Why Honeymoon in the Azores
The Azores suit couples who would rather hike to a crater rim than lie by a pool all day. The landscapes are dramatic but the scale is human. São Miguel is about 40 miles long, so every major sight is within an hour's drive.
The islands are also relaxed and uncrowded compared with mainland hotspots. Development has been careful, much of the land is farmland or protected forest and local life still revolves around dairy farming and fishing.
Some experiences here are hard to find anywhere else: soaking in iron-rich thermal pools in a botanical garden, seeing sperm whales a short boat ride from the harbor and eating a stew cooked for hours in volcanic earth. Prices are also generally lower than in Lisbon or the Algarve.
When to Go
June through September is the best time. Days are warmest, mostly in the 70s, the hydrangeas bloom from late June through August and the sea is pleasant for swimming. Whale watching runs year-round, with resident sperm whales, while spring is the season for migrating baleen whales such as blue and fin whales.
May and October are good shoulder months with fewer visitors, though rain is more likely. From November to March the islands are wet, windy and grey for long stretches, some hiking trails get muddy and boat trips often cancel.
In any season, the weather changes by the hour. Clouds can cover Sete Cidades at breakfast and clear by noon. Check the live webcams of the lakes before driving up. Keep a flexible plan.
Where to Stay
Split your nights between two areas if you can. Ponta Delgada, the island capital, has the most restaurants and easy access to whale-watching boats. White Exclusive Suites and Villas in nearby Lagoa is a minimalist adults-oriented hotel built into the shoreline with an ocean-view pool.
Furnas, in a volcanic valley on the east side of the island, is the place for thermal soaking. Furnas Boutique Hotel has its own thermal pools and spa. Staying there lets you visit the public hot springs early or late. On the north coast, Santa Bárbara Eco-Beach Resort sits above a black sand surf beach near Ribeira Grande, with villa-style rooms.
On Pico and Faial, choose small wine estates and guesthouses with ocean views.
Romantic Things to Do
Soak in the warm, orange-brown pool at Terra Nostra Park in Furnas, surrounded by giant ferns and old trees, then try the smaller Poça da Dona Beija pools in the evening. At Ponta da Ferraria on the west coast, a hot spring flows into a rocky ocean inlet where you can float between warm and cool water at low tide. Hold on to the fixed ropes and skip it when the swell is up.
Drive to the Vista do Rei viewpoint above Sete Cidades for the blue and green twin lakes, then walk part of the crater rim. Lagoa do Fogo, higher in the mountains, is wilder and often in the clouds.
Book a whale-watching trip from Ponta Delgada with an operator that uses lookouts on the cliffs. On the north coast, visit the Gorreana tea plantation, a family business since 1883.
Getting There and Around
Azores Airlines flies nonstop from Boston to Ponta Delgada year-round, with additional service from New York JFK. United has offered seasonal flights from Newark. Flights take under five hours eastbound. The Azores also work well as a stopover before or after Lisbon, about a two-hour flight away.
Rent a car on São Miguel. Roads are good, though narrow in villages. Distances are short. Book early in summer, when rental cars can sell out.
To visit other islands, take short domestic flights on SATA, or the seasonal ferries in the central group. Pico and Faial are just a 30-minute ferry ride apart, which makes them an easy pair. Allow buffer days, as wind and fog sometimes delay inter-island flights.
Food and Drink
The signature dish is cozido das Furnas, a stew of meats, sausage and vegetables cooked for hours in pots buried in the hot ground beside Lagoa das Furnas. You can watch the pots being pulled out late in the morning, then eat it in a village restaurant.
Seafood is excellent: grilled limpets, tuna steaks, octopus and fresh catch from the harbor. Island cheese from São Jorge is sharp and tangy. Azorean beef and dairy are celebrated across Portugal.
Try the sweet, small Azorean pineapples grown in glass greenhouses near Ponta Delgada. On Pico, taste volcanic wines grown in black lava rock corrals by the sea, a vineyard landscape listed by UNESCO. Finish with locally grown green or black tea.
Honeymoon Tips
Pack swimsuits you do not mind ruining. The iron-rich water in Furnas pools stains light fabric orange. Bring dark swimwear, flip-flops and a towel.
Plan your days around the weather. Keep scenic drives and crater lake hikes flexible, saving museum visits, tea plantations and hot springs for cloudy days. Hot springs are especially lovely in the rain.
Book whale-watching for early in your trip so you have time to reschedule if seas are rough. Take a light rain jacket every day, even in August. Finally, if you plan to add Pico, consider climbing Mount Pico, Portugal's highest peak, with a licensed guide, which is a demanding but rewarding day.
