Why Honeymoon in the Belgian Ardennes
The Ardennes gives you a quieter Belgium. After the crowds of Bruges, the valleys feel spacious and green. Most days follow a pleasant rhythm: a castle or a walk in the morning, a long lunch, a paddle on the river or a spa visit, then dinner at your inn.
It works for different tastes. Active partners can hike forest trails, mountain bike or kayak the Ourthe and Lesse. Others can browse antique shops, tour castles and abbeys or relax in the thermal baths at Spa.
History adds depth. The region was the setting for the Battle of the Bulge in the winter of 1944–45. Museums at Bastogne and La Roche tell the story.
And the food is excellent: game, local ham, rich sauces and some of the world's most respected beers.
When to Go
May, June and September are the best months. The forests are green, days are mild and the rivers are good for kayaking. Highs are typically in the 60s and low 70s°F.
July and August are warmest but busy with Belgian and Dutch families on vacation, especially in Durbuy and La Roche on weekends.
October is a favorite for couples. The forests turn gold and red, hunting season begins and restaurants put game like venison and wild boar on their menus.
Winter is cold, damp and often gray. Higher areas sometimes get snow for cross-country skiing. Many attractions keep shorter hours, but cozy inns with fireplaces can make a winter weekend appealing.
Where to Stay
Durbuy is the most romantic base, with small hotels and guesthouses in stone buildings. Le Sanglier des Ardennes, a long-established hotel-restaurant in the old town, is a well-known choice for couples.
La Roche-en-Ardenne is livelier and suits active couples who want to kayak and hike. Bouillon, in the far south near the French border, is quieter and ideal if you plan to explore the Semois valley and Orval.
Across the region, you can also stay in country manor houses, converted farms and forest cabins. Many offer spas or restaurants on site.
Book ahead for summer and autumn weekends. Expect roughly $130–$280 a night for a good double, approximate.
Romantic Things to Do
- Walk Durbuy's lanes at dusk, then visit its topiary park, with hundreds of clipped shrubs shaped into figures.
- Rent a kayak and paddle down the Ourthe from La Roche or the Lesse near Dinant.
- Explore Bouillon Castle, one of the oldest fortresses in Belgium, above a loop of the Semois River.
- Visit Orval Abbey to see the medieval ruins and taste its Trappist beer and cheese.
- Soak at the Thermes de Spa, reached by funicular from the town center.
- Learn about the Battle of the Bulge at the Bastogne War Museum.
- Hike forest trails to viewpoints over the valleys.
Getting There and Around
Brussels Airport (BRU) has nonstop flights from several US cities, including New York, Washington Dulles, Chicago, Atlanta and Philadelphia. From the airport, Durbuy is about an hour and a half by car.
A rental car is the best way to explore the Ardennes. Villages, castles and trailheads are spread out. Public transport is limited. Roads are good but winding in the valleys.
Trains reach some towns, including Barvaux near Durbuy and Spa, but connections are slow. If you do not want to drive, consider basing yourselves in one town and joining local tours or renting bikes.
Pair the Ardennes with Bruges or Ghent for a balanced trip of art cities and countryside.
Food and Drink
Ardennes cooking is hearty. Look for jambon d'Ardenne, a cured and smoked ham, plus trout from local rivers and game in autumn. Many restaurants serve classic French-Belgian dishes with rich sauces.
Beer is central. Orval, brewed by monks at Orval Abbey, is a famous Trappist beer. The region also has many small breweries. Try the local beer with each meal.
Don't miss Belgian fries and waffles, as well as chocolate shops in the towns.
Expect dinner for two with drinks around $100–$200 at a good restaurant, approximate. Book weekend dinners in Durbuy, which fill quickly.
Honeymoon Tips
Plan at least three or four nights so you can see more than one valley without rushing.
Visit Durbuy on a weekday if you can. On summer weekends, it can be crowded with day-trippers.
Bring good walking shoes for cobbled streets and forest trails. Pack layers, since valley mornings can be misty and cool.
Kayak trips on the Ourthe depend on water levels. Check with outfitters before you go, especially in dry summers.
Much of the region speaks French. Learn a few words. English is common in tourist businesses but less so in small villages.
