Why the Northern Marianas for a Honeymoon
The draw is easy, uncrowded water. Saipan's west coast is fringed by a barrier reef that holds a long, shallow lagoon, so most beaches have flat, clear water and gentle entries. The Grotto, a collapsed limestone cavern on the northeast coast, is one of the better-known cavern dives in Micronesia, with shafts of blue light coming up through underwater tunnels.
The islands also hold real weight. The Battle of Saipan in June and July 1944 killed tens of thousands. Banzai Cliff and Suicide Cliff in the north mark where Japanese civilians died rather than surrender. On Tinian, the B-29 loading pits for the Hiroshima and Nagasaki missions are preserved in the grass. These are sober places to visit together.
And it is American. No passport is needed, the dollar is the currency and emergency care is a short flight away in Guam. That combination of remoteness and simplicity is unusual.
Best Time to Visit
Saipan has one of the most even climates on earth, with daytime highs close to 84°F nearly every day of the year. What changes is rain. The dry season runs roughly December to June, with steady trade winds, lower humidity and the calmest lagoon. January through April is the safest bet.
From July to November the rainy season sets in. Typhoon risk runs from about July into December. Typhoon Yutu in October 2018 was the strongest storm on record to hit the islands. If you travel in these months, build in a spare day at each end and carry insurance.
Visitor numbers peak around Korean and Chinese holidays and Japanese Golden Week, though even then the beaches are far emptier than in Guam. Water stays in the low 80s year-round, so snorkeling and diving work in any month when the sea is calm.
Where to Go
Saipan is where you will spend most of your time. Our Saipan guide covers the lagoon, Managaha Island, the Grotto, the northern cliffs and where to base yourselves along the west coast.
Tinian is a day trip or an overnight. Fly or take a boat across the three-mile Saipan Channel, then rent a car. Taga Beach has a cut rock ledge for jumping into deep blue water and the best sunsets in the islands. Nearby, the House of Taga site has the tallest latte stones still standing in the Marianas. North Field, once one of the busiest airfields in the world, is now a grid of overgrown runways around the bomb loading pits.
Rota sits between Saipan and Guam and suits two or three slow days. Swim in the natural limestone pool at the Swimming Hole near Songsong, walk the ancient Taga stone quarry and drive up to the bird sanctuary cliffs at dusk.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Fly Honolulu to Guam and continue to Saipan, or stay one night in Guam to break the journey.
Days 2 and 3: Settle on Saipan's west coast. Take the boat to Managaha Island for a morning of snorkeling, then watch sunset from Micro Beach.
Day 4: Drive north to Banzai Cliff, Suicide Cliff and the Last Command Post, then stop at Bird Island lookout. Finish at American Memorial Park in Garapan.
Day 5: Dive or snorkel the Grotto with a guide, then drive up Mount Tapochau for the view over the lagoon.
Days 6 and 7: Fly to Tinian. Spend an afternoon at Taga Beach, explore North Field by car and stay for a night of total quiet.
Days 8 and 9: Fly to Rota for the Swimming Hole, the quarry and empty roads.
Day 10: Fly Rota to Guam to connect home.
Budget and Costs
All prices here are approximate and change with the season.
- Flights: the Honolulu to Guam leg dominates. The Guam to Saipan hop adds a modest amount. Star Marianas Air flights to Tinian and Rota are short and usually inexpensive.
- Hotels: Saipan has a handful of large beach resorts, often around $150 to $300 a night, plus simpler hotels in Garapan that can be much cheaper outside Asian holiday weeks. Tinian and Rota have only a few small hotels.
- Car rental: roughly $50 to $80 a day on Saipan, similar on Tinian and Rota.
- Food: local plate lunches and barbecue are cheap. Resort restaurants charge mainland resort prices.
- Activities: the Managaha boat usually includes the island fee and often lunch. Guided Grotto dives and island tours are the main extra costs.
Tipping follows US norms.
Getting There and Around
No US carrier flies nonstop to Saipan. The standard route is Honolulu to Guam on United, then a 45-minute connection north. Saipan also has direct flights from Seoul and Busan, useful if you have passports and want to combine the trip with Korea.
Saipan International Airport is in the south, about 20 minutes from Garapan. There is no public bus on Saipan. Hotels run shuttles to the main shopping areas, but taxis are expensive and do not cruise for fares. Rent a car at the airport; driving is on the right and the island is small enough to cross in half an hour.
Star Marianas Air flies small propeller planes from Saipan to Tinian in about ten minutes and also serves Rota. A ferry has run across the Saipan Channel at times, but check the current schedule. On Tinian and Rota, rent a car from the airport or your hotel.
Culture and Etiquette
Two indigenous peoples share these islands. Chamorros have lived in the Marianas for millennia, while Carolinians arrived from the islands to the south in the 1800s. Both languages are official alongside English. A friendly Håfa adai or the Carolinian Tirow will be returned with a smile.
Most islanders are Catholic. Village fiestas honoring patron saints are open, generous affairs. Many residents consider their customs better preserved than Guam's. They are also proud the Commonwealth negotiated its own relationship with the United States. Use the word Commonwealth.
The war sites deserve care. Banzai Cliff and Suicide Cliff are lined with Japanese and Korean memorials where many visitors come to pray. Keep voices low and skip the posed selfies. Latte stones and caves with ancient drawings, like Kalabera Cave, are protected; do not touch the paintings. Dress casually, but cover up away from the beach, especially at church.
Quick tips
- Rent a car on Saipan: there is no public bus and taxis are pricey outside hotel zones.
- Book Tinian and Rota flights on Star Marianas Air early, since its small planes fill on holidays.
- Call it the Commonwealth, not a territory; locals notice and appreciate the distinction.
