Why Honeymoon in Alishan
Alishan offers a kind of romance that is earned. You set an alarm for 4 a.m., bundle up and ride a little train in the dark with other sleepy couples. Then the sky turns orange over a sea of clouds and the whole crowd goes quiet.
The forest itself is moody and beautiful. Mist drifts between trunks so wide that it takes several people to circle them. Moss covers fallen logs. Wooden walkways lead past ponds and small shrines.
The lower slopes add warmth and flavor. Tea plantations hang on steep hillsides. Indigenous Tsou villages welcome visitors with coffee, millet wine and grilled meat. The old railway town of Fenqihu sells boxed lunches that have been a tradition for decades.
After busy Taipei, Alishan feels remote, cool and calm. It makes a striking contrast with the lakes and cities on the rest of your trip.
When to Go
Autumn and early winter, from October into December, give the best odds of clear sunrises and a sea of clouds. Days are crisp, nights are cold and the forest is quiet on weekdays.
Spring is the most popular season. Cherry blossoms bloom around the forest recreation area from about March into April, drawing big crowds, especially on weekends. Fireflies appear in the lower forests around April and May.
Summer is the wettest time. The mountains get heavy rain in July and August, with typhoons that can close the highway and the railway. Afternoon fog is common all year, so plan hikes for the morning.
Winter nights can drop near freezing. Snow sometimes dusts the highest areas. Pack a warm jacket, hat and gloves for the predawn sunrise trip in any season except high summer.
Where to Stay
Most couples sleep inside the Alishan Forest Recreation Area so they can catch the early sunrise train. Lodging here is limited and books out on spring weekends. Alishan House, the historic hotel near the sacred tree area, is the most comfortable choice and has a heritage wing dating from the Japanese era. Simpler hotels near the bus and train station are basic but well placed.
For something more personal, stay below the recreation area in the tea villages around Shizhuo. Family-run homestays there often have balconies facing the valley, home-cooked dinners and tea fields right outside. You will need a car or an early taxi to reach the sunrise viewpoints.
Fenqihu, at about 4,600 feet, is another option, with a few guesthouses in a lantern-lit old street.
Wherever you stay, expect modest rooms and heaters rather than luxury suites.
Romantic Things to Do
Ride the Zhushan line before dawn to the sunrise viewing platform. Departure times change with the season and are posted the evening before at the station and in hotels.
Walk the giant tree trails after breakfast. The loop links the Sacred Tree station, the Sister Ponds and a series of enormous red cypresses, many labeled with their approximate ages. The light is softest before the afternoon clouds roll in.
Take the forest railway between Alishan and Fenqihu or down to Chiayi. The line climbs through bamboo, tea and cedar on spirals and switchbacks. It is a slow, lovely ride.
Spend an afternoon at a tea farm in Shizhuo or nearby villages, tasting high mountain oolong and walking the paths between rows of tea bushes.
Visit the Tsou village of Shanmei to see the Danayigu ecological park, where a community-protected stream is full of fish.
Getting There and Around
From Taipei, take the High Speed Rail to Chiayi in about 90 minutes. Buses run from the station up to the Alishan Forest Recreation Area in roughly two and a half hours on a winding mountain road. Book seats ahead on weekends.
The more scenic route is the Alishan Forest Railway, which starts in Chiayi city. Trains are limited and sell out, so reserve as early as possible. The ride is slower than the bus but is an experience in itself.
A private car with driver is the easiest way to combine Alishan with Sun Moon Lake, visit tea villages along the way and avoid timetables. The roads are narrow and twisting, so it is wise not to drive yourselves.
Inside the recreation area, everything is walkable. The recreation area charges a modest admission fee, so keep some cash handy.
Food and Drink
High mountain oolong is the drink here. The cool climate and frequent mist slow the tea's growth, giving it a floral, creamy flavor. Farmers serve it in tiny cups, refilling them again and again. They are happy to explain how each batch is processed.
In Fenqihu, try a railway bento, a lunchbox of rice, braised pork, egg and vegetables that dates back to the days when the train stopped here for meals. The old street also sells aiyu jelly and mountain snacks.
The Tsou villages serve grilled meats, millet wine and local coffee, which has developed a reputation among Taiwanese coffee lovers. Alishan also grows wasabi, which shows up in local dishes.
Inside the recreation area, dining options are limited and close early. Eat dinner at your hotel or near the station. Carry snacks for the predawn sunrise trip.
Honeymoon Tips
- Spend at least one night. Day trips miss the sunrise and the quiet evening forest.
- Book the forest railway and accommodations as early as possible, especially for cherry blossom season.
- Bring warm layers, a flashlight and good walking shoes. The sunrise trip is cold even when the lowlands are hot.
- Check typhoon and road conditions in summer and early fall; landslides can close routes.
- Visit the tea villages in the afternoon when the forest is foggy.
- Carry cash for small shops, homestays and tea farms.
- Pair Alishan with Sun Moon Lake by hired car for an easy two-stop mountain trip.
