Why Honeymoon at iSimangaliso
Variety is the main draw. Within one park you get freshwater lakes, coastal forest, swamps, savanna and the Indian Ocean. The lakes hold around 800 hippos and 1,200 crocodiles. The land sections are home to elephants, leopards, black and white rhinos and buffalo, with lions reintroduced more recently.
The coast is the other half. Beaches are wide, often empty and backed by some of the highest vegetated dunes in the world. Offshore, the reefs at Sodwana Bay are the southernmost coral reefs in Africa.
Adding a private safari next door gives you the Big Five in a luxury setting. Phinda Private Game Reserve borders the park and is run by andBeyond, with several lodges. The pairing of beach and bush in one region is hard to match in South Africa.
When to Go
Winter, from April to September, is the dry season. Days are warm and sunny, often in the mid-70s Fahrenheit, with cool nights and lower malaria risk. Thinner vegetation makes for good game viewing at Phinda and in the reserve sections. Humpback whales pass offshore from about June to November.
Summer, from October to March, is hot and humid with afternoon storms. This is turtle season. Loggerheads and leatherbacks come ashore to nest from roughly November to January, with hatchlings heading to the sea from January into March. Guided night tours run from St Lucia and the northern beaches.
South African school holidays and Christmas bring crowds to St Lucia. Book early for December or for turtle tours, which are limited in number.
Where to Stay
Most couples split their stay between the coast and a safari lodge.
- St Lucia town: guesthouses and small lodges a short walk from the estuary, with hippos sometimes wandering the streets at night. Convenient for boat cruises and Cape Vidal.
- Phinda Private Game Reserve: several andBeyond lodges, including Phinda Forest Lodge, with glass-walled suites in sand forest. Phinda Mountain Lodge has views over the reserve. Game drives, meals and activities are included.
- Northern coast: remote lodges near Sodwana Bay, Lake Sibaya and Kosi Bay suit divers and couples who want very quiet beaches.
Approximate rates run from about US$100 a night for a good St Lucia guesthouse to more than US$800 per person per night at Phinda's top lodges, all-inclusive.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a sunset boat cruise on the St Lucia estuary to watch hippos, crocodiles and fish eagles. Book an operator with a small boat if possible.
Drive to Cape Vidal for a swim in a sheltered rock pool or lagoon, with picnic spots under the trees. Keep an eye out for monkeys eyeing your lunch.
Join a guided night turtle tour in summer to watch loggerheads or leatherbacks dig their nests on the beach.
Snorkel or dive the reefs at Sodwana Bay, where clear water reveals corals, turtles and reef fish. Introductory dives are offered for beginners.
At Phinda, join morning and evening game drives, take a walking safari or book a private bush dinner. Some lodges offer ocean excursions to the nearby coast.
Getting There and Around
From the US, fly to Johannesburg (JNB) on a nonstop from Atlanta or the New York area, then connect to Durban's King Shaka International (DUR). From Durban, St Lucia is about 3 hours by car. Richards Bay (RCB) has a few flights from Johannesburg and is about an hour from St Lucia.
Phinda has its own airstrip, served by scheduled light aircraft from Johannesburg. Lodges can also arrange road transfers.
A rental car gives you freedom to explore. Main roads are paved, but northern sections need a 4x4. Drive slowly in the park, where animals have right of way. Avoid driving at night, especially on rural roads, where livestock and potholes are common. Keep valuables hidden.
Food and Drink
KwaZulu-Natal has its own flavors. Durban curry is famous, with bunny chow, a hollowed loaf of bread filled with curry, an easy introduction. Try prawns or line fish cooked with local spices.
In St Lucia, small restaurants serve seafood, pizza and South African favorites. Eat early, as kitchens close by mid-evening in quieter months.
At Phinda and other lodges, meals are part of the stay. Expect generous breakfasts, light lunches and dinners in the boma or under the stars, with South African wine pairings.
Try fresh tropical fruit from roadside stalls, especially pineapple and litchis in summer. Drink bottled water in rural areas unless your lodge says otherwise.
Honeymoon Tips
Northern KwaZulu-Natal is a low-risk malaria area, with higher risk in summer. Talk to a travel clinic about prevention, use repellent and sleep under nets where provided. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices.
Hippos and crocodiles are dangerous. Never walk near the estuary at night or swim in the lakes. Swim only where it is clearly safe. Watch for rip currents on open beaches.
The US State Department rates South Africa at Level 2, mainly for crime. The park area is relaxed, but keep valuables hidden and lock your car.
Book turtle tours and Phinda lodges well ahead. Pack light clothes, a hat, reef shoes and something warm for winter evenings.
