Why Honeymoon in San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel is one of the most beautiful small towns in Mexico. You can spend days walking it without ever getting bored of the doorways. It also has an outsized food, art and hotel scene for a town of around 70,000 people, partly thanks to a large community of American and Canadian residents that dates back to the art schools of the mid 20th century.
That combination makes it easy. English is widely spoken in hotels and restaurants. Boutique hotels are excellent. Yet the town still belongs to its Mexican residents, with church festivals, processions and brass bands in El Jardín on weekend evenings.
The highland climate is a bonus for couples who melt at the beach. Days are warm and sunny for much of the year while nights are cool enough for a fireplace. It also pairs well with a beach stay, giving a two-part honeymoon of culture followed by sand.
Safety First
Guanajuato state carries a Level 3 advisory from the State Department, largely because of cartel-related violence in industrial cities in the south of the state, such as Celaya, Salamanca and Irapuato. In the most recent version we could check, US government employees were barred from those cities and from areas south of Highway 45D. San Miguel itself had no such restrictions.
In practice, visitors to San Miguel report the usual concerns of any busy tourist town: pickpockets, slippery cobblestones and overpriced taxis. Still, a Level 3 rating deserves respect. Book transfers with established companies, travel between the airport and town in daylight and do not detour through the restricted areas. Check travel.state.gov shortly before you book and again before you leave, since the wording changes from time to time.
If the rating makes you uneasy, Mérida in Yucatán offers a similar colonial atmosphere in a state rated Level 1.
When to Go
October through April is dry, sunny and mild. Daytime highs sit in the 70s and low 80s Fahrenheit. Nights in December and January can drop close to freezing, so choose a room with heating or a fireplace and pack a warm layer for evenings on rooftops.
May is the hottest month, with highs in the upper 80s. The hills are brown before the rains. June through September brings afternoon thunderstorms that usually clear by evening. The countryside turns green and the crowds thin.
The festival calendar is busy. Late September brings the fiestas for the town's patron saint, with fireworks and dancers. Day of the Dead in early November is popular and books up early. Holy Week is atmospheric, with solemn processions through the old streets. Weekends year-round fill with visitors from Mexico City and Querétaro, so plan midweek nights if you can.
Where to Stay
Stay in or close to the historic center so you can walk to dinner. The hills are steep and the stones are uneven, so being within a few blocks of El Jardín saves a lot of effort.
- Boutique hotels in colonial mansions: the town's specialty. Expect courtyards, fireplaces, rooftop terraces and anywhere from a handful to a few dozen rooms. Casa de Sierra Nevada, a collection of restored houses near the center, is a long-standing favorite.
- Larger luxury hotels: the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende sits a short walk from the center with gardens, a spa and a rooftop bar facing the Parroquia.
- Rental houses: popular for longer stays. Many come with staff, terraces and views, but check how steep the walk to town is.
Ask for a room with a terrace that faces the Parroquia. That view at sunset is the image most couples take home.
Romantic Things to Do
Make sunset a ritual. Several rooftop bars face the Parroquia. The facade turns from pink to orange to glowing as the lights come on.
Take a hot air balloon at dawn. Flights drift over the town, the reservoir and the surrounding ranches, then usually end with a toast on the ground.
Spend a morning at La Gruta, a hot spring near the village of Atotonilco, where a tunnel leads into a warm domed pool. Pair it with the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, whose painted ceilings earned it a place in the UNESCO listing.
Wander El Charco del Ingenio, a botanical garden of cacti and agaves above a canyon on the edge of town. Browse the galleries and design shops in Fábrica La Aurora, an old textile mill.
Finally, drive out to the vineyards between San Miguel and Dolores Hidalgo for a tasting lunch among the vines.
Getting There and Around
There is no airport in town. Querétaro (QRO) is about an hour and fifteen minutes away and has had nonstop service from US hubs such as Houston and Dallas/Fort Worth. Bajío/León (BJX) is about an hour and a half away, with routes from cities such as Houston, Dallas/Fort Worth, Atlanta, Los Angeles and Chicago. Routes change seasonally, so confirm before you book. Mexico City is about three and a half to four hours by road and makes a good first stop.
Most couples arrange a private or shared shuttle from the airport, which is simpler and safer than renting a car. Plan your arrival in daylight.
Once in town, walk. Taxis are cheap and plentiful for the steeper climbs. Uber operates in the area too. You will only want a car or driver for day trips to the vineyards, hot springs or the city of Guanajuato.
Food and Drink
San Miguel eats very well for its size. You will find refined Mexican tasting menus, wood-fired pizza, French bistros and serious coffee, often in courtyards strung with lights.
Start the day with pastries or chilaquiles. For lunch, follow locals to the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez for gorditas and fresh juices, or grab tacos from a street stand near the Jardín in the evening.
Rooftop dining is a local signature. Reserve a table for sunset and ask specifically for a view of the Parroquia. Many restaurants close one day a week and the best tables go fast on weekends.
Guanajuato wine has improved quickly. Local labels appear on most lists. Ask for something from the vineyards near Dolores Hidalgo. Mezcal and tequila bars are plentiful, though at this altitude drinks hit harder than at sea level.
Honeymoon Tips
- Bring shoes with grip. The cobblestones are steep and polished. Leave the heels at home.
- Take it easy the first day. At 6,200 feet, drink water and go light on alcohol until you adjust.
- Pack layers. A sunny 80°F afternoon can turn into a chilly evening on a rooftop.
- Book rooftop dinners and balloon flights early, especially for weekends and holidays.
- Combine San Miguel with Guanajuato city for a night, or with Mexico City at the start of the trip.
- Stick to daylight road travel between the airport and town and recheck the advisory the week you fly.
