Why Honeymoon in the Rosario Islands and Barú
The appeal is simple: Caribbean water and simple island hotels a short boat ride from one of the most romantic cities in South America. You can pair three nights of restaurants and old town strolls with three nights of reading in a hammock without another flight.
The marine park protects coral gardens, seagrass and mangroves, so snorkeling straight off some hotel docks is decent. Fish life is better around the outer islands than near the busy beaches. Sunsets over open water are spectacular from Barú's west side.
The experience is rustic compared with resort islands in the Caribbean. That is part of the charm. Rooms often have open walls and ceiling fans instead of air conditioning. Most places include meals because there is nowhere else to eat. Couples who want a glossy resort should choose one of Barú's larger hotels instead of a small island lodge.
When to Go
The dry season from December to April brings the most sunshine. January through April is the best overall stretch. Between December and March the trade winds blow hard, which keeps things cool but can make the boat crossing from Cartagena rough. If either of you gets seasick, take medication before boarding and sit toward the back of the boat.
From May to September the sea is often calmer and the water clearer, though afternoon storms roll through. October and November are the wettest months, with heavier rain and occasional days when boats do not run.
Avoid Easter week and the stretch from Christmas to early January if you can. Colombian families fill every boat and beach, Playa Blanca becomes a wall of umbrellas and prices climb. Weekends are busier than weekdays all year.
Where to Stay
There are three different kinds of stay out here.
Barú has the largest and most comfortable hotels, reached by road from Cartagena. Sofitel Barú Calablanca is a full-service beach resort with pools and a spa. Las Islas sits in a quieter corner of the peninsula with wooden villas raised among the trees, many with private plunge pools.
Isla Grande and the smaller Rosario islets have simple eco lodges and a few private island houses that rent as small hotels. Expect fans, cold showers in some places and full board. The reward is having a reef at your doorstep.
Farther south, the San Bernardo islands such as Múcura and Tintipán are more remote, with a few small hotels on white sand. Transfers take longer, but the beaches are emptier.
Wherever you stay, confirm the boat transfer and what meals are included.
Romantic Things to Do
Snorkel early, before the tour boats arrive and stir up the sand. Ask your hotel to run you out to a reef in their boat for an hour.
On Isla Grande, local guides lead night trips by kayak or small boat to a lagoon where plankton glows when you move through the water. It works best on moonless nights.
Walk Playa Blanca at 7 am, when it is quiet and the light is soft. By late morning it fills with day-trippers and vendors, so plan to be back on your own beach by then.
Paddle a kayak through the mangroves of Isla Grande and watch for herons and kingfishers in the channels. Hire a boat for a half day to drift between islets, swim off the side and stop at a pier restaurant for grilled fish. End every day facing west with a cold drink.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Cartagena's Rafael Núñez Airport. Island hotels usually arrange the boat transfer from the tourist pier near Cartagena's walls, a crossing of roughly an hour that can stretch longer in rough seas. Shared launches are cheaper than private boats but stop at several places on the way.
Barú is reachable by road, about an hour from the city depending on traffic, so it is the easier choice if you dread boats. Your hotel can send a car.
Expect to pay a port tax and a national park fee on the way out. These are collected at the pier and are not always included in the transfer price, so carry cash.
Once you arrive, you go where your hotel's boat goes. There are no roads on the small islands. Pack light, since luggage is passed hand to hand onto small boats.
Food and Drink
Island food is fresh and straightforward. Expect whole fried fish, usually red snapper or mojarra, served with coconut rice, patacones and a squeeze of lime. Lobster and shrimp appear on most menus, often grilled with garlic butter. Ceviche made with the morning's catch makes a good lunch.
The better small hotels cook in a Caribbean home style and some of the Barú resorts have more polished restaurants. Menus are short everywhere, so mention allergies or dietary needs when you book.
Midday on Playa Blanca, vendors sell oysters, fruit and cocadas, the chewy coconut sweets of the coast. Agree on the price before anyone shucks or serves anything, because inflated bills are a well-known problem there.
Drinks are pricier than in the city because everything arrives by boat. Cold beer, rum and fresh juices are the usual choices.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring more cash than you think you need. Card machines and Wi-Fi are unreliable. There are no ATMs on the small islands.
Pack reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent for dusk and a dry bag for phones and passports on the boat. A headlamp helps on islands with limited lighting.
Book the last night of your trip back in Cartagena or near the airport rather than on an island. Morning boats can be delayed by weather. Nobody wants to miss a flight home over a choppy crossing.
If a small hotel's photos look too polished, read recent reviews about power and water. Generators sometimes shut off at night, which means no fan or air conditioning.
Say no to street vendors in Cartagena selling cheap island tours. Book through your hotel or the official pier office instead.
