Why Honeymoon in Essaouira
The pace is the draw. After the souks of Marrakech, Essaouira's medina feels calm and easy. The lanes are wide and laid out on a grid planned in the 1760s for Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, so you rarely get lost. Sellers are friendly but rarely pushy.
The sea air is refreshing. Days are mild year-round and almost never oppressive, which makes Essaouira the best place in Morocco for a summer honeymoon.
It has character, too. The town was a meeting point for Amazigh, Arab, Jewish and European merchants for centuries. Later it drew musicians and artists. Today you will find galleries, live music, small bars and a lively cafe culture.
The riads here are bright and airy rather than dark and ornate, often with whitewashed walls, blue shutters and rooftop terraces where you can hear the waves at night.
When to Go
Essaouira is a year-round destination thanks to its mild climate. April to June and September to October are the most pleasant months, with warm days, sunshine and slightly calmer winds.
July and August are popular because the town stays cool while inland Morocco is scorching. Expect temperatures in the 70s and strong winds, sometimes enough to make beach days unpleasant. This is prime season for kitesurfing.
Winter brings mild days in the 60s, cooler nights and some rain. It is quiet and peaceful, though many riads feel chilly without heating.
The Gnaoua World Music Festival, usually held in June, fills the town with musicians and crowds for several days. It is a lively time to visit, but book accommodation well ahead or avoid those dates if you prefer quiet.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the medina for atmosphere. Riads near the Skala de la Ville and the northern ramparts hear the sea at night and often have terraces facing the ocean. Those closer to the main square, Place Moulay Hassan, are steps from the harbor and cafes.
Riads in Essaouira tend to be smaller and simpler than those in Marrakech, but many are beautifully designed with white walls, blue accents and fresh flowers. Some have small spas and hammams. Few have pools.
If you want a pool and a beachfront location, there are hotels along the bay south of the medina. They are a 10 to 20 minute walk along the promenade to the old town.
For real quiet, look at guesthouses in Diabat or near Sidi Kaouki beach, south of town. They offer sea views, gardens and space, but you will need a car or taxi to reach the medina.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Skala de la Ville at sunset, along the sea-facing ramparts lined with old bronze cannons. The light over the rocks and the crashing waves is the best show in town.
Visit the fishing harbor in the late morning as the boats come in. Choose your fish, prawns or sardines from the stalls and have them grilled on the spot for lunch at a simple table.
Ride horses or camels along the beach toward Diabat and the ruins of an old fort half-swallowed by sand, or farther south to Sidi Kaouki.
Take a lesson in kitesurfing or windsurfing if you are adventurous. The bay is one of Morocco's best spots.
Browse the thuya wood workshops built into the ramparts, where artisans carve fragrant boxes and inlaid pieces from the root of a local tree.
Stop at an argan oil cooperative run by women on the road from Marrakech.
Getting There and Around
Essaouira is about 2.5 to 3 hours by road from Marrakech, along a route through argan forests where you might spot goats climbing the trees. Supratours buses run daily, but a private driver offers more comfort and the chance to stop along the way.
Essaouira Mogador Airport (ESU) is about 25 minutes from town but has limited flights, mostly to Europe. Most couples fly into Marrakech, which has more connections through European hubs, or arrive on Royal Air Maroc's nonstop flights from the US into Casablanca. Casablanca to Essaouira is about five to six hours by road.
Inside the medina, you walk. Cars are not allowed in most of the old town, so your riad may send a porter with a cart to meet you at the gate.
Petit taxis are cheap for trips to the beach hotels or Diabat. Agree the fare first.
Food and Drink
Seafood is the star. At the harbor grills, pick your catch from ice-filled displays and have it cooked on charcoal with salad and bread. Sardines, sea bream, calamari and prawns are common. Ask the price per kilo before ordering.
In the medina, restaurants serve fish tagines with tomatoes, peppers and olives, along with Moroccan classics. Several restaurants offer a more modern take on Moroccan food with wine lists.
Essaouira has a relaxed approach to drinking compared with much of Morocco. Several bars and restaurants serve wine and beer, including rooftop spots for sunset drinks.
Try amlou, a spread of almonds, argan oil and honey, with bread at breakfast. Argan oil here is fresh and abundant, so buy some from a cooperative to take home.
Fresh orange juice and mint tea are sold everywhere for a few dirhams.
Honeymoon Tips
Pack a windbreaker and a sweater, even in summer. The wind can make evenings cooler than you expect.
Do not plan on long swimming days. The Atlantic is chilly and the wind is strong. Sidi Kaouki and the bay are better for walking, surfing and horse riding than for lounging.
Two or three nights is ideal. That gives you time for the ramparts, the harbor, a beach ride and a slow day of doing very little.
Combine Essaouira with Marrakech for a short honeymoon of contrasts, or use it as a restful end to a longer loop through the desert and mountains.
Book early for June if you want to attend the Gnaoua festival. Skip those dates if you want quiet lanes.
Tell your riad you are celebrating. Many will arrange a rooftop dinner or flowers.
