Buenos Aires, El Calafate and Torres del Paine in 12 Days

Tango in Buenos Aires, a wall of blue ice at El Calafate and granite towers from an all-inclusive lodge

12 days3 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Spend three nights in Buenos Aires for steak, Malbec and a milonga, fly to El Calafate for three nights at the Perito Moreno Glacier, then cross into Chile for five nights at a Torres del Paine lodge, where guides plan hikes, boat trips and puma tracking around your energy. It suits active couples who want big scenery and comfort. Go November to March, with November and March calmer.

Patagonia is the adventure honeymoon for couples who still want a good bed at the end of the day. This route crosses from Argentina into Chile, linking South America's most romantic city with two of its greatest landscapes: the Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate and the granite towers of Torres del Paine.

Buenos Aires comes first. It is only an hour or two ahead of the US East Coast, so jet lag is mild. Three nights of late dinners, tango and Belle Époque avenues make a fun start. Then you fly about three hours south to El Calafate for the glacier. From there, a road transfer of about five to six hours crosses the border to Torres del Paine, where you spend five nights at an all-inclusive lodge. That is your slow stretch, even if you hike most days.

Three hotels in 12 days keeps things calm. Bring your passport for the border crossing, plus layers, wind gear and good hiking shoes for both of you.

The route

  1. Buenos AiresArgentina · 3 nights
  2. El CalafateArgentina · 3 nights
  3. Torres del PaineChile · 5 nights
Best months
November to March, with November and March often calmer and less crowded
Trip length
12 days
Budget
About $300–1,100 a night for two, with all-inclusive Torres del Paine lodges at $1,750 or more (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: Buenos Aires

Fly overnight to Ministro Pistarini International (EZE), about 45 to 60 minutes from Recoleta or Palermo. The Alvear Palace Hotel, the city's grande dame, sits a few blocks from Recoleta Cemetery. Boutique hotels in Palermo put you near the best bars and restaurants. Nap on day one, then take a long walk under the jacarandas and eat dinner late, as the locals do, at a Palermo parrilla.

On day two, take a guided tour of the Teatro Colón, one of the world's great opera houses, then walk through Recoleta Cemetery and its marble mausoleums. In the evening, take a beginner tango class followed by a real neighborhood milonga, where couples dance until well after midnight. Watching is fine too.

On day three, if it is a Sunday, browse the antiques fair along Defensa in San Telmo. Otherwise, take the ferry across the river to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay for a day among cobbled streets. End with a Malbec tasting and an early night before your flight south.

Days 4–6: El Calafate

Fly from Buenos Aires's domestic airport, Aeroparque (AEP), to El Calafate (FTE), about three hours. The town sits beside the turquoise Lago Argentino. EOLO is the splurge, a small lodge with 17 rooms on the open steppe. Xelena Hotel & Suites is a comfortable lake-view option in town. Estancia Cristina, reached by boat through the icebergs, is a remote stay near the Upsala Glacier.

On day five, drive about one and a half hours to the Perito Moreno Glacier and arrive before the tour buses. The boardwalks bring you face to face with the ice. You will hear it crack and calve into the lake. Book a guided ice walk with crampons for the full experience, or a boat to the glacier's face.

On day six, cruise Lago Argentino to the Upsala Glacier and its icebergs, or visit an estancia for lamb roasted on a cross and a horseback ride. At dusk, walk to Laguna Nimez to see flamingos.

Days 7–11: Torres del Paine

Take a private transfer or a bus from El Calafate to Torres del Paine, about five to six hours with the border crossing at Cerro Castillo. Bring your passport. Many lodges can arrange the transfer for you.

This is the honeymoon heart of the trip. Explora Torres del Paine sits on Lake Pehoé, facing the Cuernos peaks. Awasi Patagonia has 16 villas on a private reserve, with your own guide and vehicle. EcoCamp Patagonia offers warm geodesic domes with wood stoves near the trail to the towers. Each lodge plans daily outings with guides based on your energy and the weather.

Spend day eight on the full-day hike to the base of the three granite towers, about eight to ten hours return. On day nine, take a boat to the face of Grey Glacier or kayak among the icebergs on Lake Grey. On day ten, join a specialist guide to track pumas, or ride with gauchos across an estancia. Keep day eleven free for whatever the weather allows, plus a long lunch at the lodge.

Day 12: Flying Home

From Torres del Paine, transfer about two hours to Puerto Natales (PNT), which has seasonal flights to Santiago, or about five hours to Punta Arenas (PUQ), which has flights year round. From Santiago, connect to nonstop flights to several US cities.

Leave plenty of time between flights, since Patagonian weather can delay departures. Book your domestic and international flights on one ticket where possible so the airline is responsible if you miss a connection.

If your flight leaves Santiago late, spend the afternoon in the city, or add a night or two in Santiago, Valparaíso or a Chilean wine valley to wind down before the long flight home.

Getting Between Stops

Fly from the US to Buenos Aires (EZE), then take a domestic flight from Aeroparque (AEP), the city airport, to El Calafate (FTE), about three hours. Allow about 45 minutes to an hour in traffic to get between the two Buenos Aires airports if you connect on arrival.

From El Calafate, take a private transfer or a scheduled bus to Puerto Natales or straight to your Torres del Paine lodge. The trip takes about five to six hours, with a border crossing in between. Keep your passport handy.

Fly home from Puerto Natales (PNT), when seasonal flights are running, or from Punta Arenas (PUQ), connecting through Santiago. Patagonian lodges arrange most transfers. Renting a car is possible but not necessary, since lodges include guided outings.

Where to Stay

In Buenos Aires, the Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta is the classic choice. Palermo has smaller boutique hotels closer to bars and restaurants.

In El Calafate, EOLO sits alone on the steppe with lake views. Xelena Hotel & Suites is a comfortable option in town. Estancia Cristina is a remote, boat-access estancia with the Upsala Glacier nearby.

In Torres del Paine, choose an all-inclusive lodge. Explora Torres del Paine has the most famous view, across Lake Pehoé to the Cuernos. Awasi Patagonia offers private villas, a dedicated guide and vehicle. EcoCamp Patagonia is a lower-cost choice with domes and wood stoves. Tierra Patagonia is another well-known all-inclusive lodge. All of them book up early, often a year ahead for peak months.

When to Go

November to March is the season in Patagonia, with long days and most lodges and boats running. December to February is the busiest and windiest time. Wind gusts can be very strong, especially in the afternoon.

November and March are often calmer and less crowded, with lower prices at some lodges. March brings autumn color to the lenga beech forests. October and April are possible, but some services close and the weather is colder and more unpredictable.

From May to September, much of Patagonia closes for winter, though some lodges open for winter stays with snow and puma tracking. Buenos Aires is best in October and November, when the jacarandas bloom. March to May is a close second. Summer in the city can be hot and humid.

What It Costs

As an approximate guide, the Alvear Palace Hotel in Buenos Aires starts around $660 a night for two, with boutique hotels in Palermo costing less. In El Calafate, Xelena starts around $240, EOLO around $1,100 and Estancia Cristina around $2,000.

Torres del Paine is the big expense. All-inclusive lodges such as Explora Torres del Paine and Awasi Patagonia cost about $1,750 to $2,800 or more a night for two, with meals, drinks, transfers and guided excursions included. EcoCamp Patagonia starts lower.

Add domestic flights, the transfer to Torres del Paine, a Perito Moreno ice walk and the national park pass if your lodge does not include it. Tipping guides and staff is customary. Buenos Aires is good value for dining, even at top restaurants.

Tips for the Two of You

Pack layers for both of you: a windproof and waterproof shell, a warm insulating jacket, a hat, gloves and broken-in hiking shoes. Patagonian weather can bring sun, rain, wind and even snow in the same afternoon. Sunglasses and sunscreen matter too, since the sun is strong in the far south.

On hikes, stay on marked trails and follow your guide's advice about wind. Gusts can knock you off balance on exposed ridges.

The trip has something for different interests. One of you might hike to the base of the towers while the other kayaks on Lake Grey or rides horses with gauchos. In Buenos Aires, one might take a tango class while the other visits museums, then meet for a late dinner. Use registered taxis or ride-hail apps in the city at night.

Make It Shorter or Longer

With nine or ten days, skip Buenos Aires or keep just one night there. Spend three nights in El Calafate and four or five in Torres del Paine.

With two weeks, add three nights in El Chaltén, about three hours north of El Calafate, for hikes to Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre under Mount Fitz Roy. Another option is two nights in Ushuaia at the end of the world for the Beagle Channel and Tierra del Fuego National Park.

With three weeks, finish in wine country. Fly from Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales to Santiago and spend three nights in the Colchagua Valley, or fly on to Mendoza for Malbec lunches in the Uco Valley before you fly home.

FAQ

Planning this trip

Is Patagonia good for a honeymoon?

Yes, for active couples who love scenery. Patagonia has glaciers, granite towers and huge lakes. Its best lodges are very comfortable, with guides, good food and spas. The weather is windy and changeable, so it suits couples who are happy outdoors in any conditions.

How do we get from El Calafate to Torres del Paine?

By road. Private transfers and scheduled buses take about five to six hours, including the border crossing between Argentina and Chile at Cerro Castillo. Many lodges arrange the transfer. Bring your passport for the crossing and allow time for lines at the border.

How many nights do we need in Torres del Paine?

At least four nights. Five is better. Weather often limits outings, so extra days give you more chances for the full hike to the towers, a boat to Grey Glacier and a puma-tracking trip. All-inclusive lodges plan each day based on conditions.

When is the best time for a Patagonia honeymoon?

November to March is the main season. December to February is busiest and windiest. November and March are often calmer, with fewer crowds and lower prices at some lodges. Much of Patagonia closes from May to September.

Which is better, El Calafate or Torres del Paine?

They complement each other. El Calafate is the base for the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the easiest glaciers in the world to see up close. Torres del Paine has granite towers, lakes and hiking. Most couples spend three nights in El Calafate and four or five in Torres del Paine.

Stops on this route

Honeymoon Huts is reader-supported. When you book through links on this page we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. Our picks are editorially independent. How we earn money.