Why Honeymoon in Ilulissat
Most places with scenery on this scale require a long drive or a hard hike to reach it. Here you can walk from your room to the rim of a UNESCO World Heritage fjord in under an hour. The icefjord earned that status in 2004, both for its beauty and for what its glacier has taught scientists about a warming climate.
The ice is never still. Bergs crack with a sound like a rifle shot, roll over to show blue undersides and slowly break apart. Sitting on the rocks above the fjord with a thermos of coffee and nobody else in sight is the kind of moment couples bring home.
Ilulissat also has the best hotel choice in Greenland outside Nuuk. It has decent restaurants and enough excursions to fill a week without repeating yourself.
When to Go
June through August is peak season. Daytime temperatures usually sit in the 40s and low 50s°F, boats run several times a day and the midnight sun lasts from about late May to late July. Late August brings the first proper sunsets, which many photographers prefer.
March and April are the winter alternative. The days lengthen quickly, the snow is good for dog sledding and the sea ice in sheltered bays can be firm. Temperatures often drop below 0°F at night, so you need serious clothing. Northern lights are possible from September into early April.
September is quieter and cheaper, with the tundra turning red. From November to January the town is dark for weeks around the solstice, many tours pause and the trip becomes much harder to recommend for a first visit.
Where to Stay
Hotel Arctic is the best known address, set on a rise at the edge of town with views over the bay toward the icefjord. Beside it are its igloo-shaped aluminum cabins, which are small but have big windows facing the ice. Book them well ahead for June and July.
In town, Hotel Icefjord and Hotel Hvide Falk both look over the water and keep you within walking distance of the harbor and restaurants. Smaller guesthouses and apartments suit couples who want a kitchen to offset restaurant prices.
For something quieter, look across the bay at Ilimanaq, a tiny settlement south of the fjord mouth reached by boat. It has a small lodge of wooden cabins that is popular with couples. Ask about room views when booking anywhere, since a room facing the icebergs changes the stay.
Romantic Things to Do
The essential outing is an evening or midnight boat trip to the edge of the icefjord. Small boats nose between the grounded bergs. In summer humpback whales often feed nearby.
Next, take the boardwalk and trails to Sermermiut, a valley where people lived on and off for around 4,000 years. The old settlement site sits right above the fjord mouth. The views at sunset are the reason many visitors come back.
A full day trip to the Eqi glacier, north of town, puts you in front of a wall of ice that calves into the sea with thundering regularity. Some boats include lunch at a small camp.
In winter, book a dog sled ride, from an hour to a full day. Helicopter landings on the ice sheet and kayaking among small bergs are splurges worth considering.
Getting There and Around
You reach Ilulissat by air. Most travelers fly from Nuuk or Kangerlussuaq on Air Greenland, about an hour or a little more. In summer, Icelandair has flown direct from Reykjavik, which pairs nicely with a stop in Iceland. The airport has been expanding to take larger jets, so check for new direct routes before booking.
The current airport is a short ride from town. Hotels usually meet flights. Within Ilulissat you walk or take a taxi. Distances are small, but the streets are hilly and icy in winter. Coastal boats connect to other Disko Bay settlements in summer.
Build at least one free day into your plan. Fog regularly delays flights. Missing an international connection here is expensive.
Food and Drink
Menus lean on what the sea and the hunters provide. Greenland halibut, cold water shrimp, snow crab, musk ox and reindeer are the regulars. You may also see whale and seal. Restaurant Ulo at Hotel Arctic serves local ingredients with views of the bay. Several hotels put on Greenlandic buffets in summer, which are a good way to taste a little of everything.
Prices are high because nearly everything arrives by ship or plane. Fresh vegetables are scarce, so salads are not the strong suit.
Try a Greenlandic coffee at least once. It is a flaming production of coffee, whisky, coffee liqueur and orange liqueur topped with cream. Craft beer brewed with meltwater from the ice cap turns up in bars around town.
Honeymoon Tips
Pack for wind, not just cold. Even in July a boat trip at midnight can feel close to freezing, so bring a warm hat, gloves and a windproof shell. Many operators lend survival suits on winter trips.
Book the midnight boat trip for your first good weather evening rather than your last night. If it is canceled, you still have time to try again.
Respect the sled dogs. They are working animals, often chained near the paths. They are not pets. Keep your distance from adults and ask before approaching puppies.
Carry some cash for small shops. Accept that schedules here bend to the sea and sky. Couples who leave slack in their days enjoy Ilulissat far more than those chasing a checklist.
