Why Honeymoon on Vieques
Most Caribbean islands with beaches this good have resorts lined up along them. Vieques does not, because so much of the coast is protected refuge land. You drive a jeep down a dirt track, park under a sea grape tree and walk onto a curve of pale sand with the water going from clear to turquoise to deep blue. On a weekday there may be one other couple.
The island also has a genuine nighttime spectacle. Paddling through Mosquito Bay on a dark night, every stroke and every fish leaves a trail of blue-green light. It is one of the few honeymoon experiences that sounds exaggerated until you see it.
Vieques rewards couples who are happy with a simple room, a good dinner and a beach day that runs on no schedule at all. It is the wrong pick for anyone who wants a spa menu, a casino or a nightly show.
When to Go
December through May is the best window. Rain is light, the sea on the south coast is usually calm and the bio bay tours run with fewer weather cancellations. January through April is the busiest stretch, so book lodging and the ferry or flight early.
June and July are hotter but still good, with short showers and better rates. August through October is peak hurricane season. Some guesthouses and restaurants close for a few weeks in September or October. Ferry service can also be disrupted by weather.
The moon matters more here than almost anywhere. The bay glows brightest when the sky is darkest, so try to plan your trip around the new moon. A full moon week still works, but the light is noticeably weaker. Tour operators publish their schedules by moon phase, which makes a useful planning calendar.
Where to Stay
Esperanza, on the south coast, is the best base for most honeymooners. You can walk to dinner along the malecón (the waterfront promenade) and Sun Bay and the bio bay launch points are a few minutes away. Lodging here runs to small hotels, guesthouses and apartments with balconies over the water.
The hills between the two towns hold most of the island's villas and a few small hotels. Hacienda Tamarindo, a long-running inn built around an enormous tamarind tree with views to the Caribbean, is one well-known option geared to adults. Rentals up here often have plunge pools and sunset decks, which suits couples who want privacy.
Isabel Segunda is practical rather than pretty, but handy if you arrive by ferry. Before paying a deposit, ask if the price includes a jeep, since some villas bundle one and island rental fleets sell out in high season.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a Mosquito Bay tour by kayak or clear-bottom electric boat for one of your darkest nights. Swimming is not allowed. Guides ask you to skip bug spray beforehand to protect the organisms that create the glow.
Spend a day working along the refuge beaches on the south shore. Caracas, often called Red Beach, has calm water and good snorkeling. Pata Prieta is a smaller cove a short drive farther east. La Chiva, also called Blue Beach, has several pullouts and offshore reefs.
West of Esperanza on the south coast, follow a short creek path to Playa Negra, a small beach of black volcanic sand. Up north, visit Fortín Conde de Mirasol above Isabel Segunda, a 19th-century Spanish fort turned museum. For a quieter day, drive to Green Beach at the western tip, where the water looks across to the main island and the sunsets are excellent. A boat trip to Culebra makes a good change of pace.
Getting There and Around
There are two ways over. The ferry leaves from Ceiba on Puerto Rico's east coast, about an hour by car from San Juan. The crossing takes roughly an hour. It is cheap, but tickets sell out on weekends and holidays and schedules change month to month, so buy online in advance and check for delays the day before.
The more reliable option is a small plane. Cape Air flies from San Juan's main airport, while Vieques Air Link has flown from Ceiba and San Juan's Isla Grande airport. Flights take about 30 minutes or less, offer low views of the east coast cays and have strict baggage limits.
Once on the island you need wheels. Rent a jeep, since many beach roads are rutted dirt tracks. Taxis and públicos exist but are spread thin, especially at night. Gas stations are few, so fill up when you see one.
Food and Drink
Eating on Vieques is casual and good. Esperanza's malecón has the highest concentration of restaurants, from fish tacos and burgers to grilled catch of the day with tostones. Dinner with a view of the water is the default. Most places are open-air.
Look for empanadillas and alcapurrias at roadside stands, fresh fish sold near the docks and pinchos, grilled skewers, at weekend kiosks. Locals drink Medalla beer and Don Q rum. A cold piña colada on the malecón at sunset is a fine ritual.
A few practical points. Restaurant hours are short and variable. Many kitchens close by 9 pm or take one or two nights off each week. Groceries cost more than on the main island because everything arrives by boat. If you have a kitchen, bring a few staples over from a mainland supermarket. Reservations help for weekend dinners in high season.
Honeymoon Tips
Arrive with a buffer. Ferries are canceled more often than visitors expect, so book your last night before flying home on the main island instead of on Vieques.
Reserve the bio bay tour as soon as you know your dates, choosing the darkest night of your stay. Bring a light rain jacket, since a shower on the water can be chilly.
Refuge beaches have gates with opening hours, roughly daylight only, with limited or no facilities. Pack water, snacks, shade and reef-safe sunscreen. Leave nothing in the jeep, since break-ins at remote lots do happen.
Give the horses space. They are owned, wander freely and can kick. Drive slowly at night, when they stand in the road without warning.
Cash is useful for small kiosks and some taxis, though most restaurants take cards. ATMs are limited to the two towns.
