Why Honeymoon in the Middle Rhine Valley
Castles are everywhere and several take overnight guests. Waking up in a tower room with the Rhine below is a story you will tell for years and the prices are often lower than a big-city luxury hotel.
The scenery changes around every bend. The Loreley, a cliff at the river's narrowest and deepest point, gave rise to the legend of a siren luring boatmen onto the rocks. Pfalzgrafenstein, a toll castle on an island, looks like a stone ship moored mid-river.
The wine is another draw. The steep slate slopes produce elegant, mineral Riesling and the neighboring Rheingau around Rüdesheim is one of Germany's most famous Riesling regions. Tasting rooms are small and personal, often run by the family that picks the grapes.
When to Go
May to early October is the main season. Riverboats run their full schedules, wine taverns are open and long evenings make terrace dinners easy. June and September are the sweet spots, with warm days and fewer tour groups than July and August.
September and October bring the harvest and wine festivals in many villages. The Rhein in Flammen events, with illuminated boats and fireworks over the river, take place on several summer weekends at different towns; check the dates if you want to see one and book early.
From November to March most riverboats stop, many smaller hotels and taverns close and the valley can be gray and quiet. December has Christmas markets, notably in Rüdesheim, which can make a cozy short break.
Where to Stay
Bacharach is the classic base, with a medieval wall, half-timbered houses and plenty of wine taverns in a town you can walk across in 15 minutes. Oberwesel, just downstream, has the most complete town walls and a castle hotel, Burg Schönburg, on the hill above.
St. Goar sits under Rheinfels, the largest castle ruin on the river, part of which is now a hotel with a pool and restaurant. It is close to the Loreley and well placed for boats in both directions.
Boppard is bigger, with a long riverside promenade and a chairlift to a famous viewpoint over a loop in the river. Rüdesheim, at the southern end, is the busiest town and has the most nightlife, but day crowds fill its lanes in summer. Choose a castle or a quiet riverfront room rather than the main tourist strips.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a KD riverboat or one of the local lines between Bingen or Rüdesheim and St. Goar or Koblenz. The stretch past the Loreley is the most dramatic; sit outside on the upper deck with a glass of wine.
Tour Marksburg above Braubach, the only hilltop castle on the Middle Rhine never destroyed, with original kitchens, armor and a view down the gorge. Rheinfels at St. Goar has tunnels and ruins to explore.
Hike part of the Rheinsteig, the long trail along the east bank, or its sister trail on the west side. Short sections link villages with vineyard viewpoints and you can ride the train or boat back.
In Rüdesheim, ride the cable car over the vineyards to the Niederwald monument for the view, then walk down through the vines to a wine tavern.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Frankfurt, which has nonstops from a long list of US cities. From the airport, trains reach Rüdesheim and Bingen in about an hour and continue down the valley. Driving takes a similar time.
In the valley, the combination of trains and boats makes a car optional. Rail lines run along both banks, with frequent regional services stopping in every town. Riverboats run from spring to autumn and can be used one way, so you can boat downstream and train back.
Ferries cross the river at several points, including between Bingen and Rüdesheim and between St. Goar and St. Goarshausen. A car helps for castle hotels on hilltops, though most will pick you up from the station if you ask.
Food and Drink
This is wine country first. Local Riesling ranges from bone dry to gently sweet; the word trocken on the label means dry. Order a tasting flight in a Weinstube and ask what comes from the slopes you can see.
The food is hearty Rhineland cooking. Look for Rheinischer Sauerbraten, beef marinated for days and braised in a sweet and sour sauce and Flammkuchen, a thin tart of cream, onion and bacon that goes perfectly with a cold glass of wine.
In Rüdesheim, try Rüdesheimer Kaffee, served with local brandy that is flamed at the table and topped with whipped cream. Seasonal treats include white asparagus in spring and new wine, called Federweisser, with onion tart in the autumn.
Honeymoon Tips
Trains run on both banks and are very loud for riverfront hotels, especially freight at night. Ask for a quieter room, or stay high up in a castle.
Riverboats are slower upstream than down. Plan to go downstream by boat and return by train to save time.
The climbs to castles are steep. Bring comfortable shoes and allow extra time on hot days.
The valley's hotels and taverns are often family-run with limited hours, so book dinner and check closing days, especially early in the week.
Germany has a Level 2 State Department advisory for terrorism. The valley's villages are quiet and very safe; stay alert in crowds at large festivals. Entry and visa rules depend on your citizenship and can change at short notice, so check the official government website before you book.
