Why Honeymoon in Córdoba
In the 10th century Córdoba was one of the largest and most sophisticated cities in Europe, the capital of the Umayyad caliphate in Spain. Much of what made it great still stands. The Mezquita-Catedral covers a city block. The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos has terraced gardens with long pools and cypress trees. Outside town, the ruins of Medina Azahara show a palace city built by a caliph, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The historic center is compact and mostly pedestrian, which makes for easy, unhurried days. Many couples visit Córdoba only as a day trip from Seville. Staying overnight is the better choice, since the lanes turn quiet once tour groups leave and you can walk to dinner along streets lit by iron lanterns.
When to Go
April and May are the best months. Orange trees bloom in spring. In early May the city celebrates the Cruces de Mayo and then the Fiesta de los Patios, when dozens of private courtyards open to visitors. Hotels fill quickly during the festival, so book well ahead.
Late September through November is also lovely, with warm days and cool nights. Winter is mild and sunny, with highs around 60°F, though nights get chilly and old buildings can feel cold inside.
Summer is the problem. Córdoba sits in the hottest part of the Guadalquivir valley. From mid June to early September, afternoon highs above 100°F are common. If you must visit then, sightsee from opening time until noon, rest through the afternoon and go back out after 9 p.m.
Where to Stay
Stay in or right beside the Judería, so you can walk to the Mezquita at opening time and back to your room in the heat of the afternoon. The streets around the Plaza de la Corredera and San Pedro are a little farther out but quieter, with good local tapas bars.
Córdoba's best hotels are restored houses built around patios. Hospes Palacio del Bailío occupies a 16th-century palace with Roman remains visible beneath glass floors and a small spa. Balcón de Córdoba is an intimate boutique hotel near the Mezquita with a roof terrace facing the bell tower.
As a rough guide, good boutique rooms cost about $150 to $350 a night, with prices rising during the patio festival. A pool or plunge pool is worth the extra money between June and September.
Romantic Things to Do
Enter the Mezquita as early as possible, while the light filters softly through the arches and the hall is close to empty. Climb the bell tower afterward for views over the tiled roofs.
Walk the gardens of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos in the late afternoon, when the fountains and orange trees are in shade. Cross the Roman bridge to the Calahorra Tower at sunset, then turn around for the view back to the Mezquita.
Book an evening at Hammam Al Ándalus, a bathhouse with warm, hot and cold pools under brick arches, with massages as an extra. Visit the Palacio de Viana, a mansion with a dozen different patios. Take a half day for Medina Azahara, about 5 miles west of the center, where a shuttle bus runs from town.
Getting There and Around
Córdoba has no commercial flights to speak of. Fly into Madrid on a nonstop from the US, then ride the high-speed train to Córdoba in about one hour 45 minutes. Seville is only about 45 minutes away by fast train, while Málaga and Granada are each roughly one to one and a half hours.
The train station is a 20-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the old town. Inside the historic center you will walk everywhere. Many streets in the Judería are too narrow for cars, so a taxi may drop you a few minutes from your hotel.
You do not need a car unless you are continuing to the white villages or the Sierra de Córdoba. If you are driving, park in a garage outside the center, since the old town has restricted traffic zones.
Food and Drink
Córdoba has a proud food culture. Salmorejo, the thick cold tomato soup topped with ham and egg, comes from here and is made best in its home city. Try flamenquín, a rolled pork cutlet stuffed with ham and fried, plus rabo de toro, the slow-cooked oxtail stew.
The local wine region is Montilla-Moriles, which makes fino and sweet Pedro Ximénez wines similar to sherry. A chilled glass before dinner is the tradition. Old taverns, some with barrels stacked behind the bar, pour them by the glass.
Taberna culture runs deep. Sit in a patio bar in the Judería for lunch, or head to the streets around San Lorenzo and Santa Marina for a more local scene. Dinner starts around 9 p.m. or later.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book Mezquita tickets ahead and choose the first slot of the day.
- Cover shoulders and knees inside the Mezquita-Catedral, which is a working cathedral.
- Check the dates of the patio festival before booking, since it changes slightly each year and hotels fill fast.
- Carry water and wear a hat from May through September. The heat builds quickly.
- Pair Córdoba with Seville and Granada for an easy loop by train.
- The Mezquita's night show, when offered, is a different and quieter way to see the arches.
- Many patios on the festival map close at lunchtime, so plan your route in the morning or evening.
