Drama or Gentle Grandeur
Lake Como's scenery is the more dramatic. The mountains rise steeply from the water and the lake narrows in places so that villas on the far shore feel close enough to touch. The central lake around Bellagio, Tremezzo and Varenna, where the three arms meet, is where it looks most spectacular. Villa del Balbianello, on a wooded promontory near Lenno, is one of the most romantic gardens in Italy.
Lake Maggiore is wider and softer. The mountains are lower and set further back, giving more sky and more room on the promenades. Its showpiece is the Borromean Islands: Isola Bella with its baroque palace and terraced gardens roamed by white peacocks, Isola Madre's quieter botanical garden and Isola dei Pescatori, a lane or two of fishermen's houses with restaurants on the water.
Como makes you gasp. Maggiore makes you exhale. Both are beautiful from a boat at golden hour. Both get their share of afternoon thunderstorms in summer.
The Hotels Compared
Lake Como's hotel list is legendary. Villa d'Este in Cernobbio is a 16th-century cardinal's villa with a pool floating on the lake and about 25 acres of gardens. Passalacqua in Moltrasio is an intimate 24-room late-18th-century villa with terraced gardens and a house-party feel. The central lake adds grand Belle Époque hotels in Bellagio and Tremezzo and small boutique stays in Varenna. In high season, the grand hotels charge Amalfi Coast rates, while small hotels in Varenna and Menaggio cost much less.
Lake Maggiore's grand hotels are equally historic and more affordable. The Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées in Stresa is a Belle Époque landmark with gardens running down to the lake, from roughly $450 a night in shoulder season. Villa e Palazzo Aminta, just outside town, is another long-established luxury choice. Verbania, Cannobio and Ghiffa have family-run hotels with balconies over the water.
All prices are approximate. On Maggiore, pay the extra for a lake-view room with a balcony. On Como, decide whether the famous name is worth the premium.
Arrival and Getting Around
Both lakes are easy from the US. Milan Malpensa (MXP) has nonstop service from several US cities, including New York and Atlanta.
Maggiore is the shorter transfer. Stresa is about 45 minutes from Malpensa by car. Regional trains run up the western shore. Milano Centrale to Stresa is a little over an hour by train.
For Como, a private transfer to Cernobbio or Moltrasio takes roughly an hour. Bellagio or Tremezzo takes closer to an hour and a half. Frequent trains run from Milan to Como. The line toward Tirano follows the eastern shore to Varenna, where ferries cross to Bellagio and Menaggio.
On both, public ferries and faster hydrofoils run by Navigazione Laghi link the towns. Water taxis wait for private trips and late returns after dinner. You can manage either without a car. Lakeside roads are narrow and parking is tight in summer. A rental helps on Maggiore only if you want Lake Orta, the hill villages or the Swiss side on your own schedule.
On the Water and in the Gardens
Lake Como's essential outing is a private ride on a vintage wooden motorboat, ideally a classic Riva, gliding past villas, chapels and waterfalls in late-afternoon light. Book ahead in peak months. Then visit the gardens. Start with Villa del Balbianello. Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina is best in spring. Villa Melzi has lakeside paths in Bellagio. Explore Bellagio early or late to dodge the midday rush. Walk Varenna's lakeside path.
On Maggiore, buy a day ferry ticket and island hop: Isola Bella at opening time before the tour groups, lunch on Isola dei Pescatori, then the gardens of Isola Madre in the late afternoon. Visit Villa Taranto's gardens in Verbania in spring. Take a boat to Santa Caterina del Sasso, a small monastery built into a cliff on the Lombardy shore. Book a private boat at sunset to have the islands to yourselves.
Garden lovers should go in April or May on either lake, when azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons bloom. Check villa and island opening days before you plan.
Day Trips and Active Days
Lake Como suits couples who like to hike. Trails above Varenna and Tremezzo give wide views. The funicular from Como up to Brunate is an easy way to see the whole southern arm. Rent a small boat and find your own spot for a swim, which is comfortable from late June. Milan is close enough for a day of shopping or the Duomo.
Lake Maggiore has more variety beyond its shores. Ride the Centovalli railway from Locarno to Domodossola through a hundred valleys of chestnut woods and stone villages, then return by train. Lunch in a Swiss piazza in Locarno or Ascona. Drive a short way west to Lake Orta, where Orta San Giulio has cobbled lanes and a two-minute boat ride reaches Isola San Giulio and its basilica. It is one of the most intimate corners of the lakes.
Como keeps you on its own shores. Maggiore invites you to wander further, including across a border.
Eating on Each Lake
Both lakes share a love of perch. On Como, order risotto con pesce persico, creamy risotto topped with butter-fried perch fillets. Missoltini, sun-dried and grilled shad, comes with polenta. From the nearby Valtellina come bresaola and pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potato and cheese. Drink Valtellina Nebbiolo from steep terraces or Franciacorta sparkling wine. Many of the best dinners happen at hotel restaurants, so reserve special tables early.
On Maggiore, perch fillets are fried in butter and sage. Lavarello, a whitefish, is grilled or marinated. Risotto is everywhere, thanks to the rice fields of Piedmont and Lombardy. In autumn, look for porcini and chestnuts in the hills. Ghemme and Gattinara, Nebbiolo-based reds from south of the lake, are fairly priced on local lists. Stresa's margheritine shortbread biscuits make a good gift.
For a special dinner, Como offers a famous hotel terrace. Maggiore offers a table on Isola dei Pescatori and a water taxi home under the stars.
Seasons, Length of Stay and Pairing
The calendars match. May, June and September are best, with warm evenings for dining outdoors. April is superb for gardens. July and August are hot and busy, with crowded ferries and occasional thunderstorms. October is golden and quiet. From about November to March, many hotels close and the island attractions and some ferry routes shut down.
Three or four nights is right for either lake. Como's sights are concentrated in the central lake, so choose your base by priority: Cernobbio and Moltrasio for closeness to Milan, Bellagio, Tremezzo or Varenna for scenery. On Maggiore, Stresa is the classic base for the islands.
Combining them is easy, since they are about an hour apart by car. Two nights on Maggiore then three on Como makes a lovely lakes chapter. Either lake also pairs well with Venice, about two and a half hours from Milan by high-speed train, or with the Amalfi Coast. Pack a light layer for evenings on the water, even in July.
