At a glanceSeven nights on Sardinia, split between the turquoise coves of the Costa Smeralda and a rustic hotel in the Barbagia hills near the Gulf of Orosei, then three nights in Rome before a nonstop home. It suits beach lovers who want Caribbean-clear water, boat days and a city at the end. Go in June or September, when the sea is warm and the August crowds are gone.
Sardinia is the Italian island most Americans have yet to discover. Its water is the reason to go. White sand and pale granite edge a sea that shades from turquoise to sapphire within a few yards. Swimming here feels closer to the Caribbean than to the rest of the Mediterranean, which makes it the obvious choice for couples who want a beach honeymoon in Italy.
This route keeps the island simple. You fly into Olbia, spend four nights on the Costa Smeralda with a boat day in the La Maddalena archipelago, then drive into the granite hills of the Barbagia for three nights near the dramatic coves of the Gulf of Orosei. The island is roughly the size of Vermont, so choosing two areas instead of circling it is what keeps the pace relaxed.
Rome comes last, a one-hour flight from Olbia. After a week of swims and long seafood lunches, three nights of ruins, rooftop aperitivo and late dinners in Trastevere make a satisfying finale. You then fly home nonstop from Fiumicino.
The route
- SardiniaItaly · 7 nights
- RomeItaly · 3 nights
- Best months
- June and September, with late May and early October as shoulder options
- Trip length
- 11 days
- Budget
- About $400–1,000 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, with Costa Smeralda resorts well above that in summer (approximate)
Day by day
Days 1–4: Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena
Fly to Olbia Costa Smeralda (OLB). Delta has flown seasonal nonstops from New York JFK; otherwise connect through Rome, Milan or a European hub. Pick up a rental car and drive about 30 minutes to your hotel on the Costa Smeralda or in San Pantaleo. Swim, eat and sleep.
On day 2, charter a boat in the La Maddalena archipelago, a national park of granite islands just north of the coast. You will anchor in turquoise coves and swim off the deck. Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli, famous for its pink sand, can only be seen from the water. This boat day is the romantic moment of the north.
Days 3 and 4 are slow. Lie on a beach in the morning, nap through the afternoon heat and drive to San Pantaleo, a granite village inland, for an aperitivo in its piazza. One afternoon, visit a winery in Gallura's granite hills for a Vermentino tasting. The mistral wind can whip up the north coast at any time, so keep the boat day flexible.
Days 5–7: The Barbagia and the Gulf of Orosei
Drive south on day 5, roughly an hour and a half to two hours, to Su Gologone Experience Hotel near Oliena, in the Barbagia region below the Supramonte cliffs. The hotel is known for its craft workshops and fire-roasted food. It feels a world away from the yachts of Porto Cervo.
On day 6, head for the Gulf of Orosei, which has some of the most dramatic coves in Italy. Fit couples can hike down to Cala Goloritzè, with its tall limestone spire; the path is steep and access is capped in summer with advance booking. If one of you would rather float than hike, take a boat from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna and other coves along the cliffs. Bring water shoes, a hat and plenty of water.
Keep day 7 for the hotel and the hills. Walk in the Supramonte, take a cooking or crafts class or sit by the pool. Dinner here, roasted over open fire under the stars, is the romantic moment of this leg.
Days 8–10: Rome
Drive about an hour and a quarter to Olbia on day 8, return the car and fly to Rome, about an hour. Taxis from Fiumicino charge a fixed fare to the historic center. Drop your bags and walk to the Trevi Fountain once the evening crowds thin.
On day 9, take the first Vatican Museums slot and go straight to the Sistine Chapel. Cover shoulders and knees for both of you. Nap through the afternoon, then climb the Aventine at sunset to the Orange Garden and look through the Knights of Malta keyhole at St. Peter's dome. That is the romantic moment of Rome.
On day 10, see the Colosseum with timed tickets in your names, then drift through Monti for lunch. If one of you wants art and the other wants food, split for the afternoon: the Borghese Gallery for one, a pasta-making class for the other. Meet at the Gianicolo for sunset over the city, then make dinner in Trastevere the long one.
Day 11: Home from Rome
Fly home from Rome Fiumicino (FCO), which has nonstop flights to many US cities. The Leonardo Express train from Termini takes about half an hour; a taxi from the center takes around 45 minutes. Allow plenty of time at the airport in summer.
If your flight leaves in the afternoon, take a last morning coffee standing at a bar, Roman style, or a slow walk past the Pantheon. A morning flight is easier from a hotel near Termini, since the express train leaves from there. Pack any Sardinian wine or cheese from the first week in checked bags. Keep one last evening free of plans, since the best Roman nights tend to happen with no reservation at all, just a walk and a table that happens to be free.
Getting Between Stops
You need a rental car on Sardinia. The island is large, distances are longer than they look and public transport rarely reaches the best beaches. Olbia to the Costa Smeralda is about 30 minutes. The Costa Smeralda to Oliena is roughly an hour and a half to two hours. Oliena back to Olbia airport is about an hour and a quarter. Book the car early for summer and choose a small one for narrow village streets.
Flights from Olbia to Rome take about an hour, with several daily in summer. Book them when you book your long-haul tickets so the timing works.
In Rome, do not drive. Walk the historic center and use taxis or the metro for longer hops. Overnight ferries also link Sardinia with mainland ports such as Civitavecchia, near Rome, but flying is faster for a honeymoon.
Where to Stay
On the Costa Smeralda, Hotel Cala di Volpe sits on a sheltered bay and was designed to resemble a fishing village. Hotel Romazzino and Hotel Pitrizza are smaller sister properties nearby, the latter known for private villas and a seawater pool. Expect high prices and a lively social scene in July and August. San Pantaleo has quieter boutique guesthouses inland.
In the Barbagia, Su Gologone Experience Hotel near Oliena is our pick, with rustic rooms, craft workshops and some of the island's best traditional food. Cala Gonone on the coast has smaller hotels suited to couples who want to be near the boats.
In Rome, sleep inside the historic center so you can walk home after dinner. Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte hotel between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, is the splurge, with a terraced Secret Garden.
Advertisement
When to Go
June and September are the sweet spots. The sea is warm, the light is soft and beach clubs are open without the August crush. Rome is warm but manageable in both months. Late May is lovely for exploring Sardinia, though the water is still cool for some.
July and August are hot and busy, particularly on the Costa Smeralda, when yachts crowd Porto Cervo and prices peak. Boat trips and popular coves need reservations. Rome often runs well above 90°F and slows down in mid-August.
October can be warm and calm, but many seasonal Sardinian hotels begin closing by mid-month and ferry schedules thin. From November to March much of the coast shuts down, so plan this route for late spring to early autumn.
Budget and Booking
Plan on roughly $400–1,000 a night for two in good boutique to luxury hotels. The big Costa Smeralda resorts run well above that in July and August. Su Gologone and Rome's boutique hotels usually sit in the middle of the range. These figures are approximate.
Book the Costa Smeralda first, then your boat charter in La Maddalena and the Cala Goloritzè access slot if you plan to hike. Reserve Vatican Museums and Colosseum tickets as soon as you have dates.
Other costs: the rental car, fuel, the Olbia to Rome flight, beach club loungers in summer and a nightly tourist tax at each hotel. Seafood lunches on Sardinia can be expensive in Porto Cervo but very good value inland.
Make It Shorter or Longer
For a week, skip Rome and spend four nights on the Costa Smeralda and three in the Barbagia, connecting home through Rome or another hub. Or keep two nights in Rome and do five nights in Sardinia's north only.
With two weeks, add three nights in Alghero in the northwest. Walk its sea walls at sunset and visit Neptune's Grotto. Alghero has its own airport with flights to Rome, so you can fly out from there.
Couples who prefer an island-hop can add Corsica, a short ferry from Santa Teresa Gallura in the far north. Another option is to add the Amalfi Coast after Rome, about an hour and ten minutes by train to Naples, then a transfer to the coast.
Honeymoon Tips
The mistral wind can blow hard on the north coast for days at a time. Keep boat days flexible and ask your hotel which side of the island is sheltered. On windy days, the sea can turn rough with strong currents; swim at sheltered beaches and where others are swimming.
The Cala Goloritzè trail is steep and hot. Start early, carry plenty of water and wear proper shoes, not flip-flops.
In Rome, dress for churches with covered shoulders and knees for both of you. Visitors pay a small charge to reach the basin of the Trevi Fountain in the daytime and the Pantheon now sells tickets. Carry a refillable bottle, since Rome's public fountains run with drinkable water.
FAQPlanning this trip
Is Sardinia good for a honeymoon?
Yes, especially if you love beaches. Sardinia has some of the clearest water in the Mediterranean, granite coves, boat days among islands and a rugged interior with excellent food. The Costa Smeralda is glamorous and expensive, while the east and interior are quieter. You need a car and it is best from late May to early October.
How do we get from Sardinia to Rome?
Fly. Flights from Olbia (OLB) to Rome take about an hour, with several daily in summer. Overnight ferries from Olbia to Civitavecchia, the port near Rome, are an option if you have a car, but flying is much faster. Book the flight with your long-haul tickets to line up the connections.
Which part of Sardinia is best for couples?
The Costa Smeralda in the northeast is best for luxury hotels and boat days in La Maddalena. The Gulf of Orosei on the east coast has the most dramatic coves and hiking. Alghero in the northwest has a walled old town and sunsets. For a first trip, the north plus the east coast gives you the most variety without long drives.
Can we fly directly to Sardinia from the US?
Sometimes. Delta has flown seasonal nonstops from New York JFK to Olbia, so check whether the route is running for your dates. Otherwise fly through Rome, Milan or a European hub to Olbia, Cagliari or Alghero. Flying home from Rome on this route means you can use one of its many nonstops.
Why put Rome at the end rather than the start?
Rome has the most nonstop flights home, so ending there makes the trip back easy. It also gives you a slow start: after the long flight and a short connection, you go straight to the beach to recover from jet lag. The city then feels like a celebration rather than a tiring first stop.