Why Honeymoon in Cilaos
Most romantic mountain towns are about the view. Cilaos is about being inside the view. The cirque walls rise more than a thousand meters on all sides. From almost anywhere in town you look up at cliffs, waterfalls and ridges.
It balances effort and comfort well. You can spend a morning hiking to a viewpoint or canyoning down a gorge, then return for a massage, a thermal soak and a long Creole dinner with a bottle of local wine. Evenings are cool enough for a sweater, a welcome change from the humid coast.
It is also the starting point for the island's signature adventure, the overnight climb to the summit of Piton des Neiges for sunrise. Watching the first light hit the cirques and the distant ocean from 3,070 meters is a moment couples remember. Cilaos suits active couples who want their honeymoon to include real mountain air.
When to Go
May to November is the best time. The dry season brings clearer skies, safer trails and comfortable hiking temperatures. June to August are the coolest months, with crisp mornings and nights that can approach freezing at the highest refuges, so pack warm layers.
September to November is excellent too, with warmer days and mostly dry trails. October is a favorite for hiking.
December to April is the rainy season and Cilaos gets a great deal of it. The town holds a world record for rainfall in 24 hours, set in January 1966. Heavy rain can trigger rockfalls on the RN5 and close trails. Cyclones are a risk from about January to March.
Whatever the season, plan outdoor activities for the morning. Clouds usually build over the cirque by late morning or early afternoon.
Where to Stay
Cilaos has a good range of small hotels, guesthouses and gîtes, mostly in and around the town center. Many have views of the cirque walls. A few offer spas or fireplaces, which are welcome on winter evenings.
Chambres d'hôtes, the French version of a bed and breakfast, are a lovely option for couples. Hosts often serve Creole dinners featuring local lentils, cari and homemade rum.
For something more remote, look at the small hamlet of Îlet à Cordes, a short drive from town, where a few guesthouses sit among terraced fields.
If you plan to climb Piton des Neiges, book a bed at the mountain refuge at Caverne Dufour well in advance, especially for weekends and French school holidays. The refuge is basic, with dormitory bunks and shared facilities, but it is the only way to reach the summit for sunrise without starting in the middle of the night.
Romantic Things to Do
Climb Piton des Neiges. From the Le Bloc trailhead near town, hike about three to four hours up to the Caverne Dufour refuge, spend the night and set off before dawn for the summit, roughly 90 minutes more. The view at sunrise is the highlight of many trips to Réunion.
For shorter hikes, walk to the Roche Merveilleuse viewpoint for a panorama over the cirque, visit the Bras Rouge waterfall or take the trail to the small lake of Mare à Joncs.
Book a canyoning trip with a licensed guide. Cilaos has some of the best canyons on the island, with jumps, slides and abseils into clear pools.
After all that effort, soak in the thermal baths or book a massage at the spa. Visit the local wine cellar for a tasting and browse the embroidery sold in town.
Getting There and Around
Cilaos is reached by the RN5 from Saint-Louis on the south coast. The road is about 35 kilometers long but takes roughly an hour because of its hairpin bends, narrow sections and single-lane tunnels where you need to honk before entering. Drive slowly and avoid it at night.
From Roland Garros Airport near Saint-Denis, the drive takes about two to two and a half hours. Pierrefonds Airport near Saint-Pierre is closer, but it handles mainly regional flights.
Buses run from Saint-Louis to Cilaos several times a day and are a good option if you prefer not to drive the road yourself.
In town, most things are walkable. For hikes, you may need a car or taxi to reach some trailheads. Hikers can also cross into the neighboring Mafate cirque on foot via the Col du Taïbit pass.
Food and Drink
Cilaos is famous across Réunion for its lentils, grown on small terraced plots in the cirque. Small and flavorful, they appear in almost every Creole meal, often cooked with garlic, onion and spices to accompany cari or rougail.
Cari is the island's signature dish, a curry of chicken, pork, fish or duck simmered with tomato, turmeric and thyme. Rougail saucisse, sausages cooked in a tomato and chili sauce, is another staple.
Cilaos also produces wine, mostly white and rosé, from vineyards on steep slopes. It is a curiosity rather than a fine wine, but tasting it in the town where it is grown is part of the fun.
For dessert, try local cakes or a glass of rhum arrangé, rum infused with fruit, vanilla or spices. Many restaurants and guesthouses make their own blends.
Honeymoon Tips
Start early every day. The best light and clearest skies are in the morning. Afternoon clouds often hide the peaks.
Pack warm layers, a rain jacket and good hiking shoes, especially for the climb to Piton des Neiges. Temperatures at the summit can drop below freezing before dawn.
Book the refuge, canyoning guides and popular restaurants in advance, particularly during French school holidays.
If the road makes you nervous, take the bus or hire a driver for the trip up.
Check trail conditions before you go. The island's official sources post closures after rain or rockfalls.
Combine Cilaos with a few days on the west coast. After hiking, a lagoon swim at L'Hermitage or Saint-Leu makes a good finish.
Carry cash for small guesthouses and shops, as not all accept cards.