Why Honeymoon in San Juan del Sur
The coast here is wild in a way most of Costa Rica's Guanacaste no longer is. North of town, dirt roads lead to coves like Playa Marsella and Playa Maderas, framed by forested headlands. South of town, Playa Remanso, Playa Hermosa and Playa El Coco run toward the turtle refuge at La Flor. Many beaches have no road-front development at all.
Prices are also lower than across the border. A couple can rent a hillside casita with an ocean view, hire a private boat for an afternoon and eat grilled snapper every night for far less than the same week near Tamarindo.
The tradeoff is infrastructure and the national situation. Roads to the best beaches are rough, the nearest well-equipped hospitals are in Managua and the political climate requires discretion. If you accept those conditions, this stretch of coast is quiet and beautiful.
When to Go
The dry season from December through April brings almost guaranteed sun. From roughly December to March, strong offshore winds blow from Lake Nicaragua across the narrow isthmus. They groom the surf and keep afternoons pleasant but can make boat trips choppy and beach umbrellas a challenge.
April is hot and Semana Santa, the week before Easter, fills the town with Nicaraguan vacationers. Book far ahead or avoid it.
From May to November the rains arrive, usually as heavy afternoon and evening storms. July often has a drier break locals call the canícula. September and October are the wettest months, when dirt roads can wash out and some small lodges close. On the plus side, the hills turn green and olive ridley turtles nest at La Flor in large numbers during the second half of the year.
Where to Stay
Town is convenient for restaurants but noisy on weekends, when backpacker bars and the well-known Sunday party crawl take over. Couples generally do better a few miles out.
North of town, the hills above Playa Marsella and Playa Maderas hold small eco-lodges and treehouse-style cabins in dry forest, a short walk or drive from the sand. Farther north on Playa Ocotal, Morgan's Rock is a long-established eco-lodge with bungalows on a ridge above its own beach.
South of town, Playa Remanso and Playa Hermosa have a handful of surf lodges and private villas. About an hour north along the coast near Tola, Rancho Santana is a large resort community with several beaches, a hotel and rental homes.
The hills directly above the bay hold rental villas with views over the harbor. Wherever you stay, ask about backup water and power, since outages happen.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a sunset sail. Catamarans leave the bay in the afternoon, anchor off a southern cove for swimming and snorkeling and motor back as the sky turns orange behind the headlands.
Walk or drive up to the Christ of the Mercy statue on the north end of the bay. The climb takes about 20 minutes from town and the view covers the whole harbor.
Take a surf lesson together. Playa Hermosa and Playa Remanso have gentle beach breaks for beginners, while Playa Maderas suits those with some experience. Lessons usually include boards and transport.
Visit La Flor Wildlife Refuge with a guide at night during nesting season. Seeing hundreds of turtles crawl up the beach is unlike anything else on the coast.
Ride horses along the sand at low tide, or rent a boat with a captain to reach beaches that have no road access.
Getting There and Around
Most couples fly into Managua's Augusto C. Sandino International Airport, which has nonstops from Miami and Houston. San Juan del Sur is about 87 miles south and the drive takes around two and a half hours. Arrange a private transfer through your lodge rather than taking buses with luggage.
Some visitors fly into Liberia in Costa Rica and cross the land border at Peñas Blancas, about 30 to 40 minutes from town. It is closer to many US gateways, but the border crossing can take hours and Nicaragua has turned back some US citizens, so allow extra time.
Locally, beach shuttles run from town to Maderas and Hermosa a few times a day. Taxis are cheap but negotiate before you get in. Many lodges rent four-wheel-drive vehicles, which you will want in the rainy season. Avoid driving rural roads after dark and never leave valuables visible in a parked car.
Food and Drink
Fish is the reason to eat out. Waterfront restaurants on the bay serve whole fried snapper, garlic shrimp and lobster when it is in season, along with ceviche made from the morning catch. Prices are modest by US standards.
For breakfast, the stalls around the town market serve gallo pinto with eggs, fried cheese and sweet plantains. Try a nacatamal, a large banana-leaf tamale stuffed with pork and rice, usually sold on weekends. Quesillo, a tortilla wrapped around soft cheese and pickled onions, makes a good road snack.
Nicaragua's Flor de Caña rum is the national drink. Order it neat as a sipping rum or in a macuá, the official cocktail made with guava and citrus juice. Toña and Victoria are the local beers. Several lodges north of town have restaurants with sunset views that are worth booking even if you are staying elsewhere.
Honeymoon Tips
Keep a low profile on politics. Do not post opinions about the Nicaraguan government while you are in the country and avoid photographing police or official buildings. Leave the drone at home, since drones are illegal.
Buy travel insurance that includes medical evacuation. Clinics in town handle minor problems, but anything serious means a long drive to Managua or a flight out.
Bring US dollars in small bills. Many lodges price in dollars, while smaller shops and taxis prefer córdobas. ATMs in town sometimes run out of cash on busy weekends.
Respect the ocean. Rip currents are common at the open beaches. Only some have lifeguards. Ask locally where it is safe to swim.
Pack a light layer for the windy dry-season evenings and strong insect repellent for the wet months, when mosquitoes and dengue are more active. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Nicaragua.
At night, take a taxi between town and the beaches rather than walking unlit dirt roads.