Why the Czech Republic for a Honeymoon
The Czech Republic suits couples who would rather walk than lie by a pool. Prague's Old Town, Lesser Town and Castle District are compact enough to explore on foot over three or four days. At night the Charles Bridge empties out and the castle is lit from below. That late walk across the river is the moment many couples remember most.
Outside the capital, the pace drops sharply. Český Krumlov is a town of about 13,000 people wrapped inside a loop of the Vltava, with a castle that is one of the largest in Central Europe. South Moravia trades castles for vineyards, Baroque palaces and village lanes lined with wine cellars.
It is also a strong value. A beautiful room in a converted palace in Prague costs far less than its equivalent in Paris or Vienna. Dinner with local wine rarely stings. That leaves room in the budget for a private guide, a concert in a Baroque church or an extra night in the countryside.
Best Time to Visit
May, June and September are the sweet spot. Days are long and mild, with highs in the 60s and 70s. Gardens are open, castle tours run full schedules and beer gardens fill every evening. Late September is harvest time in Moravia, when villages sell burčák, a cloudy, half fermented young wine that only exists for a few weeks.
July and August are warm, with highs in the mid 70s and the occasional hot spell or thunderstorm. They are also the busiest months in Prague and Český Krumlov, so book rooms early and start sightseeing at opening time.
Winter is cold and often gray, with temperatures hovering around freezing. It has a real upside from late November until early January, when Christmas markets fill Prague's squares with mulled wine, carols and wooden stalls. Many castle interiors outside Prague close from November to March, so a winter trip should center on the capital. April and October are cool shoulder months with thinner crowds and lower rates.
Where to Go
Prague deserves at least four nights. Stay in Malá Strana for quiet lanes below the castle or in the Old Town for easy evening walks. Give the days to the castle grounds, Petřín Hill, Vyšehrad and the river. Evenings belong to wine bars and beer gardens.
Český Krumlov is the classic second stop, about three hours south. It works best with two nights, so you can see the town after the day trippers leave. Canoe the Vltava in summer and catch a performance at the castle's open air theater.
South Moravia is the wine region, centered on the towns of Mikulov and Valtice and the Lednice-Valtice landscape of palaces, ponds and follies. Two or three nights there feel like a vacation within the vacation.
If you have more time, add Karlovy Vary for spa hotels and colonnades or Kutná Hora as a day trip from Prague for its Gothic cathedral and bone chapel.
Sample 10-Day Itinerary
This route runs north to south. You can fly home from Prague or slip across the border to Vienna, which often has more nonstop flights to the US.
- Days 1 to 4: Prague. Walk the Old Town and Charles Bridge on day one, the castle and Strahov Monastery on day two, then Vyšehrad, a river cruise and a concert. Take a half day for Kutná Hora by train.
- Days 5 to 6: Český Krumlov. Castle tour, gardens, the tower at sunset and a lazy canoe trip if the weather is warm.
- Day 7: Drive or take a transfer east toward Moravia. Stop at the white palace of Hluboká on the way if you have a car.
- Days 8 to 10: South Moravia. Base yourselves in Mikulov or Valtice. Cycle between the Lednice palaces, climb to the Holy Hill chapel and book a cellar tasting each evening. On the last day head to Vienna, about an hour away, for your flight.
Budget and Costs
These are approximate ranges for two people and they shift with the exchange rate and season.
In Prague, a well reviewed boutique hotel in a historic building typically runs about $150 to $300 a night. The city's top luxury hotels start well above that in summer. In Český Krumlov and Moravia, charming guesthouses and small hotels often cost $90 to $180.
Food is where the country shines. A traditional lunch with a half liter of beer can come in under $20 for two away from the main squares. A tasting menu at one of Prague's better restaurants might run $150 to $300 with wine pairings. Beer in a neighborhood pub costs a fraction of what it does on Old Town Square, so walk a few blocks before you sit down.
Trains and buses are cheap and comfortable. Castle tours and museum tickets usually cost $10 to $20 each. A private car between Prague and Český Krumlov is a splurge that saves time, roughly $150 to $250.
Getting There and Around
Prague's Václav Havel Airport (PRG) sits about 30 minutes from the center by car. Seasonal nonstops from New York and Philadelphia have run in summer, but routes change, so check before you book. Most of the year you will connect in a major European hub. Vienna is a smart alternative gateway for the south of the country.
Inside the country, trains run by České dráhy, RegioJet and Leo Express link Prague with Brno and České Budějovice. Comfortable private buses reach Český Krumlov directly in about three hours.
A rental car makes the most sense for Moravia's villages and the castles of South Bohemia. Highways require an electronic vignette, which you buy online before you drive. Skip the car in Prague entirely. Trams, the metro and your own feet are faster than any taxi. One ticket system covers all of them. The PID Lítačka app sells tickets on your phone.
Culture and Etiquette
Czechs can seem reserved at first. A polite "dobrý den" when you enter a shop or restaurant goes a long way. Service is efficient rather than chatty, which is a cultural difference and not rudeness.
Beer is close to sacred. When you toast, say "na zdraví," look each person in the eye and do not cross arms with anyone. In busy pubs it is normal to ask whether you can share a table with strangers. A waiter may keep bringing fresh beers until you set a coaster on top of your glass.
Tipping is usually about 10 percent in restaurants. Tell the server the total you want to pay when you hand over your card instead of leaving cash on the table.
If you are invited into a home, take your shoes off at the door. Churches expect covered shoulders and quiet voices. Many shops in smaller towns close early on Saturday and on Sunday.
Food and Drink Worth Planning Around
Czech cooking is built for cold winters. The dish to try first is svíčková, beef sirloin in a creamy root vegetable sauce with bread dumplings, cranberries and a dab of whipped cream. Roast pork with sauerkraut and dumplings is the everyday classic. Open faced sandwiches called chlebíčky make a good light lunch.
Pilsner was invented in Plzeň in 1842. The beer tastes noticeably fresher here than the bottles you get at home. Try a tank pub, where unpasteurized beer comes straight from tanks in the cellar.
The wine surprises most visitors. Nearly all of it comes from Moravia, with crisp whites made from Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and the local Pálava grape. Prague has a fast growing scene of natural wine bars and modern Czech kitchens. Look for weekday lunch menus, called denní menu, for some of the best value meals in Europe.
Quick tips
- Pay in koruna and decline card terminals that offer to charge you in dollars.
- Use Bolt, Uber or Liftago in Prague instead of hailing a cab on the street.
- Book Prague Castle and Český Krumlov castle tours online in summer.
