Why Taiwan for a Honeymoon
The first reason is food. Taiwan's cooking draws on Fujianese, Hakka, Japanese and Indigenous traditions, plus the regional Chinese cuisines that arrived after 1949. Beef noodle soup, gua bao, oyster omelets, shaved ice heaped with mango and bubble tea all come from or were perfected here. You can eat well on a few dollars or splurge at Michelin-starred rooms in Taipei.
The second is variety in a small space. In one week you can ride the subway to a volcanic national park, soak in sulfur springs, take the bullet train south and sleep beside a lake in the mountains. Distances are short and transport is excellent.
The third is the mood. Taiwan feels relaxed and polite. Temples smoke with incense next to design shops, tea houses hang over ravines and locals are proud to show you their favorite noodle stall. Few Americans honeymoon here, which keeps it feeling like a discovery.
Best Time to Visit
October through early December is the sweet spot. The heat breaks, skies clear and typhoon season is winding down. March through May is also lovely, with cherry blossoms in the mountains in early spring and fireflies at Alishan later in the season.
Late May and June bring the plum rains, a stretch of gray, wet weeks. July through September is hot and sticky, often in the 90s Fahrenheit in Taipei. It is also the peak of typhoon season. Storms usually pass in a day or two but can cancel flights, close mountain roads and stop boats.
Winter in Taipei is mild but often drizzly, with highs in the 60s. That is the season for hot springs. Meanwhile the south around Kaohsiung and Kenting stays sunny. Avoid Lunar New Year week if you can, since trains and hotels fill and many small restaurants close.
Where to Go
Taipei is the natural base and the subject of our Taipei guide. Spend at least three nights for the night markets, Taipei 101, the National Palace Museum and the hot spring district of Beitou. Day trips run to the hillside town of Jiufen and the old railway line through Pingxi.
Sun Moon Lake, in the central mountains, is the classic couples' escape. Our Sun Moon Lake guide covers the lakeside cycling path, ferries between temples, black tea farms and the best lake-view hotels.
Alishan is the mountain counterpoint. Our Alishan guide explains the restored forest railway, the predawn sunrise trip, giant cypress trails and the tea villages on the way up.
Tainan, the old capital, rewards food lovers with temples and snack stalls. The east coast around Hualien has dramatic scenery, but parts of Taroko Gorge were closed after the 2024 earthquake, so check what is open before you plan around it.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
- Days 1 to 4: Taipei. Recover from the flight with a soup dumpling lunch and a sunset climb up Elephant Mountain. Spend a day on museums and markets, then a slow afternoon in Beitou hot springs. Take a day trip to Jiufen and the Pingxi line to release a sky lantern at Shifen.
- Day 5: High Speed Rail to Taichung, then a bus into the hills to Sun Moon Lake.
- Days 6 and 7: Sun Moon Lake. Ride the lakeside path, take the ropeway and visit a black tea farm.
- Day 8: Transfer to Alishan by car or via Chiayi and the forest railway.
- Day 9: Sunrise over the clouds, then the giant tree trails and a tea village lunch.
- Day 10: Descend to Chiayi and ride the bullet train to Taoyuan for your flight, or add two nights in Tainan to eat your way through the old capital.
Budget and Costs
All figures are approximate and move with exchange rates, which have hovered around 30 New Taiwan dollars to the US dollar in recent years.
Taiwan costs noticeably less than Japan or Hong Kong for similar comfort. Good four-star hotels in Taipei often run about $130 to $250 a night, with luxury hotels starting near $300. Lakeside resorts at Sun Moon Lake command a premium on weekends. Mountain lodges at Alishan are simpler and moderately priced.
Food can be astonishingly cheap. A night market feast for two may cost $15 to $30, while a mid-range dinner with drinks is often $50 to $90. Fine dining in Taipei is priced closer to US levels.
Transport is a bargain. MRT rides cost about a dollar and the High Speed Rail from Taipei to Taichung is roughly $25 to $30 per person in standard class. Budget extra for a private driver in the mountains, which saves hours on winding roads.
Getting There and Around
Most flights land at Taoyuan International (TPE), about 45 minutes from central Taipei by airport MRT. Taiwanese carriers EVA Air, China Airlines and Starlux fly nonstop from a long list of US cities, including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle and New York. United and Delta add a few more. Newer routes have reached Dallas, Phoenix and Washington Dulles, so check your nearest gateway.
Inside the country, the High Speed Rail runs down the west coast from Taipei to Kaohsiung in about 90 minutes to two hours, with stops at Taichung and Chiayi for the mountains. Regular trains cover the east coast. City metros in Taipei and Kaohsiung are clean and cheap.
For Sun Moon Lake and Alishan, buses connect from the bullet train stations, but a hired car with a driver makes the mountain legs far easier. Driving yourself is possible with an International Driving Permit, though scooter-heavy city traffic takes nerve.
Culture and Etiquette
Taiwanese manners are gentle and orderly. People queue for everything, from the subway to a famous pork bun stall. Stand on the right on escalators. Eating and drinking on the MRT is banned and fined.
Tipping is not expected. Hotels and better restaurants add a 10 percent service charge. Taxi drivers simply round up. Hand money or cards over with both hands as a small courtesy.
Temples are active and welcoming. Step over the threshold rather than on it, keep voices low and do not point at statues. You can try divination with the red moon blocks if you ask quietly. Public displays of affection are fine in moderation; holding hands draws no attention.
Tap water is not usually drunk straight, but filtered water dispensers are everywhere and hotels provide bottles.
Quick tips
- Buy an EasyCard at the airport; it pays for the MRT, buses, trains and convenience stores.
- Book High Speed Rail seats a few days ahead for weekends and holidays.
- Leave flex days in summer and early fall, when typhoons can halt ferries and mountain roads.
