Why Honeymoon in Nuquí
The whales come first. During the season you can see humpbacks from lodge decks, from the beach at breakfast and on boat trips where mothers and calves surface a few lengths away. In July and August males perform loud, splashy courtship displays.
The setting is the second draw. The Serranía del Baudó drops straight into the Pacific, so the forest grows right to the sand. Rivers spill onto beaches as small waterfalls and the lodges look out over nothing but surf.
Third, the pace. There are no cars, no shopping and often no phone signal. Days fall into a rhythm of morning boat trips, afternoon naps through the rain and dinners lit by candles. For a couple coming off wedding planning, the absence of choices is part of the appeal.
When to Go
Humpback whale season runs from roughly July through October, with August and September usually the strongest months. This is the reason most couples come and it is also when lodges fill first, so book several months ahead.
The catch is rain. Nuquí averages well over 200 inches a year and August is among the wettest months. Expect heavy showers most days, usually broken by bright spells. December through March brings the best odds of sunshine and calmer seas, plus surf near Termales in the first months of the year. Turtles nest on the beaches from about August through February.
Temperatures barely change: daytime highs sit in the upper 80s Fahrenheit with high humidity all year.
Where to Stay
Almost nobody stays in Nuquí town itself. Lodges sit in tiny villages along the coast and are reached only by boat.
- Guachalito: a long black-sand beach about 45 minutes south of town, with the largest cluster of ecolodges. El Cantil Ecolodge, on the bluffs here, is one of the longest-running and is well known for whale-season stays.
- Termales: a fishing village with hot springs and a surf break, home to small family-run cabins.
- Coquí: a village beside mangroves, closer to town and good for kayaking.
- Arusí and Punta Brava: further south and more remote, with rocky coves and very few visitors.
Most lodges sell full-board packages that include boat transfers and some excursions. Expect wooden cabins, private bathrooms, mosquito nets and limited electricity. Approximate full-board rates run from about US$150 to US$350 per person per night.
Romantic Things to Do
Go whale watching in the morning, when the sea is usually calmer. Lodges run small boats and good captains keep a respectful distance and cut the engine.
Ride or walk to Termales and soak in the two small thermal pools in the forest, then cool off in the river below. Late afternoon is the quietest time.
Take a boat north to Utría National Natural Park, a narrow bay lined with mangroves where humpback mothers rest with their calves. Rangers lead short boardwalk trails through the forest.
Other good days: kayak the Coquí mangroves at high tide, hike to a jungle waterfall behind Guachalito, take a surf lesson or simply walk the beach at low tide when the sand stretches for a mile. On clear nights, look for turtles coming ashore with a local guide.
Getting There and Around
Fly to Medellín (MDE) from the US, usually nonstop from Miami or Fort Lauderdale or via Bogotá. Flights to Nuquí leave from Medellín's other airport, Olaya Herrera (EOH), in the city center, so allow time to cross town. Satena and smaller regional airlines such as Clic fly the route on small planes in about an hour. Luggage limits are tight, so pack in a soft duffel and check your airline's allowance.
Weather can delay or cancel flights. Build a spare night in Medellín on the way out to protect your international connection.
From the Nuquí airstrip, your lodge sends a boat. Transfers run 25 to 75 minutes depending on the village and landings are often on the beach, so wear quick-drying clothes and expect wet feet. There is no road network; every outing is by boat or on foot.
Food and Drink
Food on the Chocó coast is simple and very fresh. Lodges serve what the boats bring in: snapper, tuna, shrimp and crab, often cooked as encocado in coconut milk with achiote. Coconut rice and fried plantain come with almost everything.
Look for juices made from borojó, a dense Pacific fruit locals swear by for energy, or from lulo, guava and passion fruit. Viche, a traditional sugarcane spirit from the Pacific coast, turns up in small bottles and cocktails; try it neat in a small glass.
There are no restaurants to speak of outside Nuquí town, so your lodge is your kitchen. Tell them about dietary needs before you arrive, since supplies come in by plane or boat. Drink bottled or filtered water, which lodges provide.
Honeymoon Tips
Pack for rain and bugs: a real rain jacket, quick-dry clothes, water shoes, a headlamp and strong repellent. A dry bag protects phones and cameras on boat rides.
Chocó is one of the areas where the CDC recommends malaria prevention. Dengue occurs too. See a travel clinic before you go and if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices.
Colombia carries a State Department Level 3 advisory overall, with stricter warnings for some departments. Read the latest advisory for Chocó before booking. In practice, couples who fly in and stay at established lodges deal mostly with weather, not crime.
Bring enough cash in pesos for tips and extras. ATMs are scarce and card machines are unreliable. Phone signal is patchy, so tell family you may be offline for days.
