Why Honeymoon on Direction Island
Direction Island delivers the classic desert island scene in a real, uncrowded form. There are no sunbeds for rent, no music and no vendors. There is just the beach, the palms and the lagoon. For a couple, that can be the most romantic thing about it.
The snorkeling adds adventure. The Rip is a natural channel where the incoming tide pushes clear ocean water through a gap in the reef. Floating with the current over coral, you may see blacktip and whitetip reef sharks, turtles and huge schools of fish. It is exciting without being extreme, provided you go at the right tide.
The island also has a story. A telegraph cable station operated here from 1901 and drew a German raiding party from the cruiser Emden in 1914, a brief and dramatic episode in the First World War. Today, quiet picnic shelters and old relics remain where the station stood.
When to Go
The best time for Direction Island is roughly August to December, when rain is lower and sunny days are more reliable. October is usually the driest month. Late in the year, winds often ease, making the lagoon calm and The Rip easier to snorkel.
The southeast trade winds blow much of the year. They keep temperatures comfortable but can make the water choppy, especially in the middle months. Kitesurfers love them, but snorkelers may prefer calmer days.
January to May is wetter and more humid, with April typically the rainiest month and a small risk of cyclones early in the year. You can still visit, but weather may cancel boat trips or make the crossing uncomfortable.
Whatever the month, plan around the ferry schedule and the tides. The Rip is best snorkeled on an incoming tide, so ask local operators about the best times on the day you visit.
Where to Stay
There is no accommodation on Direction Island. You visit as a day trip and stay on West Island, where the airport and nearly all accommodation sit.
West Island's options include self-contained units, lodges and a few small resorts, many with lagoon or ocean views. Couples often prefer places on the lagoon side, where sunsets are calmer and the water is good for swimming and paddling. Rooms are limited across the whole territory, so book early, particularly for peak months and Australian school holidays.
Some visitors arrive by yacht and anchor in Port Refuge off Direction Island, a sheltered anchorage used by sailors crossing the Indian Ocean. If you are sailing on a private or chartered yacht, this is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the region, though you still need to follow local rules and check in with authorities.
For most honeymooners, a comfortable West Island base and two or three Direction Island days work best.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend a slow morning on Cossies Beach. Swim in the clear lagoon, walk the length of the sand and lie in the shade of the palms. Bring a picnic and plenty of water.
Snorkel The Rip on the incoming tide. Enter at the recommended spot and drift with the current over coral gardens, watching for reef sharks, turtles and schools of fish. Go with a local guide or follow their advice on timing and entry points.
Walk the island's trails to see relics from the cable station era and look for markers recalling the 1914 Emden raid. The island is small, so you can explore much of it on foot in an hour or two.
Look for the picnic shelter hung with boards and signs left by visiting yacht crews over the years. Then stay for the late afternoon light on the lagoon before the ferry home.
Getting There and Around
Direction Island is reached by the inter-island ferry or by boat tour. The ferry connects West Island, Home Island and Direction Island, but it serves Direction Island only on certain days. Check the current timetable as soon as you arrive in Cocos. Then plan your visits around it.
From West Island, the trip usually includes a stop at Home Island. The whole crossing takes around an hour. Some tour operators also run boat trips to Direction Island, sometimes combined with snorkeling at The Rip or visits to other islands.
To reach Cocos itself, fly from Perth on QantasLink, which serves the islands a few times a week, some flights via Christmas Island. From the US, connect through an east coast Australian city to Perth.
On Direction Island, you walk. Paths are short and the island is small. Bring everything you need, including water, food, sunscreen and snorkel gear.
Food and Drink
There is nowhere to buy food or drink on Direction Island. Pack a picnic before you leave West Island. Shops there stock basics, though prices are high and supply depends on shipping schedules.
Many couples put together a simple beach lunch of bread, cheese, fruit and snacks, plus plenty of water. Some accommodation can prepare picnic boxes if you ask in advance. The island has picnic shelters and, at last report, barbecues, so you can cook if you bring supplies.
On West Island, a few cafes and a club serve meals, with hours that can vary. On Home Island, look for Cocos Malay food, often featuring rice, curries, satay and seafood. Ask locally which places are open.
Alcohol is available on West Island. If you plan a celebratory drink on Direction Island, keep it low-key and take all rubbish back with you. Do not bring alcohol when passing through Home Island, which is a conservative Muslim community.
Honeymoon Tips
Check the ferry and tide times before anything else. They shape your Direction Island day and your chance to snorkel The Rip safely.
Take snorkel gear, reef shoes, a rash guard and reef-safe sunscreen. The sun is strong and shade is limited away from the palms.
Respect the currents. The Rip can be fast at peak flow. Snorkel only at recommended times, stay together and never go alone. If in doubt, join a guided trip.
Take all rubbish home. Facilities are basic and the environment is fragile. Do not take coral or shells.
Finally, plan more than one visit if possible. A second day lets you enjoy Cossies at different tides and light. It also gives you a backup if weather or ferry changes spoil the first attempt.