Why the USVI for a Honeymoon
The practical case comes first. Domestic-style flights, US dollars and English everywhere make the logistics feel close to a long weekend in Florida, even though the scenery looks nothing like it. If one of you is still waiting on a passport, or you married in winter and want sun within a week, this is the obvious choice.
The romantic case is St. John. Roughly 60 percent of the island is Virgin Islands National Park, so the north shore is a string of undeveloped beaches backed by forest instead of condo towers. You can snorkel with turtles at Maho Bay in the morning and hike to the ruins at Annaberg before lunch.
St. Croix adds history and space. Christiansted and Frederiksted keep their 18th-century Danish street plans, the island has the territory's best diving and it is noticeably quieter than St. Thomas.
Best Time to Visit
December through April is the dry, breezy high season. Daytime highs sit in the low to mid 80s Fahrenheit, rain comes in short showers and the sea is usually calm on the south and west shores. It is also when rates and crowds peak, especially over Christmas, Presidents' Day week and spring break.
May, June and early July are a sweet spot. The water is warmer, the islands are greener and rooms often cost noticeably less. The trade winds can drop, so pick a room with good airflow or air conditioning.
Hurricane season runs June through November, with the highest risk from August into October. The 2017 storms Irma and Maria hit hard. Some properties still close in September for maintenance. If you travel then, buy insurance that covers named storms. Festivals worth knowing about include St. Thomas Carnival in spring and the Crucian Christmas Carnival on St. Croix from late December into early January.
Where to Go
St. John is the first choice for most honeymooners. It has no airport and no cruise ships at a dock. Its national park beaches are some of the clearest water in the Caribbean. Stay in or near Cruz Bay for restaurants, or in Coral Bay for quiet.
St. Thomas is the hub. Its east end, around Red Hook and Great Bay, holds the larger resorts and the ferry to St. John, while Charlotte Amalie offers old Danish warehouses, harbor views and shopping. It works well as a first or last night, or as a base for couples who want a full-service resort.
St. Croix suits couples who want to explore. Snorkel the underwater trail at Buck Island, watch sunrise from Point Udall, kayak the bioluminescent bay at Salt River and spend an evening on the Christiansted boardwalk. Smaller Water Island, a short ferry from St. Thomas, makes a good half-day beach escape.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
- Day 1: Land at St. Thomas and stay on the east end. Watch sunset from the hills above Red Hook.
- Day 2: Swim at Magens Bay early, then wander Charlotte Amalie's alleys and the 99 Steps.
- Day 3: Ferry from Red Hook to Cruz Bay, pick up your jeep and settle in on St. John.
- Day 4: Snorkel Trunk Bay's underwater trail, then Cinnamon Bay. Dinner in Cruz Bay.
- Day 5: Maho Bay turtles, Annaberg ruins, then Waterlemon Cay by afternoon.
- Day 6: Drive to Coral Bay for lunch and hike out to Ram Head in the late afternoon.
- Day 7: Day sail to Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands if you both have passports, or a private charter around St. John if not.
- Day 8: Fly the short hop to St. Croix. Settle into Christiansted.
- Day 9: Buck Island snorkel trip, rum tasting, then a night kayak at Salt River.
- Day 10: Sunrise at Point Udall, then fly home from STX or via STT.
Budget and Costs
The USVI are not a budget destination. Almost everything is shipped in, which shows up in grocery bills and restaurant menus. These are rough, approximate ranges for high season.
- Rooms: guesthouses and condos often start around $250 to $400 a night; good beach resorts commonly run $500 to $900; top suites and villas go well past $1,000.
- Rental car or jeep: often $90 to $150 a day on St. John in winter, a bit less on St. Croix.
- Dinner for two with drinks at a nice restaurant: about $150 to $250.
- Day sail or snorkel charter: shared trips run roughly $150 to $200 a person; private boats cost far more.
Summer and early fall rates can drop by a third or more. Villa rentals with a kitchen make sense for longer stays. When comparing quotes, check whether the territory's hotel room tax is already included.
Getting There and Around
Most couples fly into Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on St. Thomas, which has nonstops from Atlanta, Charlotte, Miami, New York JFK, Newark, Philadelphia, Dallas, Houston, Washington Dulles, Baltimore and Orlando, plus seasonal routes from Boston, Chicago and Minneapolis. Breeze has announced Tampa service. St. Croix's airport (STX) has fewer flights: Miami year-round, with seasonal Charlotte, Atlanta and Chicago and a Saturday United flight from Newark.
For St. John, take a taxi from STT to Red Hook (allow about 30 to 45 minutes) and a passenger ferry to Cruz Bay, roughly 20 minutes. Car barges also run from Red Hook if you rent on St. Thomas, though many rental companies forbid it. St. Thomas and St. Croix are linked by short commuter flights. Taxis use fixed per-person rates by destination, so ask the price first. Driving is on the left on all three islands.
Culture and Etiquette
Virgin Islanders are proud of a culture that blends West African, Danish, British and wider Caribbean roots. People notice when visitors treat the islands as a theme park. A good morning or good afternoon before any question goes a long way, in shops and on the safari taxi alike.
Beachwear belongs on the beach. Cover up in town, at the grocery store and in restaurants. On St. John, drivers often give a quick honk on blind curves and a wave to say thanks; return both.
Food is a good way in. Look for johnnycakes, saltfish, pates stuffed with conch or beef, fungi (a cornmeal side) and kallaloo. Tipping follows mainland norms, about 18 to 20 percent, but check bills for an included service charge. Protect the reefs by using mineral sunscreen; the territory has banned several chemical sunscreen ingredients. Never stand on coral or chase turtles. Give nesting beaches on St. Croix a wide berth.
Use the same care you would in any US city: take taxis at night in Charlotte Amalie and Christiansted rather than walking quiet streets and never leave bags in a parked car at the beach. Mosquitoes can carry dengue here, so pack repellent; if you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for the U.S. Virgin Islands.
Quick tips
- Traffic keeps left even though cars are left-hand drive, so take the first few roundabouts slowly.
- Book your St. John rental jeep when you book flights; the island runs out of cars in high season.
- Leave time at the airport going home: Customs and Border Protection screens everyone before the TSA line.
