Why Honeymoon in the Cloud Forest
It is quiet, green and very close. Most Ecuador honeymoons revolve around the Galápagos and a few nights in Quito. The cloud forest adds something different: misty mornings, rivers to swim in and wildlife you can watch from a hammock.
Birdwatchers know the region well. Mindo alone records more than 450 species, from toucans and tanagers to the Andean cock-of-the-rock, whose males gather at dawn to show off scarlet plumage. You do not need to be birders to enjoy it. Watching a dozen hummingbird species at a feeder over coffee wins over most skeptics.
The climate is mild, with days in the 70s Fahrenheit, so it pairs comfortably with the cool highlands and the hot islands. It is also good value: Mindo lodges cost a fraction of Galápagos hotels.
When to Go
The cloud forest is wet all year. The difference is how wet. From about June through September, the drier season brings more sun, clearer trails and easier river trips. From January through May, afternoon downpours are common and some trails get muddy, though mornings are often bright.
Bird activity is excellent year-round. Many species breed during the rainier months, so birders do not mind the showers. Mornings are always best for wildlife.
Temperatures are stable, with days around 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit and cooler nights. Mashpi, at a slightly lower elevation, feels a little warmer and more humid. Pack a light rain jacket and a warm layer whenever you go. Ecuadorian holidays such as Carnaval and Easter weekends fill Mindo with visitors from Quito.
Where to Stay
Mindo and Mashpi offer very different experiences.
- Mashpi Lodge: a modern, glass-walled lodge run by Metropolitan Touring inside a private reserve of rainforest. Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows on the canopy. Stays are all-inclusive with naturalist guides, meals and activities. Expect high prices, approximately well over US$1,000 a night for two.
- Mindo eco-lodges: small properties on the edge of town or along the river, many with gardens full of hummingbirds. El Monte Sustainable Lodge, set across a river from the road, is a long-running favorite with couples. Approximate rates run US$100 to US$400 a night, often with meals.
- Mindo town: simple guesthouses and cabins if you want to walk to cafés.
Many couples do two nights in each: Mindo for freedom, Mashpi for the splurge.
Romantic Things to Do
At Mashpi, ride the Dragonfly, an open-air gondola that glides over the forest canopy. Then try the Sky Bike, a pedal-powered cable seat for two that swings above the treetops. Guided night walks reveal glass frogs, stick insects and tarantulas.
In Mindo, take the tarabita, a small cable car that crosses the valley to a trail system with several waterfalls. Swim beneath one if you are brave enough for the cold water.
Spend an afternoon at a chocolate workshop, where local makers walk you from cacao pod to bar and let you taste every stage. Visit a butterfly garden and float down the Mindo River on inner tubes.
Rise early once to visit a cock-of-the-rock lek with a guide. Then return for a slow breakfast as the hummingbirds swarm the feeders.
Getting There and Around
Quito's Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO) has nonstops from Miami, Atlanta and Houston. It sits east of the city, so the drive to Mindo takes about 2.5 hours on paved roads. Mashpi is farther, about 3.5 to 4 hours from Quito, the last stretch on dirt road. Mashpi Lodge arranges transfers from Quito hotels.
For Mindo, most couples use a private driver or a tour company. Buses run from Quito's northern terminal several times a day and take around 2.5 hours, which is cheap but less comfortable with luggage.
In Mindo, taxis and pickup trucks shuttle visitors to trailheads and the tarabita. Lodges on the edge of town may arrange transport for you. Avoid driving mountain roads at night, when fog and landslides can make them hazardous.
Food and Drink
Mashpi Lodge serves set menus of modern Ecuadorian cooking using ingredients from its region, often with river fish, plantains and local fruits. Meals and soft drinks are included, though premium wines cost extra.
In Mindo, eating is casual. Look for trout raised in nearby ponds, served fried or grilled with patacones and rice. Small cafés make pizzas, crepes and good coffee from Ecuadorian beans. Chocolate is everywhere: try a hot cup made with local cacao and a pinch of chili.
Try tropical fruit you may never have heard of, such as naranjilla, tree tomato and guanábana, usually as fresh juice. On a cold evening, order canelazo, a warm cinnamon drink spiked with aguardiente. Tap water is not reliably safe; drink bottled or filtered.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring proper rain gear and waterproof shoes or boots with grip. Trails are slick and many lodges lend rubber boots.
The US State Department rates Ecuador at Level 2. The cloud forest northwest of Quito is not among the flagged areas, but read the latest advisory. Use registered drivers, especially when leaving Quito.
Mosquitoes are rare at Mindo's elevation but more common at lower spots. Use repellent and if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Ecuador.
Book Mashpi Lodge early, as rooms are limited. Mindo is flexible enough for last-minute plans.
Bring binoculars, even inexpensive ones. They turn tiny distant dots into birds you can identify, which makes the whole stay more rewarding.
