Why Honeymoon in Assinie
Assinie gives you two kinds of water in one place. Wake up to a still lagoon, swim or paddle before breakfast, then walk a few minutes across the sand to watch the Atlantic surf. The contrast never quite stops being striking.
It is also easy. The drive from Abidjan airport is straightforward and you can combine it with a stop in colonial Grand-Bassam. Once you arrive, there is little to organize. Most days involve a lounger, a boat trip and a long lunch of grilled fish.
The atmosphere is relaxed and stylish rather than glossy. Hotels range from simple lagoon bungalows to upscale resorts. The restaurants serve some of the best seafood on the coast. Few Americans come, so you will mostly share the beach with Ivorians and French expatriates, which gives the place an unforced, local feel.
When to Go
December to April is the best time to visit. This is the main dry season, with hot sunny days in the high 80s °F, warm water and calm lagoon conditions. The harmattan can bring a light dusty haze between December and February, though the coast is less affected than inland.
The long rains run from about May to July, peaking in June. Storms can be heavy and some hotels reduce services. August and September are usually drier and cooler, a good shoulder option with fewer crowds. Shorter rains return in October and November.
Weekends and holidays, especially around Christmas, New Year and Easter, bring crowds from Abidjan and higher prices. If you can, arrive on a Sunday evening and leave on a Friday. You will have the lagoon almost to yourselves.
Where to Stay
Assinie's hotels are spread along the peninsula, which the locals call Assinie-Mafia, with most rooms facing either the lagoon or the ocean. Lagoon-side properties are calmer and better for swimming, with private jetties, kayaks and sunset views over the water. Ocean-side hotels have long beaches and the sound of surf, but the sea is often too rough to swim.
The best choice for many couples is a hotel set between both, with a pool, lagoon access and a path to the beach. Look for bungalows with air conditioning and a private terrace.
Near La Passe at the end of the strip are some of the larger resorts and villas, where boats can reach the lagoon mouth. Book well ahead for weekends and holidays. Ask whether transfers from Abidjan are included and whether rooms have reliable power and hot water.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a pirogue, a traditional wooden canoe, through the mangroves and channels of the Aby Lagoon. Boatmen can stop at fishing villages or small islands for a swim. Go late in the day for golden light and birdlife.
Book a boat trip to the Ehotile Islands National Park, a group of small islands in the lagoon known for their forest, birds and archaeological sites. It makes a calm half-day outing.
Spend an afternoon on the ocean beach watching the surf and walking at low tide. Horseback riding along the sand is sometimes offered by local operators. On the lagoon, try stand-up paddleboarding or kayaking in the morning when the water is flat.
On the way in or out, stop in Grand-Bassam for its colonial quarter, craft shops and a seafood lunch overlooking the sea.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Abidjan's Félix Houphouët-Boigny International Airport (ABJ). There are no regular nonstop flights from the US, so most couples connect through Paris, Brussels, Casablanca, Addis Ababa or Lomé.
From the airport, Assinie is about 80 kilometers east, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours by car. The coastal road passes Grand-Bassam, which makes an easy stop. Arrange a private transfer through your hotel and travel in daylight.
Once in Assinie, the main road runs along the peninsula and hotels are spread along it. Most couples stay put and use hotel boats or local pirogues to get around the lagoon. Some resorts also offer boat transfers from the lagoon shore. Taxis can be arranged by your hotel for short trips.
Food and Drink
Seafood rules in Assinie. Try poisson braisé, whole fish grilled over charcoal and served with a fiery tomato and onion sauce. It usually comes with attiéké, a light, fluffy cassava couscous, or alloco, fried ripe plantain.
Grilled prawns and lobster appear on many menus, along with kedjenou, a slow-cooked chicken stew cooked in a sealed pot. Garba, attiéké with fried tuna and chili, is the classic Ivorian street meal.
For drinks, try bissap (hibiscus), gnamankoudji (ginger) or fresh coconut water. Local beers are widely available. Palm wine can sometimes be found in villages. Many hotel restaurants also serve French dishes and wine.
Drink bottled water and choose busy places for seafood.
Honeymoon Tips
Do not swim in the Atlantic unless conditions are calm and lifeguards are on duty. Currents along this coast are dangerous and drownings happen. Use the lagoon or the pool instead.
Go midweek. Weekends can be crowded and noisy, while weekdays are calm and prices are sometimes lower.
Bring cash in CFA francs. Larger hotels accept cards, but smaller restaurants and boat operators often take cash only.
Use repellent and take malaria tablets, especially near the mangroves at dusk.
Speak some French. English is limited and a few phrases make everything smoother. Finally, tell your hotel it is your honeymoon. Many will arrange a candlelit dinner on the lagoon shore.