Why Honeymoon in Corsica
The water is the main draw. Around Porto-Vecchio, beaches such as Palombaggia and Santa Giulia have pale sand and clear shallows that look almost Caribbean, with red rocks and umbrella pines instead of palms.
The island also offers drama on land. Bonifacio's old town sits on top of white cliffs eroded by the sea. On the west coast, the red granite Calanques de Piana and the Scandola nature reserve form one of the Mediterranean's most striking shorelines, protected as a UNESCO site.
Inland, the mountains rise above 8,000 feet. You can swim in the sea in the morning and in a mountain river pool in the afternoon.
Corsica is also refreshingly unpolished. Fewer Americans visit, villages still keep their own rhythm and dinner might be wild boar stew in a family restaurant where the menu is whatever the cook made that day.
When to Go
June and September are the best months. The sea is warm, hotels are all open and the roads are calm compared with high summer.
July is hot and busy but still pleasant. August is the peak of French and Italian holidays, when ferries are full, prices are highest and popular beaches crowd by mid-morning. If August is your only option, book well in advance and plan early starts.
Late May is green and lovely for hiking, though the sea is still cool. Early October can bring warm, settled days with the water holding its summer heat.
From November to April, much of the coast shuts down. Many hotels and beach restaurants close for the season, ferries run less often and mountain roads can see snow. It's beautiful for a road trip but not a beach honeymoon.
Where to Stay
- Porto-Vecchio and the south: the best beaches and the widest choice of stylish hotels. Casadelmar, a design hotel on the bay with a Michelin-starred restaurant, is a favorite for couples. Many guesthouses sit in the hills behind Palombaggia.
- Bonifacio: stay in or near the old town on the cliffs for evening walks along the ramparts.
- Sartène area: Domaine de Murtoli is a vast private estate of restored stone farmhouses, many with their own pools, close to a wild beach.
- Calvi and the Balagne: a citadel town with a long sandy beach and hill villages above it. Hotel La Signoria is a romantic old manor near town.
- Porto and Piana: simpler hotels with views of the red cliffs, good for two or three nights of exploring the west.
In high summer, a villa with a pool can be better value than a hotel.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a boat from Bonifacio's harbor along the cliffs and into the sea caves, then continue to the Lavezzi Islands to swim among granite boulders in clear water. Walk the town's ramparts at sunset.
Spend lazy days at Palombaggia, Santa Giulia or Rondinara, which forms a nearly closed shell-shaped bay.
On the west coast, join a boat trip from Porto into the Scandola reserve, past red cliffs, sea arches and the tiny village of Girolata, which has no road access. Drive the cliff road through the Calanques de Piana at golden hour.
Inland, hike the Restonica valley near Corte to mountain lakes, or cool off in the natural pools below the Bavella needles. For a gentler outing, tour Cap Corse and stop for wine tasting in Patrimonio, where vineyards run down to the sea.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstops from the US. Fly to Paris or Nice, then take a one to one and a half hour flight to Figari, Ajaccio, Bastia or Calvi. Air Corsica and Air France fly year-round; more routes open in summer.
Ferries are the other option, including overnight crossings from Marseille, Toulon and Nice. They're useful if you've already rented a car on the mainland, though check whether your rental contract allows the car on a ferry.
On the island you'll need a car. Roads are narrow and winding, often clinging to hillsides. Goats and cows sometimes stand in the middle of them. Plan on covering about 25 to 30 miles an hour on average. Porto-Vecchio to Bonifacio takes about 30 minutes, but crossing from the east coast to the west can take most of a day.
Book a car early in summer; rental fleets run short.
Food and Drink
Corsican food is mountain food meeting the sea. Look for charcuterie from free-roaming pigs, such as figatellu, a smoked liver sausage served grilled in winter. Then there's lonzu, a cured pork loin. Brocciu, a fresh sheep or goat cheese, shows up everywhere from omelets to the cheesecake called fiadone.
Chestnuts were once the island's staple. Chestnut flour still appears in cakes, pancakes and even beer. Wild boar stew is a classic in the hills. On the coast, order grilled fish of the day and langoustines.
Local wines are better than many visitors expect. Try whites from the vermentinu grape, light reds from sciaccarellu and the reds of Patrimonio. Restaurants in villages often serve fixed menus at reasonable prices. Many beach restaurants are open only for lunch, so plan dinner in town.
Honeymoon Tips
Don't try to see the whole island. Pick two bases at most and give each at least three nights.
Arrive at popular beaches early in July and August. By 11 a.m. parking lots are full.
Boat trips depend on the wind. Book them early in your stay so you have a backup day if the sea is rough. The same wind can kick up surf on exposed beaches, many of which have no lifeguard outside high summer, so pick a sheltered bay on blustery days.
Carry cash for village restaurants and small shops. Some still don't take cards.
Learn a few words. Corsicans appreciate visitors who recognize that the island has its own identity; a simple bonghjornu for hello is a nice touch.
Pack hiking shoes even if you're not planning long hikes. Many of the best coves need a short scramble over rocks to reach.
