Honeymoon in France

Alsace

Half-timbered villages, riesling at the source and Christmas lights in the snow

FranceBest: May–DecEuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse
Original illustration
The short answer

Alsace is a storybook honeymoon of half-timbered villages, family wine cellars and cozy winstubs, an easy train ride from Paris. Go in May and June or for the September and October harvest; late November through December brings France's most famous Christmas markets, so book months ahead. Base in Colmar or a wine village like Eguisheim for three or four nights. Stays range from village guesthouses to Villa René Lalique. Don't miss tasting riesling at a family estate along the Route des Vins.

Best for
  • Wine lovers who like small producers
  • Couples dreaming of Christmas markets
  • Food lovers adding on from Paris
Maybe skip it if
  • You want beaches or warm-water swimming
  • Summer day-trip crowds would bother you

Alsace looks like a storybook come to life. Window boxes spill geraniums over half-timbered houses painted ochre, blue and rose. Storks nest on church towers. Vineyards climb the foothills of the Vosges mountains. Every few miles another walled village appears among the vines.

The region sits on France's eastern edge against the Rhine. Centuries of moving back and forth between France and Germany show in its food, wine and place names. You'll eat tarte flambée and sauerkraut, drink dry riesling and hear an Alsatian dialect in the villages.

For honeymooners, Alsace offers two distinct trips. In late spring through autumn it's a wine country escape, with tastings, bike rides and long dinners in cozy winstubs. From late November through December it becomes the home of France's most famous Christmas markets. Base in Colmar or a wine village and plan on three or four nights.

Best time to visit Alsace

Peak months: May, June, September, October, December

BestGood / shoulderLow season (rain, heat, storms or closures)
Best months
May to June, September to October and December
Shoulder
April, July to August and November
Getting there
EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse (BSL), about 45 minutes to Colmar; the TGV from Paris reaches Strasbourg in under 2 hours
Country
France
From the US
Paris CDG has nonstops from about two dozen US airports, including New York JFK and Newark, Boston, Washington Dulles, Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Miami, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Nice adds seasonal summer nonstops from Newark, JFK, Washington Dulles and Boston. Plan on 7 to 8 hours overnight from the East Coast and about 11 from California.
Don’t miss

Alsace at a glance

  • Flat-bottomed boat through Colmar's Little Venice
  • Wine route drive from Eguisheim to Riquewihr
  • Strasbourg Cathedral and the Petite France quarter
  • Mulled wine at a candlelit Christmas market
  • Hilltop views from Haut-Kœnigsbourg castle

Best months: May, June, September, October, December

Why Honeymoon in Alsace

Charm is concentrated here in a way that's hard to find elsewhere. Colmar's old town, with its canals and colorful houses, is compact enough to wander in a morning. The wine villages along the Route des Vins, such as Riquewihr, Eguisheim and Kaysersberg, sit only a few miles apart.

The wine is a big draw. Alsace is one of the few French regions that labels wines by grape: riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, pinot blanc and muscat. Many producers are small family estates in the villages themselves, so tastings feel personal.

The region also suits couples who love food. Strasbourg and the villages have many Michelin-starred restaurants for their size, along with traditional winstubs serving hearty plates and local wine by the pitcher.

It's an easy add-on from Paris by train. It also combines well with Champagne or with a short hop into Switzerland or Germany's Black Forest.

When to Go

May and June bring green vineyards, flower boxes and mild weather. September and October are harvest months, with golden vines, new wine festivals and pleasant temperatures. These are the best times for wine-focused trips.

July and August are warm and busy, especially in Colmar and Riquewihr, where tour buses arrive by mid-morning. Stay in a quieter village and explore early or late.

The Christmas market season runs from late November through December. Strasbourg's market dates back to 1570 and is among the oldest in Europe. Colmar, Kaysersberg, Riquewihr and Eguisheim have their own markets, each decorated with lights and greenery. It's a cozy, romantic time but crowded on weekends, so plan weekday visits and book hotels months in advance.

January through March is cold and quiet. Many hotels and restaurants close for a winter break.

Where to Stay

  • Colmar: the most convenient base, with train links, many restaurants and the canals of Little Venice. La Maison des Têtes is a historic hotel in a 17th-century building decorated with carved faces on its façade.
  • Wine villages: Riquewihr, Eguisheim, Kaysersberg and Ribeauvillé have small hotels and guesthouses inside medieval walls. Evenings are quiet once day visitors leave.
  • Strasbourg: a lively city with a grand cathedral and the canals of Petite France. Good for a night or two of city life.
  • Northern Alsace: Villa René Lalique in Wingen-sur-Moder is a luxury hotel and restaurant set in the glass designer's former home, with Lalique crystal throughout.

Many couples split their time: two nights in a wine village or Colmar, then one or two in Strasbourg. Book well ahead for December.

Romantic Things to Do

Take a flat-bottomed boat ride through Little Venice in Colmar, gliding under footbridges and past flower-covered houses. See the Isenheim Altarpiece at the Unterlinden Museum.

Drive or cycle the Route des Vins between villages. Eguisheim, built in concentric circles around its castle, is especially lovely early in the morning. In Riquewihr, climb the Dolder tower and taste at a family estate. In Kaysersberg, walk up to the ruined castle for views over the rooftops.

Visit Haut-Kœnigsbourg, a restored medieval castle high above the plain with views to the Black Forest on a clear day.

In Strasbourg, climb the cathedral platform, see its astronomical clock and take a boat tour around the island center. At Christmas, sip vin chaud from a market stall and wander under the lights.

Getting There and Around

From Paris Gare de l'Est, the TGV reaches Strasbourg in under two hours and Colmar in roughly two and a half. EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse, on the Swiss border, is about 45 minutes from Colmar and has connections across Europe. Strasbourg has its own smaller airport.

A car is the easiest way to see the wine route. The road winds about 100 miles from north to south, but the most popular villages cluster within a short drive of Colmar. Parking lots sit outside the village walls.

If you'd rather not drive, regional buses connect Colmar with several villages. Bike paths run through the vineyards. E-bike rentals in Colmar and the villages are a fun way to taste wine without worrying about driving.

Strasbourg's center is walkable, with trams for longer hops.

Food and Drink

Alsatian food is generous. Tarte flambée, or flammekueche, is a thin flatbread topped with crème fraîche, onions and bacon, best shared hot from a wood oven. Choucroute garnie piles sauerkraut with sausages and pork. Baeckeoffe is a slow-baked casserole of meats and potatoes sealed in a clay pot.

Save room for munster cheese, kougelhopf cake and, in December, bredele Christmas cookies.

The wines are mostly white and many are dry. Riesling and pinot gris pair beautifully with the local food. Gewurztraminer is aromatic and often slightly sweet. Crémant d'Alsace is a good-value sparkling wine.

Eat at least once in a winstub, a traditional wine tavern with wood paneling and checkered tablecloths. For a special dinner, the region has a high density of starred restaurants.

Honeymoon Tips

Stay in a village rather than doing day trips from Strasbourg. Evenings after the crowds leave are the best part.

Visit popular villages early in the morning or late in the afternoon, especially in summer and December.

Book December hotels as early as possible. Christmas market season fills rooms months ahead.

Many wine producers welcome visitors without appointments, but avoid lunchtime when cellars often close.

Pack warm clothes for December. Temperatures often hover around freezing. You'll spend hours outdoors at the markets.

Remember that some restaurants close one or two days a week. Check before driving to a particular place for dinner.

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FAQ

Alsace honeymoon FAQ

Is Colmar or Strasbourg better for a honeymoon?

Colmar is smaller and closer to the wine villages, making it the more romantic base for most couples. Strasbourg is a larger city with more restaurants, shopping and a famous cathedral. Many couples stay in Colmar or a wine village and visit Strasbourg on a day trip or for a final night.

When are the Alsace Christmas markets?

They usually open in late November and run through late December, with some closing right after Christmas. Strasbourg, Colmar, Kaysersberg, Riquewihr and Eguisheim all host markets. Weekends are very crowded, so visit on weekdays if you can. Book hotels several months in advance.

Do we need a car in Alsace?

A car is the easiest way to see the wine villages, but it's not required. Trains link Strasbourg and Colmar, regional buses serve several villages and bike paths run through the vineyards. Some tour operators offer small-group wine route tours from Colmar if you'd rather not drive.

What wines is Alsace known for?

Alsace is best known for white wines, especially riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris and pinot blanc. Unusually for France, bottles are labeled by grape variety. The region also makes crémant d'Alsace, a sparkling wine, plus a small amount of light red pinot noir. Grand cru vineyards produce the most prized bottles.

How many days should we spend in Alsace?

Three to four nights is a good honeymoon stay. That gives you a day in Colmar, a day or two on the wine route and a day in Strasbourg. With more time, add hiking in the Vosges mountains or a trip across the Rhine to Germany's Black Forest.

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