Why Honeymoon in Madrid
Madrid rewards couples who like cities with a bit of swagger. The Prado holds Velázquez's Las Meninas, Goya's black paintings and a whole room of Bosch, while the Reina Sofía across the boulevard has Picasso's Guernica. The Thyssen-Bornemisza fills in everything between. You can see the highlights of all three in two mornings and spend the afternoons doing nothing in particular.
The rest of the city is about neighborhoods. Barrio de las Letras is full of wine bars on literary streets. La Latina has the Sunday Rastro flea market followed by vermouth at standing counters. Salamanca is grand and polished with designer shops.
It also has real value. A very good hotel in Madrid often costs less than its equivalent in Paris or London, while a long tapas dinner for two can cost less than a single main course back home.
When to Go
April through June and mid September through October are the best times. Days run from the mid 60s to the low 80s Fahrenheit, terraces are full and the light on the stone buildings turns gold in the evening.
Madrid sits around 2,100 feet above sea level, which gives it a dry continental climate. July and August are hot, often in the upper 90s and sometimes past 100°F. Many family restaurants close for part of August while locals head to the coast. The city is quieter and hotel rates drop, so it can work if you plan museum mornings and long siestas.
Winter is cold and crisp, with nights near freezing and bright blue skies. December has lights along the main shopping streets and short lines at the museums.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the old center so you can walk home after dinner. Barrio de las Letras, between Puerta del Sol and the Prado, puts the museums and the best tapas streets on your doorstep. The area around Gran Vía and Chueca has more nightlife and rooftop bars. Salamanca, north of Retiro Park, is calmer with wide streets.
Madrid's luxury scene has grown fast. Four Seasons Madrid occupies a group of restored bank buildings near Puerta del Sol. The Mandarin Oriental Ritz sits beside the Prado in a grand 1910 building, while Rosewood Villa Magna is in Salamanca. Expect roughly $600 to $1,500 a night at that level, as an approximate range.
Smaller design hotels and restored apartments in Las Letras cost far less. Ask for an interior room if you are light sleepers, since street noise carries late.
Romantic Things to Do
Book the Prado for opening time and go straight to the Velázquez rooms before the groups arrive. In the afternoon, rent a rowboat on the Estanque Grande in Retiro Park, then walk to the Palacio de Cristal, a glass pavilion that hosts free art shows.
Watch the sunset from the Templo de Debod, a real Egyptian temple given to Spain in the 1960s and rebuilt on a hill near the Royal Palace. Then head to a rooftop. The terrace of the Círculo de Bellas Artes looks straight down Gran Vía and Calle de Alcalá.
On Sunday, browse the Rastro and drift into La Latina for vermouth and small plates. After a late dinner, join the line at Chocolatería San Ginés for churros dipped in thick chocolate. Book a flamenco tablao if you will not see one in Andalusia.
Getting There and Around
Madrid-Barajas (MAD) has nonstop flights from cities including New York, Newark, Boston, Washington, Miami, Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Philadelphia and Los Angeles. East Coast flights take about seven to eight hours.
From the airport, taxis charge a fixed fare to the center, roughly €33 as an approximate figure. Metro Line 8 and the 24-hour Airport Express bus are cheaper options.
The center is compact and walkable. The metro is cheap and easy to use. You will not want a car. Madrid is also the hub of Spain's high-speed rail network. Toledo is about 35 minutes away, Segovia around 30, Córdoba under two hours and Seville about two and a half, with trains leaving from Atocha or Chamartín. Book trains on the Renfe, Iryo or Ouigo sites for the best fares.
Food and Drink
Eating well in Madrid is mostly about the bar counter. Order a caña (small beer) or a glass of vermouth and you will often get a small free tapa with it. Classic bites include patatas bravas, croquetas de jamón, garlic shrimp and the bocadillo de calamares, a fried squid sandwich sold near Plaza Mayor.
For a sit-down meal, try cocido madrileño, a chickpea stew served in courses, best at lunch on a cold day. Sobrino de Botín, founded in 1725, roasts suckling pig and lamb in a wood oven and is often called the oldest restaurant in the world.
The Mercado de San Miguel is pretty but busy. For a more local market, go to Mercado de San Fernando in Lavapiés or Mercado de la Paz in Salamanca. Book special dinners for 9:30 p.m. or later.
Honeymoon Tips
- Buy Prado and Royal Palace tickets online a few days ahead in spring and fall.
- Watch your phones and bags in Puerta del Sol, on the metro and around the Rastro, where pickpockets work the crowds.
- Licensed white taxis with a red stripe are easy to hail at night. Ride apps also work.
- Dress codes are relaxed, but smart casual goes further at good restaurants and rooftops.
- Lunch menus (menú del día) on weekdays are a bargain and the best way to eat a big meal cheaply.
- Plan a lazy first day. Long-haul flights land in the morning, so a nap before a late dinner sets your clock fast.
- Stores in the center open on Sundays, but many smaller shops close for the afternoon on weekdays.
