Why Honeymoon on St. John
The national park is the reason. Because so much of the island is protected, you get a level of quiet that is rare this close to the mainland. Many beaches have no hotel at all, only a parking pull-off, a path through sea grapes and a few other couples.
The snorkeling is easy and good. At Maho Bay, green turtles graze on seagrass in water shallow enough to stand in. Waterlemon Cay, off Leinster Bay, has healthier coral and eagle rays.
St. John also suits couples who like to walk. More than 20 marked trails cross the park, past Danish plantation ruins and petroglyphs. Add the convenience of US dollars and no passport requirement for US citizens. The trip feels both remote and easy.
When to Go
December through April brings the most reliable weather: dry air, steady trade winds and highs in the low 80s. It is also when villas book out months ahead and jeep rentals become scarce, so plan early for a winter honeymoon.
May and June are excellent and often overlooked. The sea is warmer, rates drop and the beaches are emptier. Early July is similar, apart from the busy St. John Festival around the Fourth of July.
August through October is the core of hurricane season. Storms are far from certain, but Irma and Maria in 2017 showed how much damage they can do here. Some restaurants close for weeks in September. November is a reasonable gamble if you want lower prices before the holiday rush.
Where to Stay
Most visitors stay in rented villas. For a honeymoon that is often the best choice. Look for a place with a pool and a view toward the British Virgin Islands; the hills above Cruz Bay, Chocolate Hole and Great Cruz Bay give quick access to town.
Cruz Bay itself has small hotels and condos within walking distance of dinner. Gallows Point Resort sits on the point by the ferry dock. The Westin St. John occupies Great Cruz Bay. Coral Bay and the East End suit couples who want real seclusion and are happy to drive for supplies. As a rough guide, a one-bedroom villa with a pool often runs about $400 to $900 a night in winter and less in early summer.
For something different, Lovango Resort + Beach Club sits on a small cay just off St. John, with cabanas and a beach club reached by boat. The long-closed Caneel Bay resort has not been a lodging option for years, so check any listing that mentions it.
Romantic Things to Do
Start early at Trunk Bay, where an underwater snorkel trail with signs runs along the reef. A small park fee applies. Cinnamon Bay next door is quieter and good for a long swim.
Drive to Maho Bay in the morning, when turtles are feeding and the water is glassy. Then continue to Annaberg, where the stone windmill and boiling house of an 18th-century sugar estate look over the channel to Tortola. Leinster Bay starts nearby; walk the shoreline path and swim out to Waterlemon Cay.
Ram Head, on the south shore, is a short but hot hike over a cobble beach to a windy headland. Go in the late afternoon. Book a private boat for a day of snorkel stops, or take a sunset sail out of Cruz Bay.
Getting There and Around
Fly into St. Thomas (STT), which has nonstop flights from many East Coast and Southern hubs. Take a taxi to Red Hook on the east end, then a passenger ferry to Cruz Bay. Ferries run about hourly through the day and the crossing takes about 20 minutes. A slower ferry also runs from Charlotte Amalie on a limited schedule.
On the island, rent a jeep or small SUV. Roads are steep and narrow with tight switchbacks. Traffic keeps left. Reserve far in advance in high season. If you rent on St. Thomas, use the car barge from Red Hook, but confirm the rental company allows it.
Open-air safari taxis serve the north shore beaches at per-person rates, which works if you are based in Cruz Bay.
Food and Drink
Cruz Bay has the island's densest cluster of restaurants, from fish tacos and burgers to candlelit dining rooms with harbor views. Woody's Seafood Saloon is a raucous happy hour standby a block from the ferry. Prices are high because nearly everything arrives by boat.
In Coral Bay, Skinny Legs is a long-running bar and grill under a tin roof, known for its burgers and easy crowd. For a lunch you will remember, Lime Out is a floating taco bar anchored in Hansen Bay; you reach it by boat, kayak or paddleboard.
Stock the villa fridge on day one at the Cruz Bay markets. Bring a small cooler bag. Local painkillers, mixed with dark rum, coconut and pineapple, are the unofficial island drink.
Honeymoon Tips
Arrive at popular beaches before 9 a.m. to get parking and calm water. By midday, day-trippers from St. Thomas fill Trunk Bay.
Pack reef-safe mineral sunscreen, water shoes for Ram Head and a dry bag for the boat days. Several chemical sunscreen ingredients are banned in the territory.
Bring your passports even though you don't need them to enter. With them, a boat trip to Jost Van Dyke or the Baths on Virgin Gorda becomes an easy add-on.
Grocery runs take longer than you expect. Some restaurants close one or two nights a week, so reserve the special dinners. Finally, watch for the island's free-roaming donkeys and goats on the road, especially after dark.
