Show respect when visiting viewpoints or the exclusion zone. Never enter restricted areas without permission.
Dress modestly in town and save swimwear for the beach. Mosquitoes can carry dengue; if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you go. Medical care on the island is basic, so buy travel insurance that covers evacuation to Antigua or beyond. Sunday is quiet, with many shops closed and churches full. Tip guides and taxi drivers for good service.
Quick tips
- Pair Montserrat with a few nights on Antigua
- Buy a temporary driving permit at the police station
- Check the volcano hazard map before exploring south
