Why Honeymoon in Fes
History you can walk through. Fes el-Bali is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the largest car-free urban areas anywhere. Among its landmarks is the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 by a woman named Fatima al-Fihri and often cited as the oldest continuously operating university in the world.
The craftsmanship is extraordinary. The madrasas of Bou Inania and al-Attarine are covered in carved plaster, cedar and zellige tile. Both are open to visitors. Workshops across the medina still produce leather, brass, embroidery and pottery.
The riads here are some of the most beautiful in Morocco. Many were grand merchant homes, restored room by room with soaring painted ceilings and tiled courtyards. Staying in one feels like being guests in a museum that happens to serve breakfast on the roof.
Fes is also less crowded with tourists than Marrakech, which makes it feel more personal.
When to Go
Spring from March to May is the most comfortable time, with warm days and cool evenings. October and November are nearly as good, with mild weather and harvest season in the surrounding countryside.
Summer is hot. In July and August, temperatures often reach the high 90s or above. The medina traps the heat. If you visit then, explore early and late and rest in your riad through the afternoon.
Winter is cooler and sometimes rainy, with chilly nights. Traditional riads can feel cold and damp, so look for rooms with heating and ask about it before booking. Daytime sightseeing is still pleasant in winter, when you will see fewer visitors.
Ramadan changes the rhythm of the city. Many restaurants close by day, but the evenings come alive after the fast breaks.
Where to Stay
Stay inside Fes el-Bali if you want the full experience. Riads near Bab Bou Jeloud, the famous Blue Gate, are easy to reach and close to the main shopping lanes of Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira. Those near the Batha area also have quick access to taxis and a gentler feel.
Look for a riad that offers a pickup from the nearest gate, since cars cannot get into most of the medina. A rooftop terrace with a view over the old city is worth paying a little more for.
If you prefer a hotel with a pool and more space, there are larger properties on the edges of the medina and in the hills just outside, some with views across the rooftops. They are calmer but involve a short taxi ride to the lanes.
The ville nouvelle, or new town, has modern hotels, but it lacks the atmosphere that makes Fes special.
Romantic Things to Do
Hire a licensed guide for your first morning. They will steer you through the maze, open doors to workshops and explain what you are looking at in the madrasas and fondouks. Afterward, explore on your own.
Visit the Chouara tannery from one of the leather shop terraces above it. The view of the dye pits is striking. Shops hand out mint sprigs for the smell and expect you to browse, though you do not have to buy.
Walk or take a taxi up to the Merinid Tombs at sunset. The ruins sit on a hill above the medina. From there the whole city spreads out below as the call to prayer begins. The hillside is lonely after dark, so have the taxi wait or arrange a ride back rather than walking down at dusk.
Book a hammam for two at your riad or a local spa. It is the best way to end a long day in the lanes.
Take a day trip to Volubilis, the Roman ruins with fine mosaics, combined with the imperial city of Meknes.
Getting There and Around
Fes-Saiss Airport (FEZ) is about 25 to 30 minutes from the medina, with flights from European cities and domestic connections from Casablanca. There are no nonstop flights from the US to Fes.
Many couples fly Royal Air Maroc nonstop from New York, Washington, Miami or Los Angeles into Casablanca, then take the train to Fes, which takes about four hours. Trains also link Fes with Rabat, Meknes, Tangier and Marrakech, though the last is a long ride of around seven hours.
From Merzouga, the drive north through the Middle Atlas takes about eight hours. Chefchaouen is around three and a half to four hours by road.
In the medina, you walk. Keep a downloaded offline map and remember that the main lanes slope downhill toward the river. Petit taxis connect the medina gates with the new town and train station. Agree the fare or insist on the meter.
Food and Drink
Fes is often called the culinary capital of Morocco. Its signature dish is pastilla: flaky pastry filled with pigeon or chicken, almonds, spices and eggs, finished with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Try it at a riad dinner or a good restaurant.
For breakfast, look for bissara, a hearty fava bean soup drizzled with olive oil and cumin, served from tiny stalls in the morning.
Khlii, a preserved spiced beef, is another local specialty, often cooked with eggs.
Many riads serve long dinners of salads, tagine and dessert in their courtyards. Some are licensed for wine. Wines from nearby Meknes are a good local choice. Small cafes in the medina rarely serve alcohol.
Walk through the food stalls near the Blue Gate in the evening for grilled meat, fried fish and sweets drenched in honey.
Honeymoon Tips
Expect to get lost at least once. It is part of the experience. If you need directions, ask a shopkeeper rather than accepting offers from young men in the lanes, who may expect payment or steer you to their friends' shops.
Be clear with guides about what you want to see. Some will take you to shops where they earn a commission. Saying upfront that you prefer workshops to sales pitches helps.
Non-Muslims cannot enter most mosques, including al-Qarawiyyin, but you can peek into its courtyard through the open doors.
Wear comfortable shoes with good grip. The lanes are steep in places and can be slick.
Friday is a quieter day in the medina, with some shops closed around midday prayers. It is a good time to visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, or the royal palace gates in Fes el-Jdid.
