The Kandy House is the place to stay in Kandy if you want old Ceylon rather than a business hotel. It is a manor house built in 1804 for Ratwatte Adigar, a chief minister of the Kandyan kingdom. It now holds just nine rooms around an open courtyard. A pool sits deep in the garden overlooking rice paddies. The temple town is about 20 minutes away by car, close enough for the Temple of the Tooth in the morning and far enough that the evenings belong to frogs, fireflies and the two of you.
It suits couples who like character over gadgets. There are no televisions in the rooms, Wi-Fi is limited to the public areas in some reports and a couple of rooms rely on ceiling fans rather than air conditioning. In exchange you get four-poster beds, claw-foot tubs, antique furniture and staff who know how you take your tea by the second morning. The Michelin Guide lists it. It has also long been one of the most requested stops on Sri Lanka honeymoon itineraries. Children under 12 are not accepted, which keeps the mood quiet. Expect a bed-and-breakfast rate in the upper-midrange, with dinner well worth adding.
Highlights at a glance
- Manor house built in 1804 for a Kandyan chief minister
- Only nine rooms, each named after a Sri Lankan butterfly
- Garden pool overlooking rice paddies
- Daily-changing dinners using produce from the Kandy market
- Ayurvedic massages in an open-sided pavilion
Why Couples Love The Kandy House
Most Kandy hotels are either on busy roads in town or are big resort blocks on the ridges. The Kandy House is neither. It is a family walauwa, a Kandyan manor, whose builder used roof tiles normally reserved for royal residences. The house opened as a hotel in 2005 and was one of the first upscale boutique stays in Sri Lanka's interior.
What couples remember is the atmosphere after dark. Fairy lights come on in the garden, the courtyard glows and dinner is served on a terrace looking over the croquet lawn. With only nine rooms there is rarely more than a handful of other guests. The staff are good at reading whether you want to chat or be left alone.
Mornings start slowly with breakfast by the pool while water buffalo graze in the fields below. It is a calm counterweight to the crowds of central Kandy and the long drives of a typical Sri Lanka loop.
Which Room to Book
All nine rooms are individually decorated and named after Sri Lankan butterflies, with names such as Indian Admiral and Black Rajah. There are two categories.
- Ultra Rooms are the larger four and open onto the veranda, with chaise longues and rocking chairs outside your door. These are the honeymoon pick: more space, more light and a private corner of the veranda for evening drinks.
- Deluxe Rooms are slightly smaller but still have high ceilings, four-poster beds with mosquito nets and wood or stone floors.
Most bathrooms have a tub plus a large open shower. Two rooms rely on ceiling fans rather than air conditioning, so if you sleep hot, ask for an air-conditioned room when you book. Rooms are deliberately low-tech: no television and no minibar. Bring a book and a downloaded playlist rather than counting on streaming.
Food, Drink and the Spa
Food is a highlight. Much of the produce is bought daily at the Kandy market. Breakfast mixes fresh fruit, smoothies and eggs with Sri Lankan dishes such as egg hoppers, roti, sambal and dhal; some local dishes need ordering the night before, so ask at dinner.
Lunch is served by the pool or on the veranda. Dinner is a set menu of Sri Lankan and international dishes that changes daily. You can eat on the restaurant terrace, on a private terrace or poolside. The kitchen has also been known for generous rice-and-curry spreads with many small dishes. Before dinner, the Butterfly Bar mixes cocktails built on local arrack.
Wellness is low-key rather than a full spa complex. Ayurvedic massages and yoga take place in an ambalama, a traditional open-sided pavilion, looking out over the paddy fields. Book a massage for late afternoon, when the heat drops and the birds get loud.
Why guests fall for it
Things to Do Around Kandy
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is the reason most people come to Kandy. Go for an evening puja, when drums sound and the crowds of pilgrims carry lotus flowers. Both of you will need covered shoulders and knees. You will leave your shoes at the entrance.
The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya make an easy half day, with avenues of palms and a huge Javan fig tree. Closer to home, Degaldoruwa Raja Maha Viharaya, an 18th-century cave temple with painted walls, is about a 20-minute walk from the hotel. The staff can set you up with bicycles for village lanes or point you toward a round of golf for whoever wants one.
If you visit in July or August, ask about the Esala Perahera, Kandy's great procession of elephants and dancers. Hotels fill quickly then, so book well ahead. Kandy is also the classic starting point for the scenic train ride toward Nuwara Eliya and Ella.
Getting There
International flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) near Colombo. The drive to Gunnepana takes roughly three to three and a half hours depending on traffic. Most couples arrange a private car and driver for the whole trip. The hotel can help organize transfers.
The house sits on a quiet village lane in the hills, about 20 minutes from central Kandy. That is the trade-off: you will not stroll into town for dinner. Tuk-tuks and taxis can be arranged by the staff. They are the easiest way to reach the temple and the lake. After dark, use a car the hotel books rather than flagging one down.
The Kandy House fits well after a few days in the Cultural Triangle at Sigiriya or Dambulla, which is about two to three hours north, or before the tea country and the beaches of the south coast.
Is It Worth It?
For most honeymooners on a Sri Lanka loop, yes. Two or three nights here give you a real sense of the island's history without sacrificing comfort. The price is far lower than at the big-name resorts on the coast. Rates are usually quoted on a bed-and-breakfast basis; plan to eat most dinners in, since the food is good and the drive into town is a nuisance at night.
Pick somewhere else if you need modern conveniences. A design-led wellness resort such as Santani, about an hour away, has more structure and a bigger spa. Larger hotels in Kandy have gyms, in-room TV and reliable Wi-Fi in every room. Also skip it if you hate insects: this is a garden house at the edge of jungle, so expect the odd gecko and plenty of mosquitoes at dusk. Bring repellent. Dengue occurs in Sri Lanka. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you go.
Insider tips
- Request an Ultra Room for the larger space and your own spot on the veranda.
- Order Sri Lankan breakfast dishes like egg hoppers the evening before.
- Ask for an air-conditioned room if you sleep hot, since two rooms only have ceiling fans.
- Walk to Degaldoruwa cave temple early in the morning before the heat builds.
